TIMING CHAIN NIGHTMARE

[JAX01X5]

Ok, So here it goes. Started up great ran for 30 min just fine. shut it down for 15 min , started it back up ran ruff , scanner says p0011 code bank "1". I had a second set of can sensors, changed them out code was still there. I had an extra vanos solenoid , changed it out problem went away and purred like a kitten. Shut it down and started back up and P0011 on bank "2" . So I am assuming the vanos solenoid on bank "2" is sticking or defective. I will have to order a new pair of solenoids and change them out.
Just a thought Is it possible that the Vanos piston is sticking since the seals are new?
Couple other small issues , D/S valve cover gasket is leaking which really don't surprise me since it kept trying to fall out while I was installing the cover, so I will have to replace that again.
Condensor fan not working , maybe the Bentley manual can help with the diag but first I need to get the engine running properly.

[BimmerM3inGA]

Two steps forward, one step back. I feel ya, brother!

[diyanich]

Did you follow the step described in this video?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XiPK...ature=youtu.be

I have over advanced codes for both banks,but it runs smooth except for the 30 seconds or so starting 5 seconds after the cold start.VANOS are rattling.

I don't remember reading or I missed that part and don't really want to go through it all again,but did you use Beisan seals?

I have to open it up again for the re–timing or at least adjusting the CPS wheels,but since it's running just fine,it makes me lazy to touch something for now.Check engine light is annoying though.

Originally Posted by JAX01X5

Ok, So here it goes. Started up great ran for 30 min just fine. shut it down for 15 min , started it back up ran ruff , scanner says p0011 code bank "1". I had a second set of can sensors, changed them out code was still there. I had an extra vanos solenoid , changed it out problem went away and purred like a kitten. Shut it down and started back up and P0011 on bank "2" . So I am assuming the vanos solenoid on bank "2" is sticking or defective. I will have to order a new pair of solenoids and change them out.
Just a thought Is it possible that the Vanos piston is sticking since the seals are new?
Couple other small issues , D/S valve cover gasket is leaking which really don't surprise me since it kept trying to fall out while I was installing the cover, so I will have to replace that again.
Condensor fan not working , maybe the Bentley manual can help with the diag but first I need to get the engine running properly.

[diyanich]

Aux fan stopped working well after the timing chain DIY.It still works but I would say a bit lazily.
I am wondering if there's some ground or some other connection problem.Because if I unplug and plug it back,it always starts with the A/C and spins a bit when I crank it after sitting overnight and then it stops doing that,but I can hear it once in a while.
If there a code 32 or 33 ( I don't remember well which number) in INPA?

Originally Posted by JAX01X5

Condensor fan not working , maybe the Bentley manual can help with the diag but first I need to get the engine running properly.

[JAX01X5]

Originally Posted by diyanich

Did you follow the step described in this video?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XiPK...ature=youtu.be

I have over advanced codes for both banks,but it runs smooth except for the 30 seconds or so starting 5 seconds after the cold start.VANOS are rattling.

I don't remember reading or I missed that part and don't really want to go through it all again,but did you use Beisan seals?

I have to open it up again for the re–timing or at least adjusting the CPS wheels,but since it's running just fine,it makes me lazy to touch something for now.Check engine light is annoying though.

Yes, I used Beisan seals also used the Beisan procedure for timing . I also read the G.A.S procedure which is where I bought my timing tools and they take it a step further by turning the motor over after setting the "CPS wheels and set them again. I find the tech in the video stating that if you remove the plug and insert a 5 mm allen and if it passes thru you are all set to be ridiculous. There is so much room for error in that statement . It is a good reference point but not exact. If that were true why would you need to buy special tools for timing.
My problem is in the VANOS solenoid sticking after acceleration and allowing the Vanos to stay in the advanced position. changing the Solenoid should fix that problem.

I have 12V+ and - at the fan connector and I also get about a one second signal from the DME to the fan and starts to move and then I loose the DME signal . I think but not sure that the DME senses a motor failure and no longer sends the impulse signal.

I don't have INPA software yet but will have it soon. Trying to figure out the best place to buy it..

[milesz]

Originally Posted by BimmerM3inGA

Having done this job on an E38 740i, which has the same engine, I can offer you some advice: The job is totally doable if you have the tools and patience. BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL WHEN SETTING THE TIMING UPON REASSEMBLY. If you haven't already, go to this site and read the tutorial for performing the VANOS repair.

Beisan Systems - Procedures - M62TU Vanos Procedure

You may not need to actually perform the VANOS repair, but the instructions for setting the timing are very detailed and accurate. Much better than I could find anywhere else. My only problem is that the layout is a little hard to follow. So I copied/pasted it all into a PDF that's easier to follow. Hit me up on PM and I can email a copy to you.

If you're comfortable taking apart a very complex engine and can follow the instructions, there no reason you can't do this job.

I am starting the process and could really use a copy you pasted together. My email is [email protected].

Thanks in advance

[X53Jay4.8is]

Originally Posted by milesz

I am starting the process and could really use a copy you pasted together. My email is [email protected].

Thanks in advance

Per his posting You need to PM this guy for the instructions that you seek.

[bcredliner]

The link to Beisan is a good one. I have attached a video for visual help from Youtube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Io6eBHjwf1g

[PR1AWRet]

I went through this last year. The seals are all Reinz. I also used the Besian procedure. If you look at the front timing chain cover with the valve covers off, is it even with the head. With the new seal sometimes it wont squash down and it will stick up a millimeter which throws the cam sensor off by that mm and throw the code. Both banks need to be within 12 degrees of the crank shaft rotation. The front covers need to be loose when installing the valve covers. I tightened the valve cover then the front cover and still had that mm. Once I accounted for that mm on the wheel it went into time. It only has to be adjusted a very small bit. If the hole matches up with the factory inspection hole just move it a small bit. I moved the wheel about 4-5 mm the first time when it should have been the one mm or less. That was my problem.

[X53Jay4.8is]

Originally Posted by PR1AWRet

I went through this last year. The seals are all Reinz. I also used the Besian procedure. If you look at the front timing chain cover with the valve covers off, is it even with the head. With the new seal sometimes it wont squash down and it will stick up a millimeter which throws the cam sensor off by that mm and throw the code. Both banks need to be within 12 degrees of the crank shaft rotation. The front covers need to be loose when installing the valve covers. I tightened the valve cover then the front cover and still had that mm. Once I accounted for that mm on the wheel it went into time. It only has to be adjusted a very small bit. If the hole matches up with the factory inspection hole just move it a small bit. I moved the wheel about 4-5 mm the first time when it should have been the one mm or less. That was my problem.

I find that when I do timing covers with new seals I uses a screw driver through the cam sensor hole to apply set pressure of the cover and tighten the bolts down so all lines up perfectly. Works every time.