2002 X5 won't start after driver side brake pad & rotor change - Page 2

David.X5 · #11 03-22-2015, 11:08 AM

Both the M54 and M62TU have a schraeder check valve on the fuel rail, covered with a black cap you can use to test fuel pressure at the engine. You can access it by removing the top cover (acoustical cover) and unscrewing the black plastic cap.

You can borrow a fuel test gauge from some auto parts stores or buy one for about $30 on amazon (see http://www.amazon.com/OTC-5630-Fuel-.../dp/B000R5IASC).

Get a Bentley manual if you don't have one... Pages 160-7 to 160-9 of the Bentley manual covers testing the fuel delivery. Other parts of section 160 include how to test the pump.

The fuel pressure spec is 47.9 to 53.7 psi with key on but engine not running and 36.3 to 46.4 psi with the engine idling.

The fuel lines do run under the drivers seat towards the front of the car. The fuel filter with the integrated pressure regulator is under the car, roughly under the drivers seat.

There is also a vacuum line that runs from the intake, down the strut tower and back to the pressure regulator. I haven't seen it written, but assume this is used to adjust fuel pressure/flow (higher pressure at higher load...). The engine should run with that vacuum line disconnected though, just probably not ideally.

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beamer9 · #12 03-22-2015, 11:10 AM

I don't have a guaranteed battery drainer, but the behavior I experienced with the brake wear sensor coincides with behavior I experienced when I replaced the front suspension. The car does have a broken steering wheel motor that when the wheel tries to auto adjust goes on and doesn't go off. Normally it doesn't turn on but when the car settings got tripped by the wire I think maybe it got tripped because its been turning on randomly and resetting seat positions even without keysince I was under driver side wheel well.

JCL · #13 03-22-2015, 12:27 PM

All of the electrical symptoms you mention can be caused by a bad battery.

The brake sensor can't flatten the battery. Leaving a door open while you work on it, or having a faulty seat control module or other parasitic drain, can.

You may have a fuel problem relating to the low battery.

Did you jack the car up anywhere near the fuel lines or filter and possibly damage something?

beamer9 · #14 03-22-2015, 07:13 PM

I replaced fuel pump relay and that did not fix it. The following photo is of the dashboard when the keys are turned into second position

beamer9 · #15 03-22-2015, 09:10 PM

The issue with the flooding theory is the car was running, and then it went dead after a couple seconds. I did try gassing it and turning ov er around 30 seconds multiple times.

beamer9 · #16 03-23-2015, 01:20 PM

I pulled the rear seat and had somebody turn the key on. I did hear the fuel pump start. I am currently charging batter, because it was back down to around 20%. I attempted to run the instrument cluster test but it wouldn't even turn on and I tried holding down the button for 15 seconds multiple times. I haven't rented a fuel pressure gauge yet because its going to cost me a taxi. Will the wire on the master cylinder cap cause any bizarre symptoms if its loose? Lastly, I pulled the air filter housing during my first brake job is there anything there that can affect the car not starting? I think my next step after the car is charged will be to pull the drivers side wheel again and check the electrical

Thanks, Aaron

beamer9 · #17 03-23-2015, 08:22 PM

I pulled the wheel, removed both sensors and no start. Every time I try to crank it a few times the car goes from 100% to below 50%. I did the fuel pressure gauge and although my seal wasn't perfect I watched it go to near 50 psi before the seal was lost by turning key to second position. After messing with the fuel it started on a couple cylinders for maybe a second then went back to cranking. I hooked the battery back up and that is where It is now. Any more suggestions?

The battery is starting to seem like it may be in bad shape to lose a charge that quickly. Is it normal to kill the battery cranking it for a minute? Even so how would that keep the car from starting? I assume a healthy beamer could start on 25% charge?

Thanks, Aaron

StephenVA · #18 03-23-2015, 11:35 PM

Arron,

If the Battery voltage drops below 9.6V, the computer and electrics go nuts in any car especially a battery hungry BMW X5. Charge the battery> what is the voltage at rest? Above 12.5?
Load test the battery, If you do not have a carbon pile load tester, a cheap quickie test is turn on headlight to high beam for 30 seconds. Did voltage drop below 12V? Y/N?
Check the connections at the battery posts, to confirm clean good connections (yes, sick your head down there with a flashlight and look.)
If no, crank while looking at the voltage at the battery (at the Battery, not the posts under the hood). Drop below 9.6V?

Replace battery....

Note, as batteries get old, the cells no longer will hold a charge beyond a surface charge. Many posters here find that average battery life is 3-5 years with short trips and heavy accessory load (AC, heater, stereo, etc on)

There are multiple postings on Battery voltage vs % of charge. Just search battery testing on this forum.

beamer9 · #19 03-24-2015, 12:57 AM

Dead battery on my voltage meter, so I improvised. I read my charged percentage, with charger hooked directly to the battery. I turned on high beams and in 15 seconds the charge dropped from 60% to 25%, then I cranked it and it huffed and puffed and acted like a dying car but it did start weakly for a sputter or two before dying. I'd say the battery is definitely toast based on your high beam test. Thanks for that suggestion. Will update once I replace battery.

StephenVA · #20 03-24-2015, 09:34 AM

I believe he is reading the scale on the charger that shows a range of full to low which is based on amp push to the battery. This measurement has no connection to voltage. The ability of a poor performing battery to be recharged to a low draw level on a charger is normal. It only holds a surface charge that will drain away in 10 seconds of cranking to nothing. You are in a circle that will go on until the battery heats up and will no longer accept the charge.

Recommendation for testing batteries, Voltage and amp load are the only way to test, everything else is a guess with no measurement scale of reference.

Battery at rest: What voltage?
Charge battery with a known good charger having a 25 AMP (or greater) rating.
Charge for xx hrs depending on your charger. Smaller units take a LONG time. 50 AMP commercial 15 mins/1 hr
remove charger: Test battery voltage- over 13.5-13.8 Y/N (
Apply 1/2 cold cranking amps rating load (see carbon pile testers like Sun Volt Amp Battery Testers)
does battery voltage drop below 9.6 volts? Throw battery in recycle pile.

We will not go down the conversation path of acid content vs fluid inside of the battery as 90% of the readers can not figure out how to open a "sealed" battery. In the old days one could rinse out a battery, install new acid, and you would be good for another 6 months! Thankfully there was only a radio and a starter for draws...

This test procedure has been around since the 60's when Sun Electric developed it for the auto industry. The only changes are the newer battery types have different load parameters/ results but this process will get you in the ball park.

Want more detailed info? Basic to Advanced Battery Information from Battery University

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