Should I attempt my first brake service or pay the price?

[RFaber]

Pagid, Akebono, EBC, Raybestos EHT, Wagner for pads, Zimmerman, Brembo for rotors? Personally I have Akebono on mine, they havent given me any issues, and i would use them again. bought them off Craigslist from a guy who sold his X5, they were priced right. In the future, i might search the forum here and see whats new and better (or not!) My rotors are still the stockers, (maybe not original but still oem)
basically ive found you get what you pay for! Dont forget to get the sensor wire! (good practice to change it!) some good quality Caliper/brake lube doesnt hurt either! Ask at your local parts store, what they have to offer?
my local guys have no problems recommending low, mid and performance grade stuff
good luck! Oh, and make sure your jack is up to snuff, these things are HEAVY!! I use a hockey puck (because I'm Canadian!) to act as a jack pad!

[upallnight]

Plenty of how to do brakes on a BMW on Youtube. Get either the special tool for pushing back the piston into the caliper, or a big C-clamp.

Get a decent set of jack stands and a good hydraulic jack. Don't use the jack that came with the car. Most auto parts store like Advanc e auto, o'reilley, pep boy will loan you the special tool for free. You just need to leave a deposit with them.

[Joshdub]

Originally Posted by kado1976

So what are some good brands that are cheaper but still decent quality?

Zimmerman and Bosch are solid choices for rotors. Brembo and Stoptech are usually more expensive I believe.

Akebono and Bosch pads are great and not very expensive.

[StephenVA]

Where to order: RockAuto Parts Catalog

What to order:
Pads
Rear: POWER STOP 17683 Z17 Evolution Plus; Ceramic; w/Hardware Kits $23.79
FRONT: POWER STOP 17681 Z17 Evolution Plus; Ceramic; w/Hardware Kits $28.79

Rotors
Front: CENTRIC 12534050 High Carbon Alloy $63.89
Rear: CENTRIC 12534051 High Carbon Alloy $47.79

Pad Info:
Z17 Evolution Plus; Ceramic; w/Hardware Kits
The Z17 Evolution Plus product line combines our performance proven Z16 Evolution Ceramic pads with application specific brake hardware kits. Each hardware kit will include stainless steel abutment clips (where applicable), anti-rattle hardware clips, piston clips or bushings and sleeves as required for installation. OEM Positive Mold Technology for consistent fade free performance
Dual active rubber shims provide 6 times more noise reduction
Chamfered and slotted like the OE pad
Most applications include Premium Stainless Steel Hardware Kit
Thermal Scorched for fast break-in
Rotor Info
High Carbon Alloy
Centric 125 Series High Carbon Brake Rotors contain an advanced metallurgy that greatly reduces the possibility of pad squeal especially with higher friction, European style brake pad compounds. Proprietary Molybdenum and Chromium alloys resist rotor cracking during high performance use or repeat stop situations. This alloy also increases the friction couple improving brake performance and stopping power. Increased Chromium and Carbon content is also more resistant to oxidation.
Power Alloy
-Superior resistance to cracking due to thermal stress
-Increased molybdenum content that extends reliability, service life and helps reduce NVH “noise” issues
Double disc ground
Mill balanced
Black E-Coating on non-friction surfaces enhances open wheel appearance
Symmetric split core castings for Increased strength and stability

These will provide great stopping power, no noise, easy DIY install, coated center hubs so the rust look will not visit you shortly. If the brake light is on add in the brake sensors. Bleed the brakes as this is one area that most owners skimp on maintenance. Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air and turns brown with age. The water will eat away and boil away when the brakes are applied, until system failure. Recommended by 90% of the board forum. The 10%: Some live in the desert where humidity is 2%. The other 9% live with their heads in the sand and don't care as the vehicles are at the end of their life cycles. Often called "last owner".

I personally replace the rubber boots and pins but those are options on what is considered a "Brake Job". On a DIY I replace everything or rebuild it (caliper pistons and seals). Questions: Uneven pad wear left to right side?Brake fluid looks like used motor oil? Rotors have hot spots? Find metal fragments inside the front wheels from metal to metal touch on used up pads? Rubber brake lines from the frame to calipers have cracks? Did the hood look like you were opening a coffin when you purchased the car?
When in doubt just replace it. How often do you go through brakes? Once every 3 -5 years? Cheap insurance.

Fixing any car to proper function and normal performance level, is really all about base-lining components to a known good standard. Test everything, check everything, replace what does not measure up, and now you have a vehicle that starts in the morning, and will provide happy motoring. What more can you ask of a 10 year old vehicle? Your "investment return" is the smile on your face when driving.

Like everyone has posted, DIY is only simple hand tools, a shop jack and a few jack stands, a tray (cardboard) to catch the dirt, and extra foot to bleed the brakes if you don't have a power bleeder, and a short hose and a jar to catch the brake fluid. All of these items will pay themselves back on one brake job.

You want Cheap?
Pad $7
Rotors $25 Front, $18 Rear

What are they? From China, Cheap and will fit. Life? Should be short for driver and parts!

