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Old 04-17-2015, 02:50 PM
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5 Months with my 4.8iS (Dynavin for dummies DIY inside) (Long thread)

So I figured I'd make a thread sharing my first 5 months back in a 4.8iS. I don't have any huge plans for the near future as far as mods go but I will just use this thread to update any new mods that come along.

I bought the car in NC with 59k miles in fairly good shape. The interior wasn't in the condition I'm used too (especially coming from my 750i) but I had to give a little to get a lot and the mileage/condition of exterior was worth it.

Since I purchased it I've done the following Maintenance and Repairs:
- Front DWS's (had some garbage NEXENs when I picked it up)
- Rear bumper flares (were missing when I picked it up)
- Genuine Valve Cover Gaskets
- OE Spark Plugs
- Front and Rear Powerstop Ceramic Pads (hate cleaning wheels - NO they don't stop as well)
- Replaced all the front control arms, mounts, links, and tie rod assemblies with Lemforder pieces
- Performed a Transmission service (with mechatronic sleeve, gasket, filter, and Genuine fluid)
- Replaced Transfercase motor with Genuine unit
- Flushed both differentials, transfercase, and brake fluid with OE fluids
- Replaced both front Axles with GKN/OE units
- Replaced air, cabin, and fuel filters with OE filters
- Replaced Front Bumper Grills (cracked plowing snow )
- Replaced door lock rings (on panels - always disappear)
- 3500 Lubro 10w60 Oil Changes w/ Hengst filters
***I was weary of this but my friend/owner of 3D autoworks in NH told me he has run the same oil in his wifes 4.8iS for 100k+ miles and doesn't have any consumption issues or valve seal issues - so I went with it. With the exception of extended warm up on cold start in the winter I haven't experienced any issues. The car idles dead quite and drives perfect. Definitely seems like a good precaution to take.***

Most of the above was me being picky and preventative but it all made for a very nice daily driver that likes to get romped on

Mods since purchase (car was bone stock):
- 20mm front/30mm rear H&R spacers
- Custom Stainless Xpipe done by Sam's Euro Shop in NH (this guy is the shit)
- Coded windows up with remote and did some other updates
- Carbon CF ACS Trunk Spoiler
- Roof Rail Delete
- Debadged Trunk
- Lowered with BC coilovers with camber plates and extended rear dampening adjusters (couldn't do the stock air any longer)
- Dynavin N6 with Reverse cam/aux/ipod/usb etc
- 4.8iS Sport Seats
- 6k HID Fogs
- LED Halo Bulbs
- Smoked Sidemarker bulbs
- BMW/Weathertech Floor Mats (great for snow season but crappy looking)
- AFE stage 2 intake from Raj

Getting addressed/installed soon:
- FULL detail with leather restoration (fixing door panels and seats)
- Cross Drilled Rotors F&R with new pads, sensors, and painted calipers

For people considering a 4.8iS:
I bought this car with the intention of keeping it for a fun daily driver. It has been just that and I have pretty much convinced myself not to sell it as I have a small issue with getting bored fast. It got me through the worst winter of my lifetime in Boston with DWS's and no real issues (besides frozen leveling sensors twice). It only really broke twice (Tcase and MAF wiped out simultaneously) to the point where I had to address the problem immediately. Its fun in the city, really fun on the highway, and now with BC's even more fun in the twisties.

This is NOT the type of car you just turn on and drive. You have to stay on it maintenance wise or it will destroy you. If you want something cheap for $20k this isn't it. If you want something that you are willing to do regular upkeep on and that can be afforded with a $20 to $25k budget then this is a viable option.












NON factory Nav Dynavin N6 Install for Dummies (me):

*This probably isn't the BEST install you DIY you can find as I did it all without instruction and without much audio installation experience. This took me about a week to do working a leisurely 2 hours on Sunday and then about 2 hours each night this week (would of been done faster if I had better light and could buy time to do it during the day).

Realistically, if one is focused, you can probably bang this entire install out in 3 to 5 hours depending on how fast you work and how good you are at dismantling certain parts of the e53s interior.

Step 1:
Buy this from Jeff at J&T Distributing. Shopping around to save $50 will quickly backfire the second you have a stupid/annoying question (yes there is such thing as a stupid question) and you can't get an answer from your ebay vendor. I've said this a few times this week but I'll say it once more - Jeff is the best! He answered all my questions within the hour and worked with me on a few things I forgot to order (didn't charge me shipping). I wish he sold more stuff for our cars.

Step 2:
Organize your tools. I did this install in a NON Nav car WITH DSP. Removing the MID/CD Deck requires a T10 Torx, pulling off the volume knob, turning it a tiny bit counter clockwise, pushing it in and then pulling it out all.

Once that is removed and unplugged you can see the screws needed to remove the CD player. Once THAT is removed you can see, clear as day, what needs to be trimmed with a Dremel to fit the new unit (your Dynavin will come with a clear picture of what needs to be trimmed and how).

