The Titan socket is awesome. And the tekton 1/2" 50-150 dual ft/lb and nm is pretty good. was able to with ease take off the regular lugs and install the locks to required number 140.

Thanks all for input :thumbup:

I use a 1/2" Snap-on Tech Wrench for wheels and other big stuff. I have a 1/4" one as well. Digital torque wrenches are very nice to use, super accurate. It's a pretty expensive option though, even second hand on eBay. For my 3/8" torque wrench, I step up to the Snap on TechAngle wrenches for the numerous one-time use bolts on BMWs. For setting up differentials, I use a Snap-on 1/4" Torq-O-Meter dial type with a telltale needle.

But the above suggestion of CDI is a very good one. Pretty sure they make many of the Snap-on torque wrenches, particularly the digital ones. Precision Instruments makes other torque wrenches for Snap-on, including the Torq-O-Meters. You can save a lot by buying directly from these manufactures as opposed to Snap-on, but you won't have a Snap-on ratchet mechanism...but you will still have a super accurate, high quality torque wrench. If you buy a used wrench that is unknown origin, pay the extra money and have it calibrated before you use it.

As far as the need for a high quality torque wrench for wheels, the wheel bolts that BMW uses are pretty robust. But I've owned cars like a G35 that had wheel studs made out of some sort of crappy alloy, that 20 ft lbs of extra torque could snap right off. I have personally driven home from a tire shop and found I had only two wheel studs left unbroken on one wheel. But wrong torque can be just as bad on a BMW. Too loose, and you could loose a wheel. Too tight, and you can warp the hub and/or rotor. If you can't find a tire shop that torques all wheels as a matter of course, then bring your own wrench with you and ask them to use it.

That's awesome information thanks, and yeah the shop(s) I've used none torque the wheels so I will be bringing my own at the very least for the locks.

Tell them to use a torque stick for 80 ft lbs, and follow up with the your torque wrench set to the correct torque (140Nm). Definitely NOT just for the wheel locks...do them all.

Thanks or the advice. Luckily I don't have to do it often just when changing for the season. Stupid question and I've seen lots of discussions but can I considering the infrequency use the torque instead of breaker?

You should not use a torque wrench to loosen lug bolts. Use a breaker bar, or air impact to remove the bolts. When re-installing, unless you have a torque stick, just use your fingers, and then the torque wrench. If you have a proper torque stick, (at somewhat lower than the proper torque to give you a margin of error,) you can safely use the air impact with torque stick to put the wheel on.

One problem with the torque stick is that while they while protect you from over torqueing, (certainly with less accuracy than a torque wrench,) they don't have the nice plastic protection of a special plastic coated wheel lug socket. You CAN actually buy what's called a "torque extension", instead of a torque stick, (far less common to see these, and I've NEVER seen a tire shop use them). With a torque extension, then you can use your nice plastic coated wheel lug socket.

As for me, I just tighten the bolts as much as I can with my fingers holding the socket, then put the socket on the torque wrench, tighten them a bit, to about 50 ft lbs or so, making sure the wheel is fully seated on the hub centering ring. Torqueing must be done with the car on the ground, so the trick is to get them all just a bit snug, then lower the car. Once the car is on the ground, torque them to spec in a star pattern. Then once more around to double check the torque.

ok thanks. i did the same bolted them in by hand then snapped the socket on and went at it with 2 passes but this go round i just did the 1 on each wheel but the car just came out of the $tealer so i imagine they did the rest properly. thanks again.

... and again after about 100 mi for complete security.

Excellent advise. The way you describe it above, is exactly how I do it.

I would like to assume that a BMW would always use a torque wrench on a wheel bolt. Do not assume the same for an independent shop.

any particular breaker bar to use (guess shouldnt matter much but dont want something snapping on me) and yeah i do not after the last experience assume anything for indy shop at least the on i was was. both location seemed to have issues taking my bolts of. coincidentally both times the car came from the dealer service a few days prior. funny though how i was able to easily remove the bolts by hand AFTER coming from the dealer and those bosoes kept having issues with the impact.