[kado1976]

Originally Posted by StephenVA

Where to order: RockAuto Parts Catalog

What to order:
Pads
Rear: POWER STOP 17683 Z17 Evolution Plus; Ceramic; w/Hardware Kits $23.79
FRONT: POWER STOP 17681 Z17 Evolution Plus; Ceramic; w/Hardware Kits $28.79

Rotors
Front: CENTRIC 12534050 High Carbon Alloy $63.89
Rear: CENTRIC 12534051 High Carbon Alloy $47.79

Pad Info:
Z17 Evolution Plus; Ceramic; w/Hardware Kits
The Z17 Evolution Plus product line combines our performance proven Z16 Evolution Ceramic pads with application specific brake hardware kits. Each hardware kit will include stainless steel abutment clips (where applicable), anti-rattle hardware clips, piston clips or bushings and sleeves as required for installation. OEM Positive Mold Technology for consistent fade free performance
Dual active rubber shims provide 6 times more noise reduction
Chamfered and slotted like the OE pad
Most applications include Premium Stainless Steel Hardware Kit
Thermal Scorched for fast break-in
Rotor Info
High Carbon Alloy
Centric 125 Series High Carbon Brake Rotors contain an advanced metallurgy that greatly reduces the possibility of pad squeal especially with higher friction, European style brake pad compounds. Proprietary Molybdenum and Chromium alloys resist rotor cracking during high performance use or repeat stop situations. This alloy also increases the friction couple improving brake performance and stopping power. Increased Chromium and Carbon content is also more resistant to oxidation.
Power Alloy
-Superior resistance to cracking due to thermal stress
-Increased molybdenum content that extends reliability, service life and helps reduce NVH “noise” issues
Double disc ground
Mill balanced
Black E-Coating on non-friction surfaces enhances open wheel appearance
Symmetric split core castings for Increased strength and stability

These will provide great stopping power, no noise, easy DIY install, coated center hubs so the rust look will not visit you shortly. If the brake light is on add in the brake sensors. Bleed the brakes as this is one area that most owners skimp on maintenance. Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air and turns brown with age. The water will eat away and boil away when the brakes are applied, until system failure. Recommended by 90% of the board forum. The 10%: Some live in the desert where humidity is 2%. The other 9% live with their heads in the sand and don't care as the vehicles are at the end of their life cycles. Often called "last owner".

I personally replace the rubber boots and pins but those are options on what is considered a "Brake Job". On a DIY I replace everything or rebuild it (caliper pistons and seals). Questions: Uneven pad wear left to right side?Brake fluid looks like used motor oil? Rotors have hot spots? Find metal fragments inside the front wheels from metal to metal touch on used up pads? Rubber brake lines from the frame to calipers have cracks? Did the hood look like you were opening a coffin when you purchased the car?
When in doubt just replace it. How often do you go through brakes? Once every 3 -5 years? Cheap insurance.

Fixing any car to proper function and normal performance level, is really all about base-lining components to a known good standard. Test everything, check everything, replace what does not measure up, and now you have a vehicle that starts in the morning, and will provide happy motoring. What more can you ask of a 10 year old vehicle? Your "investment return" is the smile on your face when driving.


You want Cheap?
Pad $7
Rotors $25 Front, $18 Rear

What are they? From China, Cheap and will fit. Life? Should be short for driver and parts!

From what most mechanics tools me you dont need to bleed the brakes unless you remove the brake lines from the caliper. Simple vent the system by loosening the master cylinder should be fine. Hmmm.

[kado1976]

Well I finished the job. It took longer than it should have mainly because I had the rotor seized on the hub and did not have a rubber mallet or sledge. Once I got one I put a couple lug nuts on and gave it a couple good wacks near the center around the hub and it released.

I ended up just buying some Duralast Rotors from Auto Zone. They should be fine. In parts I spent roughly $250 which was much better than $800 the shop wanted.

My old pads had literally no pad left it was metal on metal. How it get that way? The damn sensor was not even connected and I wasn't pay attention visually like I should have.

So far so couple commutes and every feels and sounds fine. Ill let you know if I die in following weeks via poltergeist.

[StephenVA]

Brake bleeding is the removal all fluid, dirt, contaminates from the brake lines. It also takes out any air trapped in the lines. If the lines are opened, then bleeding is a must. If not see below....

The people you are listening to are correct, you do not "have" to do it. The procedure is called proper maintenance for long life and function. Want a firm and consistent brake pedal feel? Flush the brakes lines and calipers. The procedure is simple and heads off additional issues and problems down the road. Brake fluid is CHEAP! Your brake system is not.

[StephenVA]

Originally Posted by kado1976

Well I finished the job. It took longer than it should have mainly because I had the rotor seized on the hub and did not have a rubber mallet or sledge. Once I got one I put a couple lug nuts on and gave it a couple good wacks near the center around the hub and it released.

I ended up just buying some Duralast Rotors from Auto Zone. They should be fine. In parts I spent roughly $250 which was much better than $800 the shop wanted.

My old pads had literally no pad left it was metal on metal. How it get that way? The damn sensor was not even connected and I wasn't pay attention visually like I should have.

So far so couple commutes and every feels and sounds fine. Ill let you know if I die in following weeks via poltergeist.

Congrats on a successful DIY project. What is next on the list?

[kado1976]

Originally Posted by StephenVA

Congrats on a successful DIY project. What is next on the list?

Next is rear suspension refresh. I have an annoying squeak in the rear. Im pretty sure its the rear upper control arm bushing. Which im guess is sealed and cant not be lubed or anything. So I will do Upper and possible lower arm and most likely shocks in rear. Up front is pretty fresh had complete over haul about 70k ago while it was under an extended warranty.

[crystalworks]

Congrats. Brakes on BMW's are very easy and saves a ton of money.

I usually get the kit from brakeoverstock.com for ~$320 that includes front + rear rotors, pads, and sensors. They are a super cheap rotor but I've used them on 10+ vehicles and while not as good as Zimmerman, Brembo, etc... I've also never had an issue with safety, noise, short life, etc in daily driving situations.

Brakeoverstock - Products - 2006 BMW X5 4.8iS

I'm sure some here would advise against this "brand" (Callahan) as they are really inexpensive... but as I said... I've never had an issue.