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#1
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Any warnings w/audio upgrade?
For speakers I'm going with JBL GTO608c (6.5" component) in front door/pillar, and JBL GTO628 (6.5" coax) for back doors. I think I've read that even the non-DSP amp is frequency specific for each speaker, so expecting that it won't sound right & will have to be replaced? I've been looking at a couple of affordable (~$150ish) 5 channel amps...anything I really do or don't want to consider? I don't have one sitting here because still not clear on the need & what the level converter buys me with the OEM amp. If I can use existing and it's decent enough I save the effort of interior disassembly & cable running for new amp. If OEM amp survives the experiment, thinking of adding slim powered sub in the future. If new amp goes in, a sub will go in with it. I've been reading up on the forums & watching YouTube videos, and it seems like the non-DSP swap is straightforward enough. I still wonder if I'm missing something... One thing I'm cautious about - I'm OK w/losing some OBC funtions (range, etc.) but can I lockout or screw up something else? Appreciate any feedback... Chris |
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#2
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Not sure what your experience will be....I have had a fairly expensive setup in mine. Focal BE, Alpine F1, etc. I used a very $$ transformer as I did get floor noise induced into the system without it.
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#3
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Well, I'm adding Kenwood 400W KACM1804 to the mix. My thinking is I can add amp in dash & use OEM speaker wire.
If that runs the doors well, maybe a KSC-SW11 powered sub joins in... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Last edited by FellowsheepTech; 07-06-2015 at 09:36 AM. |
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#4
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Still not there...
A fairly long weekend in the garage:
- pulled stock MID/CD out of dash Thursday night - Friday, soldered up metra harness to HU harness - pulled stock speakers from doors & pillars (left dash for now) - removed/replaced speakers in door pods (let silicone sit over night) - attempted SWC connection/programming & gave up. Instruction state "must" cut & use wire at steering column, but didn't find how to access & identify that wire. Saw the "right" wire at harness however & tried to use that one. Programming always failed a few buttons in, I think due to other communication on the ibus (may try again at column). Already spent a lot to time searching, but ** Can anyone tell me how to get to this wire? - Saturday installed new speakers (2ohm) in doors Opted to use stock wiring for tweaters/woofers in front, and omit JBL crossovers, as intention was to use stock amp if possible. Used coax in back doors and left mid wires unconnected. **Should have photo'd all wires for future reference dangit! - Completed HU fitting w/USB & Aux fished to ashtray, metra dash kit - Plugged up stock amp & tested...all speakers working With some balancing, not horrible, but in dire need of more bass (and I've never had a subwoofer installed in anything yet...) - wired in KSC-SW11 (slim powered sub) in boot by tapping LR/RR wires at amp, and remote switch wire (lavender/white) at unused CD changer plug. Used power & ground blocks, and lo...no rear sound at all. This was the one & only point I didn't have battery disconnected, so figured I confused the amp. Disconnected battery & revised sub connections, reconnected & worked! With balancing, sounds a lot better! - Fished sub remote from console, under carpet with stock cable run & back to boot. - Sunday, subsequent testing/balancing & noted rear out again. Shut off vehicle, replugged amp, and working again. Same thing again later. Becoming convinced the stock amp isn't going to stay... - Monday morning, even after replugging amp no rear sound or sub. Clearly not done yet. Still have Scoshe SLC-4 level converter & Kenwood KACM1804 that I can utilize. Just can't decide if I want to put the amp in the dash (small enough) or boot. Regardless I need an accurate pinout of the amp connector: 2003 E53, no DSP, no Nav/CD. ** Any help here? |
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