DIY: 2006 X5 3.0i CCV Overhaul

[cn90]

DIY: 2006 X5 3.0i CCV Overhaul

Disclaimer: if I have to do this CCV again, I’d not keep the stock setup, it is a PITA job. Instead, I’d have done the mod by BavarianE39, it is simpler and better. See link by BavarianE39:

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...-problems.html


-----
However, since I have OFH Gasket leak, and I already bought the parts for stock CCV from BMW, here you go. Also, the CCV job is much much easier with the OFH out of the way!

No need to remove intake manifold for CCV job!

Make sure you read the links I wrote in the past, it will make this job easier:

* OFH Gasket for 1998 528i:
1998 528I Oil Filter Housing Gasket & “Freeze Plugs” Repair (E39) - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums

* OFH bolts stripping issue for M54 engine:
Help Oil Filter Housing Bolt Stripped?

* Fan Clutch Nut ---> how to install easily using poultry cord:
DIY - Fan Clutch Nut Installation - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums


GENERAL NOTE:

- Make a list (and label) each connector because you will disconnect quite a few connectors!

- During installation, make sure you re-connect them all using your checklist.

- OFH: 2 connectors

- ICV: 1 connector

- Throttle Body: 1 connector

- Alternator: one connector and one 13-mm nut for the red cable.

- Air Mass Meter: 1 connector

- Oil all CCV pipe connector before installation, it is easier to do it with oil!


1. Parts List: #1, #2, #3 sold as a kit. I also bought #4 and #7. Don’t forget dipstick housing O-ring.













2. Oil leak under the car:






3. Fan Clutch removal. Look up PB Blaster, screwdriver trick on how to counter-hold:






4. I have hydraulic tensioner, so 8-mm hex socket is the way to go. Make a diagram of belt routing so it makes installation easier.









5. “Too lazy” to remove the battery cable (spare tire off, this bracket, that bracket etc.), I did it the ghetto way, simply use a string to tie the alternator cable out of the way. It works great. Saved 15 minutes playing with trunk battery disconnection etc.!






6. Alternator is VALEO for my car.






7. Once the Air Mass Meter is off.
- DISA: two (2) T40 bolts
- ICV: two (2) T40 bolts
- Throttle Body: four (4) 10-mm bolts








---

[cn90]

8. CCV unit is held by two (2) T25 screws. I removed the foam and disconnect that pipe first. Install the CCV, then connect the pipe later. Then install the two (2) T25 screws.









9. Dipstick housing: 10-mm nut and 13-mm bolt. Once it is out of the car, clean the double-wall channel with brake cleaner. At 116K, mine is still open, no clog, a testament of highway drive. So avoid short trips if you can!
REMOVE the old O-ring from the engine. Install the new O-ring on the dipstick housing first!





10. For OFH 6 bolts, read on how to prevent galling and stripped threads. Once the 6 bolts are off (label them as you remove them!), I left the PS Pump in place (too lazy to remove the PS Pump LOL). I used a hook tool and remove old gasket. Clean the groove with some Q-tips. Make sure no debris left behind.
Smeared some grease on gasket and laid it in the groove.


11. Clean the engine block well, make sure you don’t use paper towel as this can leave bits and pieces behind. Use a rag.
- Read the link above re how to torque the 6 bolts. Basically do it in stages, be patient, wait 5-10 min between re-torquing to avoid leak later.





12. Once done, spray some engine cleaner and rinse with gentle water to wash of oil leak.


13. Check to be sure ALL connectors are re-connected!!!


That is all boys and girls, I don’t want to do this job again, my back hurts LOL!!!


PS: Anyway, since my CCV is now back to stock and the OFH gasket is replaced, I’d report back in 1K miles re oil consumption!!!








---

[Ricky Bobby]

Cam wonderful post my friend thanks for doing it! My back was killing me after doing my CCV in June 2014, I kept all insulation on, did not remove OFH (at 75k miles I am not leaking from it, yet), and replaced dipstick guide tube with single wall updated design. I think I sat in Epsom salts bath for weeks lol!

[cn90]

A few notes before I forget:

1. When d/c the Vanos oil feed (19-mm wrench), since I kept the 2 washers, try to keep the 2 washers in the same orientation because they have distinct indentation from torquing the bolt. I use ZipLoc and rubber band to tie them together and also to keep debris out of the line.

2. In theory, you can do the CCV with the OFH in place, but it is 100x easier if you remove the OFH. Since both of these items (CCV and OFH Gasket) need to be done around 100K+, it is best to do both jobs together. Shooting 2 birds with one stone, so to speak.

3. During installation, the Vanos oil feed line hit the CCV pipe. I had to make minor adjustment to the Vanos oil feed line so it does not collide with the CCV pipe.

4. Clean the throttle body and the ICV since they are out of the car.

5. My DISA Valve looked fine at 116K.


Personally, I don't care for this M54 CCV shitty design and the time involved. I did it simply because I already bought the parts from BMW and perhaps wanted to keep the stock look.

Next time: I'd do the mod using standard hoses as outlined in BavarianE39 posts.

[Joshdub]

Thanks for this. My CCV kit + dipstick guide tube and OFHG have been sitting in a box waiting to be done.

[Joshdub]

You must have missed the part where he replaced the OFHG. And what is so dangerous about disconnecting the alt without disconnecting the battery?

[stackz]

let that big exposed end of that alternator charge wire hit some metal with the battery connected and you'll get a nice surprise.

[cn90]

Originally Posted by trader4

This is the first time I've heard of needing to take the alternator out to replace the oil separator. I did mine without removing the alternator.

Also, it's a very, very bad and dangerous to be working near the alternator, never mine actually taking it out, without disconnecting the battery cable, for obvious reasons. But your car, your choice.

1. Yes Sir, you didn't read carefully. With the OFH out of the car, the CCV job is much easier.
In order to remove the OFH, the alternator needs to come out.
However, as mentioned above, I left the PS Pump in place.

2. No it is not dangerous working near alternator as long as one knows what he/she is doing.
The only source for electrical spark is the big red cable that connects to the back side of the alternator, which I already tied out of the way as shown.

[cn90]

Originally Posted by trader4

...You have a positive cable about the size of one of your fingers going from the alternator to the battery. That cable
is held on using a big ring terminal, with an exposed end and nut....

OK,

I am a safety-conscious person and I am not worried, why?

1. That red cable (to the alternator) is very short, it cannot move too much.
Plus the surrounding environment is all plastic (Plastic Intake Manifold etc.). Not too much metal around this cable.

2. Coming from E39 (1998 528i) where disconnecting the battery cable is a snap, the E53 battery cable d/c procedure is a PITA: removing spare tire, this and that just to get to the battery cable. I have back pain, so I skip that non-sense.

3. Worried? Then tie it with some string as mentioned, then cover the end with black electrical tape. Then tie it out of the way. Trust me, if you do it this way, you will save the time and non-sense of going to the trunk to d/c the battery cable.

[cn90]

A random thought for future...

The pain of this CCV job is from the fact that the CCV itself is buried deep under the Intake Manifold, necessitating removing a whole bunch of stuff (DISA, ICV, Throttle body) just to get to the Separator.

I wonder if one can relocate the Separator to somewhere above the Intake Manifold. Then make some kind of hoses to the dipstick housing, and to the intake manifold nipples as designed. So the only difference is in the "new" location of the Separator.
This way, future CCV is a piece of cake.
Plus, with the Separator sitting on top of the I.M., oil has to travel up a slope to get there, so less oil consumption, theoretically speaking!