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Andras - thanks for the comments. I have edited post #1 and added your comments about the tight reach tool not being absolutely necessary. In particular, I have since found that if the radiator fan/shroud is removed first, then there is adequate access to the air duct clamp bolts. Though I still think the tight reach ratchet is a handy tool to have on hand, you are correct that it's not totally necessary. I also added a reference about which radiator line to disconnect to minimize spilling/mess.
Appreciate the feedback - comments like these make it easier for the next person. When you say "the door of the EGR cooler was stuck," do you mean the EGR valve, rather than the EGR cooler? I assume a replacement EGR valve would be a lot less expensive than replacing the entire EGR cooler. Regardless, glad you got it straightened out! Regards. |
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Changed thermostat as part of long list of things done over past 2 weeks while on vacation.
Now seeing the temperature showing toasty 90-95C in town, up from 70-75. |
What gasket sealant should you use on the water pump and / or Tsat?
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I did not use any gasket sealant on either. The thermostat has a rubber gasket, and the water pump a metal gasket - those seemed to do the job for me. I've seen a number of people debating the pros and cons of additional gasket sealant. So some people recommend it, but I did not use any. The new thermostat comes with its rubber gasket in place. If you want to replace the metal water pump gasket (which I did), you need to order a gasket separately - it is not included with the water pump. You can check post #146 (and a few of the subsequent posts) for a discussion of torque values, and a method for removing the old water pump gasket.
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I ordered the following parts for my 2010 BMW x35d
143,000 miles I ordered the following BMW parts 11517801063 BMW water pump And 11517793796 BMW water pump gasket And 11517805811 BMW thermostat with gasket and o-rings Fcpeuro (water pump and gasket) and ECS for the thermostat had the best price shipped to my door! Almost certain I ordered the correct partS I'll have to look at the water pump gasket again as it doesn't look like metal |
The information below is from RealOEM. The link is here.
No. Description Supp. Qty From Up To Part Number Price Notes 01 Remanufactured coolant pump, mechanical 1 11517805812 $192.79 ENDED 01 Coolant pump, mechanical 1 11517801063 02 Gasket Steel 1 11517793796 $13.58 03 Torx screw with collar M7X42 4 11147792545 $0.72 04 thermostat with adapter 1 11517805811 $52.64 05 PROFILE-GASKET 1 11517787692 $6.02 06 O-ring 1 11517788984 $1.19 07 backup ring 1 11517788985 $1.61 08 Hex bolt M6X20-ZNS3 4 01/2013 07119904169 $1.25 ENDED 08 Hexagon screw with flange M6X20 4 07119905546 $6.73 09 Connector 1 11127806196 $10.41 10 PROFILE-GASKET 1 11122247745 $5.44 11 Hex bolt with washer M6X25-ZNNIV SI 3 07119905400 $0.65 Notes
So you have the proper part numbers. As shown above, part #2 is "Gasket Steel" - and I remember mine as being metal, but with a black coating on it - as shown in the pictures of diegoX's posts 156 to 161. I suspect you have the proper gasket - maybe the black coating made you think it had a plastic component? Anyway, good luck with the job! |
I got my water pump and thermostat changed for $450 by Indy. I supplied BMW on parts.
Coolant temps 88-93 celcius Mpg up from 21.5 to 23 Regenerations occurring more frequently and all is well per Carly Great thread! 145,000 miles and counting |
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EGR COOLER QUESTION
Hi guys! Maybe off topic but does anyone know if the OEM EGR Cooler I will about to purchase from the dealer has been improved by BMW? I think mine just gave out and getting inputs if there's a better after market or just stick to the OEM which doesn't last. Thanks
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