Any DIY to replace Solar Censor on E70
 

Solar Sensor is behind the Rear view mirror. I was told that my Solar Sensor might be Bad and causing the AUX Cooling FAN to run all the time when AC is ON. Thats the FAN sitting behind the Radiator in the front of the Car.

part # 61359214977

The rear view mirror clam shell is held on by a few clips. It very easy to pry open and I was actually able to split it with my hand. But to be safe use a plastic trim tool and insert it right in the middle and give it a very gentle nudge and it will start to snap apart. I think the solar sensor is bonded to the windshield so you might need to take a razor blade to remove the harden glue. Just replace with new part. Please do a follow up write up once you have done this as I've only replace the Cond. sensor.

is that the big round on or the smaller one underneath?

its the Big round with metal clips on it.

OK.

Some instructions

- move your rear view mirror up and out of the way (as much as you can)
- split the windshield mount in two halfs (you can try a finger nail or a plastic panel removing tool)
- disconnect electrical connector from the sensor

this is where it gets deep. I would suggest you split the new sensor into two halfs. The glue and front part and electronics back half. You will notice how the two parts are connected. I would do this as I found it very difficult to pull my old sensor off the windshield. (In my case I used needle nose pliers and pulled a little at each time. It took me a good 10 minutes)

on the new sensor
- separate front from back of the senor

on mounted old sensor
- pull two metal tabs outwards (to release from windshield mount)
- using thin screwdriver separate two parts of the sensor leaving the glued part attached to the windshield
- align and snap the new electronics part to the window mounted half
- connect connector
- reinstall two half left and right side of the mirror post

IMPORTANT
- at no time do you want to exert outwards pressure on the windshield that is of great force. You make a spider web crack: you gonna have a bad day. :bustingup

Good luck and let me know in case I was not clear in my description.

So you left the glued part on the windshield and attach the electronic part to the old glued part correct. Does metal plates hold the sensor to the windshield or just the electronic part..

why you change your sensor and did you need to clear the codes later .. ??

Thanks for the info..

Do not remove the glued the part, it is just plastic piece. Just remove the electronic part and replace it with the new one. The part number you referred above is just the electronic part. If you want to remove the glued part, you have to replace the whole windshield, because it is almost impossible to re-attach the plastic piece back to the windshiled and you will damage the plastic piece when you are removing it. There is no replacement for the plastic piece, only the whole windshield.

like "rogerkiu" said; to remove the plastic half glued to the windshield, it will become damaged beyond use.
The two halfs.
Once you half the halfs separated you will notice that the one that attaches to the windshield is basically plastic with glue on one side (the glue is of a like solid silicone consistency)
The other half will have the electronics and metal clip attached to back of it.
When installing make sure the two plastic parts clip back together.
The metal clip will then hold clipped plastic assembly to the window mounted trim.
Make sure everything is aligned as you are installing things.

Wait.

Most AC systems will run that fan whenever the AC is on.

Dont go chasing after a solar sensor just becuase someone TOLD you.

Get a real DIAGNOSIS.

Correct!
Just to clarify that in a modern car the AC compressor and fan are controlled by the engine control unit.Ac compressors are variable displacement,not just ON/OFF.The fan speed and compressor load are requested by the AC control unit.The fan will be on only after pressure is built into the condenser,not just when the AC compressor is turned on.

The FAN is running like a Rocket engine, Never run like that before or even hardly run.
They saw codes thrown from solar sensor and they pretty sure its the SSensor.
So may be the ECU getting input from a Bad Solar Sensor to Run the Fan at Max High ??

What is With the CaPiTaLiZaTiOns???

What "codes"? Who are "they"? and if "they" are wrong will "they" be paying for the solar sensor?

I think you are barking up the wrong tree: http://www.motor-talk.de/forum/aktio...hmentId=701292

The solar sensor does NOT control the fan speed. It is a small component of the overall fan control. IMO

The fan has it's own control module that controls the speed of the fan depending on the value(voltage) send by the ECU.The fan will run on full speed in ONLY 2 occasions:
-ECU has a fault code related to cooling,engine or transmission safe(limp) mode activated
-communication between the fan and the ECU is lost(usually bad or dead ECU)
Even if you remove the solar sensor and everything else is Ok ,the fa will not run at full speed.