Step 3:
Choose the correct brackets for holding your N6 in place (nav or non nav brackets are different and both are included), read ALL of the labeled pigtails that came with your unit and put aside the ones you wont need (I called Jeff here to go through what I needed and didn't need), and take a second to make sure everything is on point.

You won't be using your MID plug for installing the N6 so I would tuck it down to the right of the HVAC unit/passenger side so you can access it from the glove box if you want to relocate your MID for the sake of not losing the OBC (I didn't do this but I might reinstall mine in the glove box so I can still reset everything without connecting to GT1)

Choose the one of two included plugs that fit your car plug. In my case the one that was labeled e46, e39 was the one that fit the car. I was a bit confused so I originally posted I had incorrect plugs but Jeff told me to just line it up and press in which worked and gave me a functioning Dynavin (yes plug and play).

Once I screwed around a little with the radio and menus I unplugged the unit and set it aside.

Step 4:
Wiring the auxiliary, the USB, the GPS antenna, reverse camera, and the mic. This all still plugs in on the back of the unit but requires routing wires throughout the car. Alot of this is personal preference as far as placement goes but I will give you guys my layout just like Doru, four.8is, and everyone else did.

- I removed the cluster and ran the mic and the antenna for the GPS behind the cluster, up the driverside A pillar. I placed the mic under my grab handle and ran the GPS antenna along the windshield to the rear view, where i trimmed the case for the rear view, and dropped the wire through it. The antenna is mounted on the back of my mirror (on the driverside to not cover the light sensor) with Velcro.

- I ran the Auxiliary and USB from starting from my center console cubby to the radio, along the center console, but tucked under the passenger side carpet.

Those side panels between the seat and carpet can be pulled off their mounting tabs and then just aligned and pressed back in. The one under the dash is held on by one Phillips screw but then held the center console on push clips as well.

I drilled out the hole for the USB on one side of the cubby and the Aux on the other then pressed them in and secured them from the back with some adhesive.

- The reverse camera is where I struggled the most. I have it all wired up now and will be playing with positioning tonight to decide where its final place will be. I originally planned to use an ebay reverse cam that mounted in the LED plate light but then called Jeff to discuss and he quickly convinced me to just go with his, so I did.

I ran the reverse wire from the front of the car back. I dropped it down behind the glove box, and under the kick panel on the passenger side. I pulled up the door sill plastic in front up tucked the wire underneath the carpet, pulled the B pillar off its mounting tabs (top and bottom pieces), put the wire under the bottom piece, and then pulled the rear door sill plastic and did the same. Once I got here I reattached all my plastics with the wire laying on the back seat. At this point I still had a decent amount of slack but realized that no matter what you are going to need extra wire once at the tailgate (no biggie). The final step of running the wire back was figuring out how to get it to the back without taking my cargo cover, cargo net, and side panels off.

*Sidenote - I hate pulling BMW interiors apart because they never go back together as tight and I already battle interior squeaks with the e53 so I avoided it at all costs - with overall success. It wasn't out of laziness.

When you pull the side/corner of the backrest forward it unclips and you can see a clear as day "tunnel" that you pass the wire through. It will save you the headache of running wire up through the headliner which is what I originally was going to do. Its like a godsend for this install because it brings the wire out right by the rear fuse box which is where you have to split the reverse camera wire into the top portion of the tailgate and the reverse/remote wire to the reverse light harness at the bottom of the trunk. The wiring, which is what confused me, got straightened out by my PM to Jeff which I quoted below (again in layman's terms):

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffb325
Quote:
Originally Posted by 525iT_Feen
Hopefully this is the last of my dumb ass questions as I am pretty much wrapping everything up (mainly the reverse camera).

The wiring that came with the reverse camera comes with a RCA style end on both sides and a little red wire coming out on both ends of the cable. As follows is how I plan on connecting it all tonight but I really am not sure if this is right or wrong:

On the dynavin side I have:
- The Yellow RCA plugged into the radio under "camera"
- The red wire ran to the wire labeled "reverse" on the dynavin harness

On the camera side I have:
- The Yellow RCA and camera end connected
- The red wire off the RCA connected to the reverse light
- The additional RED RCA that runs separately off the the camera end of the RCAS connected to power and ground.

If I understand this correctly, which again I might not, then the little red wire on both ends of the yellow RCA should serve as a "remote" wire of sorts which will activate the dynavin screen when I put it in reverse. The red rca/power and ground wire will serve as the actual power and ground source for the camera.
Yes you have it correct.
Tonight I will finalize placement of the camera and post pictures of it all tucked in. I originally wasn't going to write any of this up because i've seen better but most more technical. I figured if there are any other people out there who aren't "techy" but have common sense and basic knowledge of these cars that wanted to save money - this would help. I hope it somewhat does.

