NEED ADVICE ON TIRES REPLACEMENT QUICK.
 

I brought my truck in for a recall and other service done at the dealer. When i picked up i discovered that they have damaged one of my front tire and rim. Came back spoke to service manager and he agreed to replace new tire and fix the rim. It is 2008 X5 with 20' staggered, and about 40% left on them. So, my question is if i replace one new tire, will it affect the handling, or will cause damage to awd system? As a matter of fact, does BMW even recommended for doing this. I asked the service director this question, he said not sure, he will contact BMW technical support and get back to me. Any info is appreciated.

Not an expert, but if it were mine I would have the dlr do the tire replace/rim repair, (hopefully the rim job is cosmetic not dented/bent), and hit my local tire store to have the other front tire replaced with like and kind. A couple days/few miles should not affect the drive, et al, imo. But, I would not drive hundreds of miles or weeks.

Your rears may be worn too, and you will get some opins that rec'd all new rubber all around...my opin is that is a very expensive fix to 'let us make all the tires exactly the same rolling diameter', but they aren't, even with new rubber, imo.

And, your "40 %" is a real SWAG, but without using a real tire tread depth gauge on the existing tire vs a new same brand tire, none of us can know the real diff.
GL, mD

PS: maybe that guilty dlr can give you a really good price for the other front tire, while you are there. As for the service 'advisor' playing dumb, or not knowing, typical of the BMW dlr bs, imo.

I did tell him i would not want a new tire. The wheel is only scratched, no bend/dented. I am going to ash him his cost to replace the tire, if he is going to low ball me then i'll use that number against him for another tire, if high ball then i'll ask to get credit and take care of it myself. Michelin M+S $1,500 for 4's. I know the rim cost $150 to fix, maybe i ask for credit too.

If a tire is past 50% worn it is a good idea not to mix them. You aren't just worried about side to side on the same axle, but about front/rear too, since that affects the transfer case. Since you need only one, the smartest thing would be to have the new tire shaved down to 50% tread depth. Dealer won't be able to do that, but a good tire store can.

Here is the same set I put on mine on eBay - I love these tires! Free shipping - ($975.00 after rebate).

Vredestein Sessanta Rear - 315/35/20 & Front - 275/40/20

Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta

I've read that with BMW awd systems, it's not a good idea to mix/match different tread depth tires. It could be a conspiracy, but it makes sense to me. As JCL mentioned, it could affect the transfer case.

anybody have a solid review on these tires? tread life? in the rain? in the dry?

These are OEM BMW sizes

There are tons of very favorable reviews on the Sessantas. Search On this forum or just use Google or go to YouTube

i picked up an aluminum rod in my rear right tire on my 4.6is, while in San Jose, Costa Rica. The tires were relatively old, i had them on for a while at that time... the puncture was from the bottom/driving surface to the side wall - the Al rod poked two hole in one shot...

I needed just one tire, but the dealer in SJ (Only BMW dealer for the entire country!!) refused to sell me only one tire and sold me two tires for the rear, for an equivalent of about US$1000 - and there were no other vendor in the country that had that tire in that size (20" staggered factory setup).

On a separate incident, i blew a rear left tire on the same car flying through desserted areas of Panama, not too far from David, on the PanAmerican highway... When I made it to the Panama City, I was able to find a local tire store (part of international chain) that carried my brand and my size tire - i was able to buy just one tire and the whole thing cost me about $250-300 installed, out the door...

Me too, i agree. I read it from Car and Driver and Tire rack articles. I think i'll go with one new shaved to the same tread depth. But, i am still waiting from BMW technical support.

Perhaps you don't understand what I'm saying. There have been reports that even a 1/8 inch of tread difference between tires causes the transfer case and/or differentials to wear prematurely due to the wheels rotating at slightly different speeds.

Today they call and tell me that according to BMW technical support it is ok to have one new tire replace without any affect to the AWD system (transfer case). I cited articles from Car and Driver and Tire rack say otherwise. They insist to replace new tire, no shaving. I said to them i only agree to if they have confirmation document from BMW's, otherwise, i need them to do the tire shaving. Waiting for final decision.

You cannot "repair" the damaged rim to 'factory' standards unless you refinish the entire rim.

The $150 repair is NOT the same as an undamaged wheel.

Dealer must be thanking his lucky stars you dont know that!

Make them replace the rim.

This is internet rumor.

You need much more difference than a worn tire will give you...

Car and driver and tirerack are in this to sell tires...

Do the math yourself..... i wrote this up somewhere, but the 'mis-match' in rotational speed is actually small.

My wife's friend once bought 4 new tires when the tire store convinced her that 'replacing only that one tire' would damage her MDXs AWD system. Tires were over 60%.

A

Rims are one issue, I won't comment on that.

