Measuring compressor clutch voltage

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by majidmo

How do you take the front plate off? I am using T30 to open the center bolt but the whole thing keep turning with it.

Air Impact or impact driver.

[axgordon]

I used large pliers to hold outer plate. Just be careful not to damage it.

[upallnight]

Here's a link to a you tube video on how to remove the clutch. If you don't have the proper tool better to take it in. Doing it without the proper tool may cause additional damages which will require more money to repair.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNx0X4INfiw

[caseyjay]

Originally Posted by majidmo

Hi,
the voltage feeding to clutch and it was 4.8v instead of 12v or 0

I also have a Calsonic compressor which has just stopped engaging - my tests showed a variable voltage was being fed - cycling from 4.8 to 12v as long as the engine is running - is that to be expected?

So I guess it's safe to test jump the clutch with 12v which doesn't work for me - if I cannot hear the click/get the clutch magnetized I can only reckon on a failed coil??

[upallnight]

You can also use an ohm meter to verify that the magnetic coil does not have a break in the winding. Just place a lead to the wire to the clutch and the other lead to the compressor body.

Check out South Main Auto repairs video on ac clutch.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YirLz1j-vCY

Eric O puts out a lot of Great Videos on repairing cars, so if you find his videos helpful, give him a thumb up or subscribe to this channel.

[iansanderson]

I have the Calsonic compressor as well in my '04. Mine was blowing warm at first, then working after a few minutes or if I pressed the MAX button. After some searching on here, the consensus was bad compressor. As far as how the IHKA regulates, I believe it has to see a small amount of pressure building in the system before it will activate the compressor fully using Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM) as some sort of safeguard.

I replaced mine with a used one from an '06 with 50K. Works perfectly now. When filling the system, I used the function "Fill on both high and low" on the RobinAir and it went in without a hitch. I had previously tried a high-side only fill, and it only took about 100 grams.

[caseyjay]

Originally Posted by caseyjay

I can only reckon on a failed coil??

INPA revealed a 'Magnetic Clutch' error message and resistance check confirmed this. Just replaced the coil only - cost about $40 plus a new set of snap ring pliers.

Job itself took a couple of hours, but over 3 days trying to work those snap rings, doing it with compressor in situ requires some patience and the right set of tools.

For info, that means quality straight inside and outside pliers but not too long, to make clearance between radiator and compressor.

All in, very happy to get cold air back for only $40...

[caseyjay]

whilst I did have cold air, this lasted about 20 mins before the climate panel went out. I suspected a fuse and sure enough #48 had gone. From some research, here's my thinking:

I refitted clutch as I found it and not sure of gap (it does feel very close), cannot find the spec except for 3 sheets of paper.... Is it possible that incorrect gap can blow this circuit?