Thanks, so I checked my door jamb a while back and there's nothing in there that says this was done as the SB says there should be. I remember there being a weird bracket over there by the throttle plate, but it wasn't particularly secure, I believe just one bolt holding it to the engine and the other was to the cooler itself. When I look at image 1, it looks familiar, but when I look at image 2, it does not look familiar. I'm just going by memory and I did this work over a month ago.

As for your theory, I followed the sequence of bolt tightening as laid out earlier in this thread, so I don't know if it holds up very well. Knowing, from my reading, that this was a potential weak-spot on the car, I made very sure I followed the sequence and torque specs to the T.

edit: Mine looks just like this, just that l-shaped bracket at the bottom-right. So I have to assume the service bulletin was never done
http://www.xoutpost.com/attachments/...argeegrout.jpg

Yeah, let us know the outcome. You can check the manufacturing date of the EGR cooler on the label. It will give a clue if it was replaced.
The original EGR cooler of my X5 (2012, 28k miles) was already leaking, but the original EGR cooler from may parts car (2011, 20k miles than, 40k miles now, being exposed to a salt water :rolleyes:) is still Ok. Go figure.

I'll be dropping the car off tomorrow, not sure how much detail I'll get from the dealer on this. I went to take a very casual look this weekend (pouring rain and didn't feel like really getting dirty, anyway) using my phone camera and I just couldn't see anything obvious. I started the car up and let it idle while I listened around that area and all I can say is holy crap it was loud. It's coming from either that flange area or like the turbo. I doubt it's the turbo, but then again, would a leak in the EGR cooler really throw the engine malfunction code?

A leak or malfunction in the EGR system will throw a code for sure. The DDE has a very sophisticated sensor network and detects even a very small deviation in the EGR flow or temp.

Just got a call from the SA, cracked EGR cooler. Shocker :)

I had to give him the service bulletin number, because they quoted me over $1600 to fix this. If that doesn't cover it, then my warranty should pick it up. They're looking into all that now and will get back to me. I'm surprised how expensive this job would be. New EGR coolers were only about $275 I thought.

Edit: son of a. They said this service bulletin had been done on my car back in Feb 2014 and that it pertains only to the cold-side flexible hose. My crack is on the lower/hot side hose, so this SB does not cover that :| My warranty better cover this...

There are 2 EGR coolers.One is at the top which you removed while changing thermostat and other one sits beside DPF.So which one cracked?

Both are ~$550 each at morristown bmw.

Only the High Pressure EGR cooler( one on the top) cracks due to the flex connections, and the high pressure, high temp gasses that go thru. The Low Pressure EGR cooler is exposed to much less harsh conditions and temp changes and i never heard of one cracked.
After I have removed and re-installed the EGR safe mode is kicking at low to medium load. I was towing the boat the other day and when cruising @65 mph all was good. The moment I get to a slight uphill the safe mode kicks in. It is great fun to restart the car when losing speed at a busy highway highly populated with trucks (I5) :yikes: If I am going full throttle, no problem. I am afraid now the bottom pipe of the cooler cracked, but I dont see any signs of soot and cannot feel any smell. It may be a time for a closer inspection.

That is kind of how mine was, except a much more exaggerated crack, I guess. Whenever I was about half throttle it would kick into limp mode. Once I could cruise a little with very slight or no throttle, that message would go away.

Wow, so the dealer heard back from the warranty company and they are stating that they dont' cover some of the parts required for this work, so I have to pay out of pocket. Now I'm going to push regarding the EPA emissions warranty coverage to see why that also won't apply. This is dumb and now I'm getting pissed.

Yeah, not a good situation. From what I understand you already done this job. If it were me I'd negotiate a deal with the warranty company-they buy the parts, I pay for the labor, I do the labor myself, everybody happy.
But the biggest problem is that these HP EGR coolers will continue to crack no matter what. I will keep the DPF and SCR in my car, but once the HP EGR cooler cracks I am removing the system.