Tires.

1) For any car, same type (brand & model) and size of tire on the same axle

2) Balance of wear (used on one wheel and new on the other) is a safety, handling and (potentially) alignment issue. Take the good tire from that axle and use as your spare tire. Then put a pair of new tires on that axle (rim with bad tire and your current spare tire rim). Remember, tires age - so having a less old spare tire might save you some day :)

3) When you but ONLY a pair of new tires, ALWAYS put them on the rear axle - regardless of RWD, FWD or 4WD. Some people believe it's up front, which is 100% wrong and VERY unsafe.

There is an excellent skid pan video on the Michelin USA web site to show you WHY.

4) For a 4WD vehicle, European (and good practice) safety and TUV requires the same type (brand and model) tire on the front & rear of the car.


Best regards

So I hit a piece of metal and destroy on tire... Needs to be replaced.

Existing tires at 60%.... Unsafe to replace just one?

How about 80%? Still unsafe?

90% unsafe?

98%. Unsafe?

While a brand new tire will need some miles to run in, my question is focussed on the 'unsafe' aspect of the not new tires in this equation...

A

Ps.
(Btw, three of my cars have no spares ;)... But I do store extra tires in the shop. )

The dealer could not come up with any info from BMW NA to prove one way or the other. They won't do any shaving but, they agree to pay the total cost for all that from Tire rack. I just had the rim perfectly re polish, cost me $150, and i did not want to push it. I think i'll take the money and replacing both.

Gregory 891
Mine are staggered, so it's only goes on the front.

Good idea to replace both, which is what I was politely suggesting you do. One other element I neglected to add to the "tire talk" points is AGE of tires. It's rubber and it ages.

A pair of new tires is a good idea. If you the staggered (likely the 19") set-up, then keep the still good front tire for a spare or make a very nice tire swing out of it.

Remember that we & you drive an X5, not a Yugo or a Lada.

Remember that for ANY car, the three elements that have a significant impact on your safety are visibility, adhesion and braking.

Don't go cheap on wipers.
Don't wait on tires, your whole life is on a contact patch the size of a sheet or two of paper.
Make sure your brakes are good and flush fluid at least every two years (annual is even better).

^^ It seems that ill informed and wealthy consumers are increasingly being manipulated by the "better to be safe"...be it Mercedes with their lane departure warning TV spots, or posters saying 'you drive a BMW, better to just replace the tires', or the BMW dealer saying "we dont patch flats as the tire manufacturer has instructed, we replace the tire"

It seems the more affluent americans become the more money they will dump into this 'safety pit'...no rational analysis, simply 'if it is safe I'll buy it'. Or worse, being 'guilt tripped' into "saving money if you drive a BMW is beneath you..."

What I was trying to illustrate is that at some percentage, it is stupid to replace tires as pairs- be that 50% or 99.99%... for me the critical issue is WHAT makes it unsafe, so **I** can make an informed decision. Has nothing to do with BMW or Yugo...(actually, I'd say given the crash ratings, it is more important to have perfect tires in the Yugo!)

Simple comments on tires.

Typical new tires will have tread depth of 7 to 8 mm (10/32" to 11/32"), but look at the specific ones you have bought.

Wear bars will show the legal limit of 1.6 mm (2/32"), which is the same standard in Europe as most US states and Canadian provinces. They would still be adequate for dry autocrossing or short track day use.

Rubber will also age, so there are considerations of age (regardless of wear). Mfr's say seven to eight years, if they aren't cracked you likely can judge keeping them longer.

Specific hot climate countries (UAE, Saudi Arabia, etc.) strictly enforce the age due to severe temperatures - typically four or 5 years. Consider this if you live in similar hot places: Arizona, Nevada, Texas, etc.

Snow tires are more sensitive to temperature, so the age criteria is more important. Legal limit on snow tires will vary more from country to country, the minimum level is typically 3 to 4 mm.

So for a summer tire, if you consider 7 mm (10/32") to be 100% and 1.6 mm (2/32") at 20%, you have your rough answer. Measure your depth with a simple gauge on several places to have a good average, as well as checking all tires.

English translation from Continental's advice: "check tire pressure at least every month, replace standard tires at 2 mm depth, wide tires at 3 mm and snow tires at 4 mm". It is also suggesting using your tires to (nearly) the legal limit, but don't quite wait to the end (it lengthens your stopping distance). The wide tire issue is logical, as you need groove depth to evacuate water then driving in rain.

You will find similar advice from most tire mfrs and car mfrs. as well. I don't work for tire or car company, and I will be replacing my (17") X5 tires this summer (they are in the 1.6 to 2.0 mm range).

Not all that.... had them before , tires are great grips on wet and dry very smooth ride too, but the tread wear are terrible .... 10-12k miles about it.