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  #11  
Old 08-22-2015, 11:06 AM
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I had an issue with mine once where the "-" button (fan speed) was stuck and it kept the unit turned off - it wasn't obvious until I unstuck that button....


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  #12  
Old 08-22-2015, 12:41 PM
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I have seen the ones for sale on eBay are lighted like that (12v power and ground). Seems ok.

I would check continuity with the key off. Check voltages with the key on, engine off.

I think it depends how the FSR resistor fails. If it overloads the IHKA module, perhaps it can burn it out. Just a wild guess
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  #13  
Old 08-22-2015, 01:42 PM
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Sorry are you suggesting checking the continuity for the fuses abd then check the harness plug for voltage? I just find it weird that the three prong black harness plug has no power.
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  #14  
Old 08-22-2015, 03:15 PM
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If it was me...

With key out, I would pull the two fuses in question, measure resistance of the bare fuse - should be close to zero. Measure the resistance from the brown wire on the ihka cable to the metal chassis - should be close to zero.

Then, set the key to "on", but don't start the car, and with the fuses out, use your voltmeter to make sure you have 12V on one side of the fuse holder for each of those two fuses. If you do, reinstall the fuses. This would mean the circuit is OK up to the fuse holder. If not, you have blown something big, start checking the 30A and 50A fuses...

Next, measure voltage in the cables going to the IHKA controller. Make sure you find the two main power wires I mentioned by their color codes. They may not be in the same connector. The power wires are heavier gauge wire than the sensor wires. With the key on, you should have 12V power on each.

anything between 12V and 12.6V is normal with the engine not running - depends on the condition of your battery. If the voltage drops below 12V, you have a battery problem, a power drain or have been tinkering too much without running the engine to recharge the battery.
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  #15  
Old 08-22-2015, 03:28 PM
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Thanks David ill keep you posted. .much appreciated
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  #16  
Old 08-22-2015, 04:14 PM
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David the fuse holder at 34 and 48 position has 12.2 v when i check one side of the fuse block. The resistance on the brown wire is 0.3 but more importantly no voltage and either the red wire or the middle green one using the chassis as a ground or even the brown as a ground. Where does that power connection (the three wires lead to) cause that connector has no power. Is it possible another fuse or ground is the culprit? Ill double check all fuses and let you know Here is a pic
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  #17  
Old 08-22-2015, 06:14 PM
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David could the wire from the Hvac be going under the passrnger side carpet? Look what i found under the carpet. Interesting enough i have no electricsl issues except for the Hvac and a purge valve p0444 and a fuel sending unit side a... guess i better remove the water. This maybe secondary to my prpblem though
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  #18  
Old 08-22-2015, 06:21 PM
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Sorry man - Get it dried out and then start figuring out which circuit(s) are damaged. The problems may get much worse than just your AC. Use a wet vac to start, then fans, dehumidifier, etc., whatever you can find. I would probably disconnect the battery now, to limit any more electrical gremlins. Once it is dry, use compressed air to blow remaining water out of electrical connections and deoxit electrical contact cleaner to help remove corrosion.

I don't know how the wire runs, but there are many sensors and actuators in that area that are all part of IHKA. It is really hard to know what is doing what
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  #19  
Old 08-22-2015, 06:23 PM
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Well thats an issue. I'd fix the source of the water entry first and then start otherwise troubleshooting the wiring.
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  #20  
Old 08-22-2015, 06:49 PM
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Buddy im not impressed. Vacuumed up the water, it was leaking frim the front corner of the window and trickling down Funny thing is everythong works except the hvac....how does the hvac get power and is this related? Let me know if you can while i go drown my sorrows in a keg of beer
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