Recently purchased an E53. Have questions!

[SineDeviance]

Originally Posted by LVP

For the wipers, if they didn't seat the sensor back to the glass correctly, or if there are bubbles in the sensing area, that could have an effect. For mine it was the module itself. You can unclip it (be careful!) from the holder that is attached to the glass. I snagged a used module from a wrecker, so I was able to see how it was supposed to unclip. On the connector side of the module, at each end of the module, you'll see two little flush plastic tabs that almost have the same profiles as the connector (but smaller). You push those in and in a direction parallel to the glass surface. This will push the long plastic pin out the backside of the module. Do this on both sides and it'll allow the module to release from the bracket that is attached to the glass.

When my module went, I unplugged it. It got me intermittent wipers back (no sensing) but I lost the automatic headlights. If you have the software you can test the module as well. I used DIS but INPA I think will give you the light values too. Some say you have to reset or reteach the module. I didn't and have had no issues.

Hope that helps.

It does, thanks a bunch.

I've already got a copy of the INPA 6.4.3 image with everything on it. I just happened to have a Dell Latitude D530 laptop with XP and a serial port laying around, specs are fairly similar to the GT1 T30. So, I've got almost everything I'll need, I just haven't ordered the K-Line cable yet.

About that ... I've read conflicting reports on K-Line, which is why I haven't ordered one yet. Some people say that only a serial cable will work properly. Others say USB is fine. Can I get a ruling on that?

Originally Posted by Overboost

Take the cover off the sensor under your mirror and check to see if it is mounted weird or unplugged. The headlights should not be on in the auto setting on a sunny day. Something is wrong. The cloudy edges tell me that the sensor prism has been replaced (badly) but again, I can't really tell without being there myself and having a look. The plastic cover splits down the middle. Be careful and move the mirror around to get it out. I just replaced my windshield in my E46 and it was not BMW stamped but I did buy the OEM supplier Saint Gobain Sekurit glass. I would recommend Saint Gobain Sekurit or Pilkington. My sensor works perfect and the prism come on the glass from the manufacturer. The guys from ABRA up by the lake in our area did mine for around $400 with a seal from Hendrick on my E46.

Thanks for the input on that! $400 is still what I'd consider to be a fairly expensive fix for a small gain. I try to consider the law of diminishing returns for things like this

If you consider that I paid $2500 for the car, plus another ~$550 for an alternator (which I replaced myself) and a brand-new set of tires combined, you would probably understand where I'm coming from.

Originally Posted by Overboost

As far as your X5 not going to sleep, I can't believe you don't have a dead battery in the morning. When mine had this issue, (twice) the battery would die in less than 2 days. First time it was the final stage resistor and second time it was the telematics module.

That's odd, it's sat for at least a few days and it cranked right up! I haven't run a dark current test but OBD voltages always look good and everything seems to be working fine so far.

I have noticed a buzzing sound that seems like it's coming from the climate control panel after I shut off the car (and sometimes when I get back in the following day.) It kinda sounds like a cabin fan on the lowest setting. I just assumed it was the timed vent fan. My MID has a ton of missing pixels so I currently can't check/change the settings on that module.

Now I do want to try a dark current test. How do we do that effectively on these cars? Is there even a way to force it to go into 'sleep' mode?

[Qsilver7]

Originally Posted by SineDeviance

I have noticed a buzzing sound that seems like it's coming from the climate control panel after I shut off the car (and sometimes when I get back in the following day.) It kinda sounds like a cabin fan on the lowest setting. I just assumed it was the timed vent fan. My MID has a ton of missing pixels so I currently can't check/change the settings on that module.

There's a little fan inside the IHKA control panel that is included in the 16 minute consumer cut-off feature.

This little fan turns on as soon as a wake-up call is made to the P-bus. It begins to draw cabin air in across a thermistor which facilitates maintaining the temperatue set on the IHKA. This fan continues to run up to 16 minutes (if no calls are made on the P-bus) in case you come back to the vehicle for more driving.

So when you unlocked the vehicle with remote key or lifted the door handle...the little fan turns on...and if you're sitting in the car...it will stay on after shutting the engine off for 16 minutes. If no calls are made on the P-bus...then the little fan will shut off. If you activate anything on the P-bus...then the fan will continue to run.

[SineDeviance]

It turns out that the windshield is an aftermarket unit, so I'm boned on the rain sensor. Oh wells :/

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

There's a little fan inside the IHKA control panel that is included in the 16 minute consumer cut-off feature.
...

That is all great info, thanks a bunch! I now know for a fact that the vehicle isn't going to sleep. I just looked in the window after the car has been parked for an hour, and the park LED along with shift indicator lights (P, R, N, D) were all still lit.

I looked up some guides on how to perform a parasitic draw test in these cars. I'll try to do some over the next few days.

Originally Posted by srmmmm

Your vehicle has the GM 5L40E transmission.

You sure? According to this, X5's were equipped with the A5S390R (which is BMW's part number for the GM 5L50.)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_5L4..._.28A5S390R.29

The 5L40-E is rated for a max 4,000lb GVWR, while the 5L50 is rated for 5,000. It does make sense considering the X5 3.0i's curb weight is pushing 5,000.

Originally Posted by srmmmm

Considering the mileage on the unit, I would strongly recommend no fluid change. Instead, look into the firmware update. Mine was done in 2006 at 54,000 miles and I have not experienced any shifting issues at all.

I guess I'll look into it some more, thanks! I'm thinking I'll probably need to flash it myself if there's an update. I called Hendrick BMW's service department last week and asked about transmission firmware upgrades after reading about it, but nobody seemed to know what I was talking about. They wanted me to bring it in for a diagnostic instead (meaning they wanted to make a quick $200 for doing absolutely nothing at all.) I declined for obvious reasons.

