By coding I meant registration and initialization. I don't think the small difference you reference is important. I think the important coding change that is required is if you switch from an AGM to a non-AGM battery, or vice versa. But I think the initialization is important regardless. I should have been more precise in my choice of words.

Here is a shot of the BMW DIS info from the web. I haven't done this step but others here will have.

I did my brakes with Centric rotors and Akebono pads from rockauto, I use the Centric rotors on all my brake jobs and really like them, the Akebono ceramic pads suck hard for the first 1000km and now they are nice and zero dust but squeak when cold.

@JCL, Conedoctor, Thank you so much for the info.
I'll go ahead and get the duralast and INPA, and get it done with it.
Thank you!

And don't forget to bleed/flush the system.

Not essential with a pad and rotor change... And can be done separately.

Agreed. But the real question is, has it been done in the last 24 months or so.

You are getting great advice from all the other members, I did the battery registration on my 2008 X5 4.8i both with INPA and ISIS. (ICOM), in my experienced INPA displays battery registration but when checked with ISIS IT WAS NOT, it showed the batterie was replaced at 000km which was in the factory, after registration with ISIS (ICOM) it shows it at the mileage of my car but in KM, as said by other members it is very important to register your battery if you want it to last and be charged correctly, that way you don't have any problems with your car that a bad battery causes.


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Yeah, I just didnt want the OP to get overwhelmed thinking it was overly complex. Definitely need to see if brake fluid has been serviced, and if needed, get it done....

:thumbup:

I'm pretty much in the same boat. Needing brakes and a battery in an 08 3.0si.

I just had my battery replaced. Not too bad. Was around $350 out the door for an Intersate OEM equivalent with coding at my independent. I was almost going to do it myself and for-go the coding like you were thinking, but I've read so many battery drain issues on this board. Figured it was worth just getting it done.

And i wished the e70 dealer prices were going down. I called both my local dealers to get quotes for front and rear rotors and pads....$1520, and wait for it....$2000!!! lol

Like you I'm pretty handy and have lots of tools, but just have never done brakes. Looks like OE parts are around $800 online for all four corners, so it's worth the savings to do it myself. I've read up on here and it's seems pretty straighforward. Only thing I can't seem to find out is whether or not the parking brake complicates the rear rotor change out?

Which pads did you end up going with?

Hey, I still haven't done any of the jobs, so I can't really help you at this point.

I checked with another Indy, and he told me I could wait for the brake pads change. They can still take a few thousands miles more.

For the battery, I'm just checking it with a D-CAN cable and INPA weekly since as soon as the weather warmed up, the battery problem had gone away. I'm wondering if I can hang on to this for another six months before the winter comes.

If you look back at some of the replies written by the helpful members here, you can see which rotors and pads are recommended. Hopefully, that could give you an idea what to buy.