The X is killing batteries Left and Right

[jsoto]

BTW, my Indy - former master tech asked if I saw anything on the cluster ever.....he said the system is super sensative and will light up the cluster with alt , if it sees alt issues. I've yet to see if the inet/interwebs agree with this statement

[jsoto]

1st time I changed the alt was on it's 50 month of ownership....
That was a fun day., 95+ degree day, broken down due to it leaking the coolant out *water cooled*, waiting almost 4-5 hrs for a wrecker

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by jsoto

BTW, my Indy - former master tech asked if I saw anything on the cluster ever.....he said the system is super sensative and will light up the cluster with alt , if it sees alt issues. I've yet to see if the inet/interwebs agree with this statement

Nope, will not say "alt" or anything specific to the alternator. The dash will light up like a Xmas tree though. The 4x4 trifecta, battery light, and all kinds of other lights can come on.

The system is really sensitive though.

[jsoto]

I'm just thinking outloud....

Note. Connection was tight when I checked a week ago.
After getting back towed home on this recent one, + was tight but I could still ~move it~

If you read the OP, as crazy as it sounds, I replaced the T nut on it, and it would still not clamp tight-tight.
I thought it would was the clamp on the cable itself *compressed*, and not allowing full metal-metal contact.
Loaner Battery swapped and it's tight ! Go figure.

I do suspect that on 2X, it was not a good connection, and did start the car, somehow, the vehicle was running down the battery and it was not taking a charge even though there was a connection....
While stranded waiting for a tow....amp clamp was reading 45+ amps, etc.

It's a pretty straightforward system unless I am missing something.
Starter, Alt. Wiring to the Back to the Battery. Negative in the rear and that sums it up....

I'm stumped and mystified.
Regardless, don't plan to drive until I have a solid plan of action...
Me and my 12V blues

[crystalworks]

You're going to have to drive it to monitor that alternator. You could try having oreillys or autozone checking the alternator for you though I have not had good luck with the accuracy of their testing in regards to the alternator specifically.

[kvc]

I know you've already invested a fair bit in an effort to rectify this dilemma, but how about buying a new battery clamp so you have a good, solid connection? Loose contact with the battery terminals/posts is not a good thing. While in there, I would seriously check your earth contact too and any other connections in the system that are visible in the trunk/boot space. Have you checked connections to the alternator? Sounds to me like you have a faulty contact somewhere and you won't find it until you check for the obvious by pulling, prodding, wriggling and tightening. At least this won't deplete your wallet anymore....

[jsoto]

The clamp is fine....I thought it was the clamp after putting a new T nut and then trying to tighten down on the posts, which got it tight but had some slight movement. So I said, I'm sh1t up a creek, it must be the clamp, metal compressed over the years....and the nut/clamp ain't biting into it.

I dumped a loaner battery in the car, just so I could at least move it, and it tighted up just fine...and both batteries *depleted and loaner* are from the same make...

Go figure

Removed negative cable and MM looks good from end2end

[fmugur]

+1 on the alternator or voltage regulator. This passed weekend I killed one battery the same way. I noticed the voltage was fluctuating and I replaced only the brushes. I couldn't find a voltage regulator in the weekend. The brushes didn't fix the problem. I put a new battery in and the voltage was ok for the short test and then took it for a test drive and the battery light came on. I had no battery light on before the brushes were changed. I checked the voltage and it was 11.5 V. I am replacing the voltage regulator today if I find one locally? The new battery is still good.
So, my suspicion is that voltage regulator goes bad when brushes go short and no power from the alternator.

[puddinboo]

another question is the alternator getting saturated with oil?

[jsoto]

Ahh. This is where I'm stumped.
On the most recent, battery tender on battery. Fully charged.
Rested overnight, read 12.7 on the MM in the morning.
After breakdown, it appeared the + has some play in it. Minor, as it was tight, but not tight enough that I could not make it move.

With the said, theoretically, it should have been charging the battery ? The connection was good enough to start the car..in the morning. Before even doing the disassemble process, a amp clamp on the P was showing 45 amps declining downward when I boosted the terminals up front to start the car. BUT, with the shot battery, I can only conclude the vehicle was running off the battery the whole entire time during the 50-60 mile drive...