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Lower Tensioner Arms = Lower Control Arms?
Hello,
My 07 3.0 has been having a bad vibration when I apply the brakes. It actually makes the steering wheel vibrate from left to right very fast. I though it might be that my rotors are warped. I took it into a brake shop to have them take a look at it. They told me that the brakes are fine. The problem is that both lower tensioner arms need replacing. I have been looking all day for a lower tensioner arm for the X5 but can only find a lower control arm...and that this is a common problem with the X5. Can anyone confirm that these are the same thing? Anyone else have a problem with their lower control arms? Any help is appreciated! J |
realoem.com is your friend
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Did that, looks like there are wishbones and tension struts. I will purchase the tension strut, thanks
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Common problem in E39 and other cars as well. Easy DIY.
Just FYI- sometimes you can replace the bushings and not the whole arm. I usually only do the bushes once, then the next time replace the whole arm. Big $avings A |
I found some on Ebay for a very good price. Anyone have any good experience with such parts from ebay? The seller tells me that the parts are OEM replacements, made in Germany.
Also, From what I have researched, all I need to do is raise the front and basically remove and replace the parts. It looks like this part is not supporting any parts of the suspension. So I don't need to jack up the suspension....True? Thanks! |
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You are probably not getting OE BMW parts. I do not know which manufacturer is the OE MANUFACTURER for the BMW OE parts- maybe Lemdorfer? In my experience, some are good- and some are junk. But this is E39 experience, none with X70s. A |
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HAHAHAHA.
I'm flying to Dusseldorf next week and had 'dorf on the brain'. ;) |
No CPO. Just me my hands and my tools.
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Here: Frnt axle support,wishbone/tension strut. Fits: 2007 BMW X Series (E53,E70,E71,E83) X5 3.0i | BMW of South Atlanta You can see the whole part (arm + bushing) is sold $$$ but you can also just buy the bushing (item 7, 11) for about $40-50. OE BMW too. As I wrote, a good practice is to replace the bushing only once, the next time replace the whole arm. Just FYI A |
Looks like there are combination nuts on the ends. Do you guys know where to get inexpensive sockets for these things?
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whats a "combination nut"????? Picture?
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Ard? Do you have these combination nuts on your x5?
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Oh. Looks they require an allen wrench?
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You need an allen to hold that 'stud' whilst you turn the nut with a box wrench....remember that 'stud' is attached to a ball that will freely rotate in the ball joint.
DO NOT attempt to use the allen to turn the stud and unscrew- it is only to stabilze the stud. If you try and break it free using the allen in the stud you can blow it out and wind up grinding parts! You must break it free using the force on the big nut. |
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Thanks for the advice guys. I am replacing the whole unit. Ball joints and all. Would you happen to know the torque setting to use on that nut when tightening?
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Havent looked...mine is a 2012, so probably another 40k before I need to.
A |
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I believe the Bentley manual would have the torque spec.
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I don't think there is a manual out yet for the e70
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^^ do keep in mind that BMW makes the whole arm, and SOMETIMES just the bushing that gets worn.... I recommend replacing the bushing once, then the next time the whole arm- just becuse I only like pressing them out once as it does stress the arm a bit.
(If I posted this above, apologies...cannot see on this appliance) |
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Hello Jarola, what is the milage on your vehicle please?
It seems quite odd to this reader that BMW vehicles in the 50,000 - 60,000 mile range need replacements on silent block rubber bushing. My 08 3.0 X5 is displaying some of the symptoms discussed here, and this thread certainly has caught my interest. Ciao, Dick |
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When my bushings were replaced under CPO, I had about 54,000 miles on the clock. BMW replaced them without telling/asking me. They said they needed replacing. Just a data point. Jeremy |
Thrust arm bushings on MANY modern suspensions are subject to massive forces- the need for compliant ride coupled with demands for precise steering, means that this component will take a pounding. 50k-75k is not unusual. I've replaced these on my Infinti, MDX, E39M5....
Interestingly, often times they do not exhibit overt symptoms...just a gradual reduction in qualitative road feel, maybe more road noise/harshness. Replace them and you go "wow, this feels great". The other issue is that an undercar inspection will not diagnose these as 'obviously failed'...I cannot tell you how many times people will say "my mechanic said they are fine", yet when replaced they report success. A |
Parts clarification needed
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Thanks Ard, your comments are appreciated.
In an effort to gain a better understanding of the parts typically replaced, the image below is cut from BMW's workshop manual for the E70. Are we talking about replacing the silent blocks in item #4 (Tension strut) or item # 12 (lower control arm) or both? I occasionally experience a slight judder at speeds between 60 and 35 mph, and unlike my past experiences with worn rotors and brake judder, I cannot consistently replicate the judder at present. My vehicle is an 08, 3.0 SI with 54K miles and had new OEM rotors and EBC 'RedStuff' pads installed @ 48K. Rotors were checked for run-out upon installation, were recently measured with known quality digital gauges indicate TIR (total indicated run-out) <0.0005" and thickness variation measured in 8 places < 0.0002" Up until reading this thread on bushing replacement, my suspicions have pointed to the after-market brake pads. Now I'm in a quandary. The only other info I can add: if I sit with engine idling, stationary on dry pavement and very gently rotate the steering wheel 2-3 degrees CW and immediately reverse 2-3 degrees CCW, I sense a free "zone" or light steering pressure "zone" as if there is some play in the steering mechanism that must be taken up before the tyres are moved. Quickly oscillating the steering wheel a few degrees CW/CCW does NOT produce any sounds. Upon driving, I do not sense any wandering while driving on smooth pavement, and steering outputs are precise and exactly to the degree expected. Experienced observations would be appreciated Ciao, Dick |
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J |
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I replaced item #4 last week (complete arm with bushing), at about 69K miles on my '08 4.8i. About $400 in parts and $200 in labor to install.
Huge difference! Feels like new. I have these used thrust arms available if anybody is interested. |
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Kudos for tackling the thrust arms- easy job, big results usually |
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