Educate me on Waxing my car

[jsoto]

long ass extension cord ? hand buffer might have more strength than a 12V vig powered buffer....

If you want to get it semi-serious on detail, check out the detailing links above

Or a quick step process as in -

Iron X on Wheels
Iron X on Paint
Nanoskin followup on paint or clay
Polish - whether it be 1 step or 2
Cheap and durable - Collonite Offerings
Spray and wipe dry - but only 2/3 months durability - Gyeon Wetcoat
6 Months + - Millions of options, all depending on your pocket or your golden eyes

IMO, cleaning the paint prior to polishing is one step to NOT BE avoided

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by shevin

I heared those sprays have silicon in it and it damages body paint.

WRONG - cheap shit from Walmart might have silicon - spray sealants like CarPro Reload, Gyeon WetCoat etc have SILICA - totally different polymer.

The point of sealing or waxing is to provide a sacrificial layer to absorb UV, and avoid road film and grime from settling into the pores of the paint and keeping the paint protected - you are protecting the clear coat this way -

Same as the point of decontamination such as Iron X that jsoto posted above is to release the bonded contaminants from the pores of the paint, sort of "exfoliation" for paint so to speak.

[shevin]

so what is clay for ?

[Ricky Bobby]

Releasing bonded contaminants from the paint's surface so that they do not bond further and over time degrade the clear coat and penetrate below the surface of the paint - It also makes for a better bonding surface for your sealant or wax -

It's almost like saying to your wife that her legs would be smooth with body lotion applied to them, but if she shaved her legs first they would be even smoother, you know?

[jsoto]

shevin -

How did it go.
ahhh...detailing. It's like a bad drug I just can quit...
I jumped online to order 1 MF Pad, next thing you know, I've got a 2 hundo purchase order.

[shevin]

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

Releasing bonded contaminants from the paint's surface so that they do not bond further and over time degrade the clear coat and penetrate below the surface of the paint - It also makes for a better bonding surface for your sealant or wax -

It's almost like saying to your wife that her legs would be smooth with body lotion applied to them, but if she shaved her legs first they would be even smoother, you know?

hahaha funniest description for clay ever !
can I use clay on the windows also ?

[Proflyer]

Originally Posted by shevin

hahaha funniest description for clay ever !
can I use clay on the windows also ?

Yes, best trick for windows (per my detail buddy who was just featured at SEMA) is the steel wool/rain X trick. Get a bag of 0000 steel wool (finest steel wool) and a bottle of old school rain-X. Clean the windows and windshield (especially windshield) with a rag/window cleaner. Then dry them and rub the steel wool liberally all over the windows. You'll notice they get really smooth feeling. THEN apply the rain-x with a foam pad or micro fiber liberally...let it dry and then kinda 'buff' it off. Some don't buff it they just rinse it with a hose. If you don't need to drive soon, the longer you can let it sit the better.

You'll be amazed how the road grime in the winter literally flies off your windshield. Wipers work amazing again too.

Same buddy turned me onto the best quick detail and no-rinse around made by Optimum. Get the blue Optimum No-rinse car wash, use it to do the no-rinse wash whenever you want, it works well (if the car isn't too dirty, get the heavy stuff off first). A little goes a long way, get a microfiber mitt and a bucket and I think its 2oz per gallon of water.

For the detail spray: gallon of DISTILLED water. Pour out 10oz of water. Get an 8oz bottle of the Optimum Opti-Seal (it's $$ but worth it). Pour the whole 8oz in the gallon jug of water THEN add 2oz of the Optimum no-rinse car wash (blue stuff) and you now have a gallon of the best quick detail I've ever used. Works amazing on glasses, phone screens, iPads etc. too. It'll separate so make sure you shake it before you use it.

[Proflyer]

Oh, and I have the harbor freight buffer (at the recommendation of above detailer buddy) and it's done both cars and both custom choppers a half dozen times in the last few years. Get the orbital one it's like $50. Their pads suck though. Spend money on good pads, clean them when done and store them in a ziplock.

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by Proflyer

For the detail spray: gallon of DISTILLED water. Pour out 10oz of water. Get an 8oz bottle of the Optimum Opti-Seal (it's $$ but worth it). Pour the whole 8oz in the gallon jug of water THEN add 2oz of the Optimum no-rinse car wash (blue stuff) and you now have a gallon of the best quick detail I've ever used. Works amazing on glasses, phone screens, iPads etc. too. It'll separate so make sure you shake it before you use it.

Wow I have not heard of combining Opti Seal with ONR - I guess in theory it could work -

[X-cellent]

Here is an example of what a good polish and wax job will do when done by a professional.....understand that i'm sure this was a few thousand dollars, but i think you can see the difference.

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-related-...mw-m5-e39.html

Phil's work is some of the best i have ever seen and highlights how abuse can be corrected (to a point) and what it entails to really do a good job.