"Check Brake Linings" any way to tell if it's front or back sensor...

[JAH1]

...without yanking tires off? I suspect it is rear as the fronts were all done at dealer exactly one year (10,000 miles) ago. The total bummer is that I am 4 days and 600 miles out of my original factory warranty!

There were endless posts on the brake warning light but I didn't see any when I searched on determining front or back?

Thanks for help. Looking forward to doing maintenance on my own now that warranty is out.

It is CPO but I am sure I have exhausted any goodwill at dealer already....

Joe

2006 4.4 (50,600 miles)


edit: wow, this writeup looks pretty good....http://www.xoutpost.com/articles/x5/...e-job-diy.html

[JCL]

Sensors are on LF and RR. No way to tell without physically inspecting the pads. Best way is to pull a wheel. Dealers use a small pen-shaped depth indicator that they reach in through the wheel, but since you have good reason to believe it is the rear, start there. Not a bad idea to inspect the fronts while you are at it.

Also, it doesn't matter at all that your warranty is up, it matters that your maintenance plan is up. Probably on the same timeline.

I checked which article you have, that link is the article by hayaku. That is the one I would recommend you follow, it is very complete. There are a few other posts in the articles section that may fill in gaps for you.

[JAH1]

Cool, thanks. In addition to being lazy it's only 49 here today so crawling under truck after work in a cold garage will be a PITA.

Yep, maintenance plan is up. The dealer and I had a 'disagreement' during my last visit and I am now painfully aware of the exact dates of expiration. Thankfully there is another dealer just as close that I will patronize via CPO program if something major comes along.

Thank you for responding. I will now start pouring through the 1000s of pad and rotor posts....

Joe

[JAH1]

Just took bolts out and tire wouldn't budge...totally corroded to axle. I could see the pads and rotors...totally toast. The fact that pads were thin, rotor edge rusted to hell etc AND wheel corroded on, leads me to believe that these are the original equipment. Damn, 4 days out of warranty.

Oh well, anyone got advice for getting wheel off???

I used a BFH (sledge) on a Honda Pilot once and found it frightening.

I also loosened bolts a bit on an A6 once and drove up and down driveway til corrosion gave way and tire was free. Equally as frightening.

If anyone has good idea please let me know.

Finally, I used to order from autopartswarehouse.com for all my Audi stuff. Other good sites to patronize?

Thanks for the help.

Joe

[JCL]

This is not an unusual problem with the rear wheels, as the hub centres can rust. Soak the hub ring with penetrating oil, leave it for a few hours, and then use a large persuader (sledge) from behind to knock it off. Leave the bolts several turns loose but still installed, so that the wheel doesn't fly off when it comes free. Some have driven on the wheel with the bolts loose, but I think that is an inelegant solution and you can damage the bolts.

I like OE rotors from the dealer, and Axxis Deluxe pads from www.zeckhausenracing.com, a board sponsor. Zeckhausen also sells Centric rotors, which look like a reasonable aftermarket rotor. You will need one new wear sensor from the dealer, they are one-time sensors.

[HEISING]

If you would like to see which pad sensor is faulty, Get your ohm meter and measure each for continuity. The faulty one will read "open" or no connection. When the pad gets low, the rotor will grind a little ball off the end of the sensor. This breaks the connection and the sensor will have to be replaced with new pads.