Quote:
Originally Posted by LVP
For the wipers, if they didn't seat the sensor back to the glass correctly, or if there are bubbles in the sensing area, that could have an effect. For mine it was the module itself. You can unclip it (be careful!) from the holder that is attached to the glass. I snagged a used module from a wrecker, so I was able to see how it was supposed to unclip. On the connector side of the module, at each end of the module, you'll see two little flush plastic tabs that almost have the same profiles as the connector (but smaller). You push those in and in a direction parallel to the glass surface. This will push the long plastic pin out the backside of the module. Do this on both sides and it'll allow the module to release from the bracket that is attached to the glass.
When my module went, I unplugged it. It got me intermittent wipers back (no sensing) but I lost the automatic headlights. If you have the software you can test the module as well. I used DIS but INPA I think will give you the light values too. Some say you have to reset or reteach the module. I didn't and have had no issues.
Hope that helps.
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It does, thanks a bunch.
I've already got a copy of the INPA 6.4.3 image with everything on it. I just happened to have a Dell Latitude D530 laptop with XP and a serial port laying around, specs are fairly similar to the GT1 T30. So, I've got almost everything I'll need, I just haven't ordered the K-Line cable yet.
About that ... I've read conflicting reports on K-Line, which is why I haven't ordered one yet. Some people say that only a serial cable will work properly. Others say USB is fine. Can I get a ruling on that?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Overboost
Take the cover off the sensor under your mirror and check to see if it is mounted weird or unplugged. The headlights should not be on in the auto setting on a sunny day. Something is wrong. The cloudy edges tell me that the sensor prism has been replaced (badly) but again, I can't really tell without being there myself and having a look. The plastic cover splits down the middle. Be careful and move the mirror around to get it out. I just replaced my windshield in my E46 and it was not BMW stamped but I did buy the OEM supplier Saint Gobain Sekurit glass. I would recommend Saint Gobain Sekurit or Pilkington. My sensor works perfect and the prism come on the glass from the manufacturer. The guys from ABRA up by the lake in our area did mine for around $400 with a seal from Hendrick on my E46.
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Thanks for the input on that! $400 is still what I'd consider to be a
fairly expensive fix for a small gain. I try to consider the law of diminishing returns for things like this
If you consider that I paid $2500 for the car, plus another ~$550 for an alternator (which I replaced myself) and a brand-new set of tires combined, you would probably understand where I'm coming from.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Overboost
As far as your X5 not going to sleep, I can't believe you don't have a dead battery in the morning. When mine had this issue, (twice) the battery would die in less than 2 days. First time it was the final stage resistor and second time it was the telematics module.
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That's odd, it's sat for at least a few days and it cranked right up! I haven't run a dark current test but OBD voltages always look good and everything seems to be working fine so far.
I have noticed a buzzing sound that seems like it's coming from the climate control panel after I shut off the car (and sometimes when I get back in the following day.) It kinda sounds like a cabin fan on the lowest setting. I just assumed it was the timed vent fan. My MID has a ton of missing pixels so I currently can't check/change the settings on that module.
Now I do want to try a dark current test. How do we do that effectively on these cars? Is there even a way to force it to go into 'sleep' mode?