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Old 01-09-2006, 11:05 AM
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: X5world
Posts: 54
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Oil Change DIY for a BMW X5 3.0i

Contributed by: hayaku


BMW X5 3.0 Oil Change

Do It Yourself Oil Change for the BMW X5 3.0 Subject
used was a 2001 X5

Oil Change Kit you buy from the Dealer.
Filter kit has new crush washer and new O-ring.

tools needed: 3/8" torque wrench, 3/8" wrench,
36mm socket, 17mm socket, 1/2" to 3/8" socket adapter, 3/8" socket extension,
and flat blade screw driver

more tools: ramps, wheel chocks. Optional:
floor covering (card board), step stool, ramp extensions (for lowered cars)

even more tools: oil collection pan, funnels,
clean rags. Optional: rubber gloves and flash light.

straighten out the car then slide the ramps up
to the tires evenly on both sides

make sure the tires are past the first ridge,
sitting in the valley.

make sure both tires are in the valley

use wheel chocks or something to block both
rear tires.

if you're short like me, use a step stool.

engine bay.

36mm socket with 3/8 to 1/2 adapter, 3/8
extension and 3/8 socket wrench in place

loosen counter clockwise

oil filter cap removed

remove plugs on the oil collector pan. oil
filter cap with filter in the oil collection pan.

pull out the filter

6k miles on this filter - not sure if this
would last another 6k miles.

clean up the oil that dripped when removing
the filter cap and filter

soak up all old oil in the canister with a clean rag

old oil removed from the canister. ready for a
new filter now.

cover the canister to prevent dust. remove the
oil filler cap.

second trap door is where the drain plug is.
flashlight points to it.

use the screw driver to pop open the trap

remove the trap door at the hinges to prevent
oil from hitting it.

oil drain plug exposed

17mm socket with 3/8 wrench and extension.
turn counter clockwise to remove.

removing of the plug will make the oil jump
out. messy messy. notice the angle, trap door would get dirty if left in place.

new seal and crush washer still in bag.

replaced the old O-Ring seal, notice its still
dry and white. Replace the crush washer on the drain plug too. Old o-ring and
old crush washer to the right, new installed. Dip your finger into a new bottle
of oil and lube the O-Ring before you install the cap.

when the oil is finish draining, replace the
drain plug with new crush washer. torque to 18 ft lbs on a 17mm socket
clockwise. Wipe the area dry so you can watch for leaks later on.

re-install the trap door at the hinges

close the trap door.

pour 1 bottle of oil slowly over the filter to
prevent oil starvation on initial startup. filter will soak up a whole liter of
oil, go slow and use a small nozzle funnel.

Re-install the oil filter cap and torque to 18
ft lbs clockwise using 36mm socket. Make sure the new o-ring is lubed with new
oil before you install the cap.

use this side of the engine to get enough room
to turn the wrench clockwise.

pour in another 5 liters of oil (total of 6
liters so far). Use a wide nozzle funnel to avoid spills.

Reinstall the oil filler cap. when finished,
back the car down to level ground and check oil with dip stick. Clean up any
spilt oil or else you will smell burnt oil while driving.

Fill the remaining 1 to 1.5 liters of oil slowly and in small amounts till you
reach the max line on the dip stick. I ended up using 7.5 liters like the
manual stated.

Optional step: use Blackstone oil analysis
collection kit to analyze oil and condition of engine.

Dispose of old oil at local oil collection
center (Wal-Mart, jiffy lube, etc)

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