Step 5:
I plugged up the dynavin, with all connections, confirmed everything was working (mic, nav, aux, ipod, reverse) and pushed it in place.

Pictures:
Factory Connector:

Correct Dynavin supplied connector:


MY GPS placement:


My MIC placement:







Tailgate wiring where I brought the reverse camera wire through and ran it down the passenger side of the tailgate:


Reverse Camera Mounting:


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Last edited by 525iT_Feen; 04-20-2015 at 08:55 AM.
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Old 04-17-2015, 03:32 PM
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For people considering a 4.8iS:
I bought this car with the intention of keeping it for a fun daily driver. It has been just that and I have pretty much convinced myself not to sell it as I have a small issue with getting bored fast. It got me through the worst winter of my lifetime in Boston with DWS's and no real issues (besides frozen leveling sensors twice). It only really broke twice (Tcase and MAF wiped out simultaneously) to the point where I had to address the problem immediately. Its fun in the city, really fun on the highway, and now with BC's even more fun in the twisties.

This is NOT the type of car you just turn on and drive. You have to stay on it maintenance wise or it will destroy you. If you want something cheap for $20k this isn't it. If you want something that you are willing to do regular upkeep on and that can be afforded with a $20 to $25k budget then this is a viable option.


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Old 04-17-2015, 08:22 PM
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Great thread. Would be keen to hear your thoughts on the BC's. I steered away from them because I couldn't find enough reviews for the e53.


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2005 3.0d Sport - Sapphire Black
Engine : Bluefin Superchip Tune,
Wheels & Sus: Style 168s (10.5s all round), H&R RDA Spacers, Bilstein B12, Eibach 40mm drop, Whiteline RSB
Exterior: Le Mans flares, 4.6is kit F&R
Interior: Dynavin N6, Blackvue DR650 dash cams

My Build Thread: http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...run-sheet.html
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Old 04-17-2015, 10:20 PM
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nice
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Old 04-19-2015, 02:05 AM
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Great write up. This will come in handy if I decide to add the 4.8is the my stable.

I like the color.
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Old 04-20-2015, 08:57 AM
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Added the AFE Intake from Raj this weekend and cleaned up the engine bay a bit:


And a pic from dinner with a friends 550i Msport Friday night:
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Old 04-20-2015, 09:13 AM
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2005 X5 4.8IS
The Blue ones are always FASTER....

Current Garage:
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Old 04-20-2015, 10:48 AM
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That AFe looks good. Glad all arrived and installed ok.

Nice info in the first posts too.
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Old 04-20-2015, 07:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMOKEY53 View Post
Would be keen to hear your thoughts on the BC's. I steered away from them because I couldn't find enough reviews for the e53.


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What are the BC's like?
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2005 3.0d Sport - Sapphire Black
Engine : Bluefin Superchip Tune,
Wheels & Sus: Style 168s (10.5s all round), H&R RDA Spacers, Bilstein B12, Eibach 40mm drop, Whiteline RSB
Exterior: Le Mans flares, 4.6is kit F&R
Interior: Dynavin N6, Blackvue DR650 dash cams

My Build Thread: http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...run-sheet.html
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  #10  
Old 04-21-2015, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RajB View Post
That AFe looks good. Glad all arrived and installed ok.

Nice info in the first posts too.
Thanks for the hook up Raj! It looks and sounds good. Not sure of any performance gains as I just don't see that being possible but it does sound pretty cool under heavy acceleration now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SMOKEY53 View Post
What are the BC's like?
The BC's are the greatest modification offered for these cars. I f*cking HATE the stock air suspension in these cars. It was a big part of why I sold the blue 4.8iS and almost made me sell this one. I am still toying around with dampening and getting the truck not to rub with the way I have it setup/drive it but overall I have zero regrets.

The install was done by a friend because I didn't want to battle with it on the floor in my garage but it seemed to be pretty easy. The fronts were 1-2-3. It helped that I replaced all of my front suspension so he didn't have to battle to much with anything but overall it was quick. The rear took him a bit more because we had to take the trunk apart and I installed extended adjusters for the dampening so that I had easy access to it if I ever want to stiffen the rear up more.

The finish and quality of them is great and they ride as smooth as my V3s did on my 750i for almost a 3rd of the price. The only issue I found was with the front camber plates because there isn't much room for adjustment due to the strut towers in our cars. The solution is to relocate the set bolts on top in or out depending on which way you want to camber them. I didn't even touch mine when we did the alignment and might replace them with stock mounts if possible just because I think they might be causing a little bit of noise.

Only thing left to do is code out the self-leveling light.
Feel free to fire off any additional questions.

I purchased them from Brian @ Pro-Spec Autosport - Welcome to Pro-Spec Website!
Sam @ Sams Euro Shop installed them

Both these guys are the shit and really great to deal with!
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