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E70 hitch/ harness install / programming question
So my 2012 X5 50i is a lease and i dont want to cut the bumper trim. So I decided to get aftermarket one that tucks under the trunk. I still need to trim on the bottom but at least it is not completely trimmed.
I decided on OEM Harness 71-60-2-156-526 - about $200.18 from tisher bmw. and I just ordered Tekonsha 90250 Prodigy RF Electronic Brake Control Now, about programming - is it completely necessary? Some dealers want $500 for programming, some want $280, some wont touch it since I will install the harness. Ill be towing 5000# open trailer with a race car. trailer will have dual electric brakes on both axels. Some people tell me the car will be fine without all those fancy stability control programming. I personally dont need rear view camera option for towing or my PDC beeping wont bother me (ill just turn it off). Without programming, will i get power to the harness for signal and brake lights? Brake controller I got seemed to work by plugging in trailer harness to brake controller, then from brake controoler, it plugs into T1 7 pinn connector of the car. No other wires needed. It is calibrated by RF signal from the front with a remote. I live in socal.. any dealer experience with regards to programming? My distance of travel will be as much as 500 miles one day to race track but typically 300-400 mile round trip to Buttonwillow/Willowsprings. Thanks guys |
You will get lights out messages when you plug in the trailer harness, and the trailer lights may not work.
Get the programming done. If you are towing 5k LBS, then you want everything to work correctly. The reason the programming takes so long is the dealer updates the software in every module in your car before they add +AHMU to your vehicle order. One of the independent coders can do it for you at a much more reasonable rate. |
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Off topic... You are going to love the X5 as a tow rig. I haul my 328 to the track on a featherlite dual axle with electric brakes. It tows as good or better than my F150 did.
Bill |
Featherlite is so much lighter than my steel junk trailer. Did you have dealer do all the install and programming? WHat brake controller are you using?
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I just had the programing done. I used:
TRIPL3_O Coding (585) 496-4648 https://www.facebook.com/Tripl3OCoding TRIPL3_O Coding - YouTube Twitter: @TRIPL3_OCoding He is on the forums. Give him a call. He was outstanding. He can code the car remotely for you as well. He can also change lots of other things. He was great, honest and much less costly than the dealer. I reccommend him highly. |
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thanks guys. Ill try to reach out to him regarding this. Any socal local coding guys?
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I installed Draw Tite hitch over the weekend.
Hardest part was taking the bumper off. Other than that.. very straight forward. Having a impact gun helped so much to bolt in 8 of those nuts holding the hitch. Then I got my trusty Snap on torque wrench and torqued to 65#ft spec. My dog got bored and started to fall asleep while I was sweating =) I have 2012 50i - one thing that was interesting was NO CUTTING of anything. I just removed the bottom sliver plastic trim.. the bumper was already pre shaped for tow hitch. If i had gotten OEM hitch, I think i still would have cut through all the way. But my OEM bumper had bottom back portion already pre cut from factory. :dunno: I will run OEM wires this week (ordered for $200 from online) and program with local coding guy. I was going to go aftermarket with modulite + universal 7 pin adapter ($80) but since i found a local coding guy, i rather have oem features. No need to go to dealer =) As far as 7 pin T One connector, i bought a plate adaptor and my trailer shop will weld on to the hitch (left of it) so it looks like OEM one. I also need to flip the ball mount as I will need a 3/4 inch riser. Once I get everything installed, i will take a picture of my open car trailer. From reading what people are towing, I think pulling 4500-5000# is no issue. |
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