Originally Posted by srmmmm

I would recommend you inspect the front driveshaft splines going into the transfer case though. AC evaporator condensate dripping on the driveshaft, combined with inadequate lubrication from the factory caused rust and eventual spline failure on many E53s.

That's not good. I'm guessing I need to remove the front driveshaft to check? How involved a process is that, roughly? And will I need any special tools?

[Overboost]

Originally Posted by SineDeviance

It turns out that the windshield is an aftermarket unit, so I'm boned on the rain sensor. Oh wells :/

I guess I'll look into it some more, thanks! I'm thinking I'll probably need to flash it myself if there's an update. I called Hendrick BMW's service department last week and asked about transmission firmware upgrades after reading about it, but nobody seemed to know what I was talking about. They wanted me to bring it in for a diagnostic instead (meaning they wanted to make a quick $200 for doing absolutely nothing at all.) I declined for obvious reasons.

Yeah the Hendricks service advisors have told me countless times my retrofits will not work and it couldn't even be done. When I retrofitted the auto lights and auto wipers, they told me I had to buy a brand new LCM from them at $800 and spend another $200 for the VIN/mileage coding to eliminate the tamper dot. And because my car did not come from the factory that way, the wiring was non existent and would not be possible. LMAO, I just smile and offer to show them how I did it. You should have seen their faces.

Front Windshield Replacement Parts - E46Fanatics

[SineDeviance]

Originally Posted by Overboost

Yeah the Hendricks service advisors have told me countless times my retrofits will not work and it couldn't even be done. When I retrofitted the auto lights and auto wipers, they told me I had to buy a brand new LCM from them at $800 and spend another $200 for the VIN/mileage coding to eliminate the tamper dot. And because my car did not come from the factory that way, the wiring was non existent and would not be possible. LMAO, I just smile and offer to show them how I did it. You should have seen their faces.

Nice man! I have a couple stories like that. I love making dealer service eat it!

Originally Posted by Overboost

Front Windshield Replacement Parts - E46Fanatics

Thanks for that. I guess I should check out FCP Euro.

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

Just an FYI to complicate things....I'm not sure why your fellow 02 model year e53 owners haven't spoken up....there are many past threads about how early build e53 X5s orange gear shift light does not go out.

For example...here's a thread from 2010: https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...in-issues.html

See, I read that thread and I've been wondering if it was correct or not. One thread says the lights stay on, another says they don't. It's good to have confirmation. I guess that's one problem solved, you gotta love the things that aren't actually broken.

I'm still going to do the draw test and make sure it's not pulling more than 30mA or so.

Originally Posted by Overboost

Thank you for the knowledge Qsilver7. I have an 04 so it definitely goes to sleep and the park indicator goes off as does the rear window lock light on the door switch. This provided a quick peek into my sleeping issues when I had them. I could just look through the window and see if she was sleeping or not. From reading the post you provided it looks like this change occurred in 2003 models. Learning everyday!

I want to say thanks, too.

I consider myself to be a fairly experienced mechanic/technician, but before buying the X5 last month I had zero experience working on German and/or Luxury cars. Figuring some of this electrical/programming stuff out is a little like being thrown to the wolves. I tried to do a ton of research before and after buying this car, but there's a lot of conflicting information out there and after a while it all kinda runs together. There's just so much more to learn with these cars. Still, I'm trying to step my game up.

[srmmmm]

Originally Posted by SineDeviance

You sure? According to this, X5's were equipped with the A5S390R (which is BMW's part number for the GM 5L50.)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_5L4..._.28A5S390R.29

The 5L40-E is rated for a max 4,000lb GVWR, while the 5L50 is rated for 5,000. It does make sense considering the X5 3.0i's curb weight is pushing 5,000.


As I read it, the 5L50 was used on the diesel engine. The torque capacity of the transmission is what is critical, not the vehicle weight. The 2002 E53 3.0 weighs about 4400 lbs.



That's not good. I'm guessing I need to remove the front driveshaft to check? How involved a process is that, roughly? And will I need any special tools?

My understanding is you can do it by removing the qiubo (flex disk) bolts, then drop the front of the driveshaft to get enough clearance to pull it out of the transfer case. Mine was inspected when it failed

2002 X5 3.0 317,700 miles
2014 428i 26,000 miles

2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles

1970 Firebird - Under restoration

[SineDeviance]

Originally Posted by srmmmm

My understanding is you can do it by removing the qiubo (flex disk) bolts, then drop the front of the driveshaft to get enough clearance to pull it out of the transfer case. Mine was inspected when it failed

Awesome, thanks! I looked up a diagram, and aside from needing to remove the front skid plate it doesn't look that complicated.

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by SineDeviance

Awesome, thanks! I looked up a diagram, and aside from needing to remove the front skid plate it doesn't look that complicated.

Make a list of other tasks you may want to complete while the reinforcement plate is down/off. Items like front diff fluid change, sway bar bush replacement etc. are going to need the reinforcement plate to be dropped too, so get 'em all at once.

[SineDeviance]

Today the rear passenger window wouldn't roll back up. I pulled the door panel off and of course the regulator had committed suicide. The window retaining clip was also broken, so I ordered both parts from Amazon today and they should arrive Sunday.

It seems like this kinda stuff always happens on a Friday. Just once I'd like some advance warning on a major failure

At least the parts were cheap; $58 shipped, and the regulator comes with a new window motor already attached.

Originally Posted by wpoll

Make a list of other tasks you may want to complete while the reinforcement plate is down/off. Items like front diff fluid change, sway bar bush replacement etc. are going to need the reinforcement plate to be dropped too, so get 'em all at once.

Yeah, might as well. Thanks.