Transmission rebuild

[skubasteve]

Next step is the rear main seal, while I've got the trans off. I removed the 9 bolts holding the flexplate, and the flexplate won't budge. There is a tiny bit of rust and I hit it with some PB blaster, which is still soaking. Wondering if anyone else ran into this. I'm thinking i might need a 4-jaw puller if I can't get it loose.

[RRPhil]

Originally Posted by skubasteve

Question on reassembly process:

I have my D/E assembly back in the transmission, and I’ve installed the large snap ring that has a bevel on each side. The snap ring is engaging the groves to about half of the groove depth. The manual describes using a tool and hammering the snap ring towards the case in order to get it seated. I am concerned about doing this because this would force the D/E assembly further into the housing, and I can’t be 100% positive the D/E assembly is fully engaged with the planetary gearset. I put the gearset in first then put the D/E assembly in (the manual says to put the gearset and the D/E assembly together first before installing both into the housing, which would allow verification of engagement before installation). The holes in the housing look like they are lined up nicely with the holes in the D/E housing.

Has anyone been in this spot? Is it okay to bang away at the snap ring?

Sorry, I missed this post. The tapered snap ring is tapped down into its groove to ensure that the D/E clutch drum is held hard against the abutment face in the maincase and that there’s no clearance for it to move. As you mentioned, you know when the drum is in the correct position because the machined spot faces for the C & D clutch hydraulic feeds line up exactly with the corresponding holes in the maincase so that you can insert the rubber jump tubes.

Phil

[skubasteve]

I used this to remove my stubborn flexplate. It was perfectly suited to the job. Autozone A/C pulley puller 27001.

OEM/A/C pulley puller 27001 - Read Reviews on OEM #27001


Thanks Phil for the input on the snap ring.

[Spanker]

So what was the outcome? Transmission up and running? Any problems?

[skubasteve]

Thanks for the question, and sorry for the slow response.

It works perfectly. I’m really happy with it. Knock on wood.

A few items to note:

• I wish I had taken more pictures of the transmission before I pulled it off, especially of all the wires and how they are routed. I was able to piece it together with a few pictures I had and some I found online
• The o-ring for the output shaft was not included in the ZF kit. I found the part number in the parts catalog and ordered it from Eriksson Industries, where I ordered all of my other ZF parts. I can’t recommend Eriksson enough. I chose them because they are 100 miles or so away from where I live so I get my stuff next day, and I found their service to be really great, and the pricing is excellent as well. Also, the parts catalog has a lot of great drawings and other information; I referred to it at least as often as the rebuild guide
• I ended up replacing the A clutch fibers, steels, and spring due to some signs of scorching. I believe this is a symptom of the bearing/o-ring failure (I think RRPhil commented on this in one of his threads). It was about $150-$160 for the A clutch parts. In hindsight, I should have just replaced all of the fibers and steels as I think the complete kit is only $350 or so

Thanks for all of the help offered on this forum; I really appreciate it. There’s no way I could have done it on my own.

Steve