"they" means the indy shop who specialize in BMW repairs, they have all the eqp and SW to troubleshoot BMW. I have used them in the past and they were very reliable so far with their diagnosis with my other problems in last 4 yrs . They saw codes thrown from the solar sensor " I did not ask them what were the code # and they did not tell me either" . Indy shop think its due to solar sensor that aux fan keep running high. ( my personal logic is they are wrong and after reading everything about the solar sensor its hard to believe that can control the aux fan speed. I dont believe they will pay for the sensor if that didnt fix the issue, I did ask them and they told me they are very confident thats the issue. They asking me ~$400 for the complete job part + labor. Part is ~$212 plus tax from the Dealer rest is 1.5 hr labor and they will warranty the work. If i do myself I can get the same part for ~$150 from 2 Dealers in USA with no Tax. If its just popping the sensor out it wont take me more then 20 min to finish the job.

But I am still not convince this will fix the issue and so still reluctant to buy the part.
I was thinking to remove the sensor and see if fan stop running that might be a clue if sensor sending some wrong signal to the IHKA.

I agree dosent seems like solar sensor is causing it.. The SAV is running good, cooling is good, no lights for engine heating, not going in any limp mode, 40+ speed I dont hear the Fan and car runs very smooth with all its V8 power. It has 4 zone climate control system..

I remove the DC power to the Solar sensor but the aux fan still keep running. not sure if that proves that its not the solar sensor or i need to reset the fault codes which i have no way to do it.

Is this could be the real culprit.
Pressure Sensor via Junction Box
The refrigerant pressure input signal is a direct junction box input signal and is relayed to
the IHKA via the K-CAN. The IHKA requests actuation of the auxiliary blower by the DME
(ECM) depending on the refrigerant pressure.
The IHKA determines the relevant A/C compressor load torque on the basis of the input
signals from the pressure sensor and the compressor speed. The DME (ECM) control
units are notified of the load torques by the IHKA and used by the DME (ECM) as input
variables for actuating the electric fan.

You dont want to listen what people tell you,but you fully trust the shop that did the diagnostic.There may be many reasons for the fan running at full speed and without diagnostic you will go nowhere.The shop was supposed to run "actual values" and "actuations" for the ECU and AAC to figure out what is requesting the fan and why.

I would rather sell or trade in this car then take to a Stealership. The Indy Shop is acting like a Stealership too and I lost trust in them also. For Last 6 yrs If I start adding my Invoices for all the Warranty, CPO and maintenance work done on this car it easily crosses $12k. I think I will keep driving with the Fan running we dont drive more then 500 miles per month and will trade in for a new leased SUV by next Spring. No more owning the cars better to lease for 3 yrs and dont worry about any issues.

I had an X3 leased for 3 yrs 2005-2007 it only went to dealer shop 3 times to get the schedule Oil Change nothing else, then I decided to buy X5 in 2007 to replace the X3 and drop $83k on this piece of Junk made in NC. X3 I believe was made in Austria.

Also had a 2007 335i sport made in Austria too. Put 110k miles on it and only issue was the Twin Turbo and HPFP which were replaced under warranty around 60k. Great car no other issues except regular maintenance . Decided to trade in for another car since don't want to take chances after 110k.

You folks were all Great with your suggestions thanks for your Help.

It takes 30 minutes to a skilled person with DIS/ISTA to diagnose the problem with the fan.I am sure there are more than few of those people in your area that do what I do(mobile diagnostics and repair,no overhead expenses to cover)or even at least one shop with a knowledgeable and honest people.There may be a more serious problem with the drivetrain and the fan only the telltale sign not the problem itself.
There is definitely a difference between the cars built in the US and Germany,but also '07 could be the worst year for having E70.

I had to replace the clear rubber from under the solar/rain sensor, you don't have to replace the entire windshield as mention, this sensor is for your auto headlight and sensing rain for your wipers to work on auto. Ista/Isis can check to see if it functions properly before changing it out.

Sorry to read where this is at- your frustrations and just letting it go.

Maybe try and find a fellow enthusiast in your area who would hook it up and run some diagnostics? Where are you?

Keep us posted- Im sure if bawarca was local he'd have you all diagnosed pretty easily!

One out there question...does your car have an electric water pump? A reported mode of failure is crazy fan speeds..USUALLY followed by pump failure. But not always immediate. Does your temp gauge look at all off?

Nevermind...I see you've started multiple threads...
http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...when-ac-2.html