2001 E53 M54 Fuse 61 drawing 2.5a after sleep mode 16 minute?

[Cora]

I have confirmed the in cabin fuses are all intact and do not show any sign of issue. I have reviewed video and feel good about the black/slate wire being explained as the activation wire. This explains why previously someone used a jumper to it.

The video suggests that the DME may not be sending signal and the aux fan is not turning on. My aux fan does turn on anytime the vehicle is started. Not sure if that is a symptom or issue? Note it is around 80 degrees or higher outdoors when testing. I have not checked the heater control unit IHKA. This panel does control the hvac and does work when jumper is removed to control heat and blower functions. Just not sending signal maybe to AC compressor. I will review this as possible issue. The video comments the author also suggested "Hello, Check fuse 9 and fuse 20 which should be the main power supply to the IHKA. It would be worth taking it out as well and check the connections and power supply. Let me know if you need a wiring diagram."

Thank you for the video and the comments. I will report when test complete after I return home today.

[upallnight]

Just because your fan is running doesn't mean the fan is o.k. You could have a fan fault since the DME perform a test on the fan. If the fan fails the test, the DME will issue a fan fault. The only way to determine if a fan fault has been logged is to get software that can read the DME stored faults. A fan fault will not turn on a SES or MIL light since it is not considered an emission issue.

When my AC stopped working I scanned my X and the DME reported a fan fault. When another poster on this forum was having problem with his ac system working part of the time I scanned his X and a fan fault popped up.

I would get the X scan and see if you have a fan fault. The fact that your fan runs almost immediately after start up indicates to me that you have a problem with the fan.

Originally Posted by Cora

Sorry if was not as clear as hoped. Did replace fsr just based on suggestions I read. But the actual issue is a home made jumper linking a blue color hot 2.5a wire from main fan/aux fan harness to black/slate wire running to air conditioning compressor. It was the culprit. When installed the air conditioning does work and temp controls function as desired. When jumper is removed no air conditioning compressor and no cold air.

I am trying to learn what the blue wire on this harness is actually for? When the two wires the jumper connects make connection the clutch on the air compressor clutch engages and you hear a click. This is with key off after 16 min.

I am now trying to figure out what is preventing the normal activation of the air compressor when jumper is removed.

Final note. Vehicle amp draw after 16 min is 0.02 with jumper removed.

"I am now trying to figure out what is preventing the normal activation of the air compressor when jumper is removed."

No 12 volt or signal current to the compressor from the DME is why the compressor clutch is not engaging. Another "Shade Tree Mechanic Fix" by someone who didn't have the funds to fix the problem correctly. I would have at least installed a relay to kill the power when the engine wasn't running.

The problem with this fix is that the compressor is always engaged. The system is designed to cycle the compressor on and off. This Shade tree fix bypass the low and high sensor cutoff. With the high sensor now bypassed, the system could build up enough pressure that it could vent out the refrigerant. If the previous owner did this to the ac system, who know what other type of shade tree fixes he did to the rest of the car.

[Cora]

I have ordered the PA Soft 1.4 software and OBD II to BMW 20 pin adapter as my vehicle is a 2001.

I will complete the next parts to troubleshooting when tools are in hand.

***Gripe alert*** "Another "Shade Tree Mechanic Fix" by someone who didn't have the funds to fix the problem correctly." - Man I really dislike the people who do this kind of work. You hear it all the time- if you can't afford the parts, don't buy the vehicle. I have a Mercedes diesel and a Ford diesel I keep on the road. I would kick anyone out of my shop (aka, the two car garage) if they didn't do the repair to best practice. Our family's safety rides on our ability to do things right when we agree to do the repairs. That is all I need to know when deciding whether or not to take a shortcut or find the problem. Yeah it sucks when you get home from work and have to get changed and put your elbows back into the problem. But knowing it was done right means it is all worth it when you see the family drive back up to the driveway after their SAFE trip. I don't want to change the topic, but this boils my kettle quick.***Gripe secured***

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by Cora

I have ordered the PA Soft 1.4 software and OBD II to BMW 20 pin adapter as my vehicle is a 2001.

I will complete the next parts to troubleshooting when tools are in hand.

***Gripe alert*** "Another "Shade Tree Mechanic Fix" by someone who didn't have the funds to fix the problem correctly." - Man I really dislike the people who do this kind of work. You hear it all the time- if you can't afford the parts, don't buy the vehicle. I have a Mercedes diesel and a Ford diesel I keep on the road. I would kick anyone out of my shop (aka, the two car garage) if they didn't do the repair to best practice. Our family's safety rides on our ability to do things right when we agree to do the repairs. That is all I need to know when deciding whether or not to take a shortcut or find the problem. Yeah it sucks when you get home from work and have to get changed and put your elbows back into the problem. But knowing it was done right means it is all worth it when you see the family drive back up to the driveway after their SAFE trip. I don't want to change the topic, but this boils my kettle quick.***Gripe secured***

Depending on who you order the cable and software from you may have to modify the connector.

Some connectors ships without a jumper wire between pins 7 and 8. Open the OBD connector and solder a jumper wire from pin 7 to pin 8 and you'll have full functionality (the car sends out data on pin 7 but the scanner tries to read on pin 8). Do this and you can access all modules in the car to recode features.