Is this definitely a window regulator problem? - Page 2

David.X5 · #1 05-24-2015, 10:32 PM

Here's a screen shot from the parts diagram. The plastic clip is part 7 (shown to the side). The special nut is part 6. The special bolt is part 5. It looks like it is pointing to the pulley, but that's not right - it attaches to the moving parts of the regulator (there are two plastic sliders that the motor moves up and down).

Here's a link that includes a photo: Amazon.com: 2 Genuine BMW Window Regulator Clips for Your BMW E53 X5: Automotive

The clip works like an expanding plastic anchor for drywall - if fits into the hole in the window, and expands when the bolt is tightened, but avoids metal-to-glass contact. I had one vibrate loose, too, so now I use some the weak "removable" locktight on the special nut and bolt.

Multibeemer · #2 05-24-2015, 11:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David.X5

Here's a screen shot from the parts diagram. The plastic clip is part 7 (shown to the side). The special nut is part 6. The special bolt is part 5. It looks like it is pointing to the pulley, but that's not right - it attaches to the moving parts of the regulator (there are two plastic sliders that the motor moves up and down).

Here's a link that includes a photo: Amazon.com: 2 Genuine BMW Window Regulator Clips for Your BMW E53 X5: Automotive

The clip works like an expanding plastic anchor for drywall - if fits into the hole in the window, and expands when the bolt is tightened, but avoids metal-to-glass contact. I had one vibrate loose, too, so now I use some the weak "removable" locktight on the special nut and bolt.

David,

I'll double check, but I believe the parts you're describing are intact on my regulator. They disintigrated on my drivers side regulator, which I replaced several years ago, but I believe they're all OK on my passenger side regulator. But I'll definitely check to make sure.

Joshdub · #3 05-25-2015, 12:20 AM

The handle assembly breaks and you can lose tension on the cable. It looks like that cable has no tension on it what so ever. The part you linked from AZautohaus is the handle assembly, and is known to be a problem area.

FYI, you can get the same handle from FCPeuro with a lifetime warranty.

puddinboo · #4 05-25-2015, 01:01 AM

I was just thinking that the spring could be broken on the electric latch, but its hard to tell since I can`t see either the latch or handle.

Multibeemer · #5 05-25-2015, 10:28 PM

I took another look, and confirmed that the plastic clips that hold the regulator to the window are in perfect condition, and the bolts are tight. So, something else is causing my window to move at a snails pace. I don't mind ordering and installing a new regulator if that's what I need to do, but I want to be as sure as I can that I wouldn't be throwing money away on something that isn't needed.

puddinboo · #6 05-25-2015, 10:36 PM

did you unplug motor and see if your getting at least 12v to the motor?

David.X5 · #7 05-25-2015, 10:45 PM

If you remove the regulator and motor, you can test them individually - the motor should spin forwards and backwards smoothly when reconnected to the switch. It can be operated after unbolting it from the regulator.

The regulator mechanism (pulley and sliders, etc) should slide by hand once the motor is removed (the gearing creates a lot of drag). It is no fun to tear it all apart just to troubleshoot, but that's the way to find out.

rayxi · #8 05-26-2015, 12:50 AM

It may be that the cable on the regulator has jumped the drive gear that's underneath the motor. You won't see it unless you remove the motor. That's one of the problems I had on the regulator on my E46 that I just replaced. The other problem was a broken clip of course.

Joshdub · #9 05-26-2015, 12:54 AM

It's probably the motor. Remove it and test it now.before it completely goes out. If it goes out you'll need to cut the regulator wires to get the window detached from the regulator.

Multibeemer · #10 05-26-2015, 12:27 PM

Thanks for the suggestions. Looks like I've got lots of things to test. I'll tear it all apart asap and try to figure out if it's the motor, the drive gear, the regulator, or something else.

Do I have to take the regulator completely out to remove the motor, or will removing the bolts that hold it the to frame without actually removing the regulator give me enough room to disconnect the motor so I can test it?