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  #11  
Old 10-30-2015, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
- Yes, see the link for info to short the pins to supply 12V to the blower motor.
Basically a jumper wire (with inline fuse holder) to jump #2 and #5 terminals on the FSR connector.
If the fuse blows, then the blower motor is shorted out.
If the blower runs, then you are back to FSR and/or fuse controlling the blower.

- A common cause is lack of lubrication. The blower motor shaft runs on some bushings (no ball bearings). Over time, the oil dries out creating drag and seizing.

- Some info on Blower Motor DIY:

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...ement-diy.html
Just used the jumpers to test the blower motor and it fired right up. Heading back to the dealer to return the FSR they sold me. Why in the world would they tell me the blower was bad!
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  #12  
Old 10-31-2015, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hsvnole View Post
Just used the jumpers to test the blower motor and it fired right up. Heading back to the dealer to return the FSR they sold me. Why in the world would they tell me the blower was bad!
Sweet!

That's a whole lot of time and frustration you just avoided, cn90 you're the man!
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  #13  
Old 10-31-2015, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by trader4 View Post
Well, that's good news. I had an issue with the FSR where the blower
suddenly stopped working. Put in a new FSR and that didn't fix it.
Finally I figured out that there was an intermittent connection at
the FSR connector. I bent the pins on the FSR slightly so that they
were not perfectly straight and would make better contact when
shoved together. That worked.
Thanks trader4, that might be my issue. I struggled making connection with the jumper wires when testing. Will try cleaning out connecter sockets to ensure a good contact.
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  #14  
Old 10-31-2015, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by hsvnole View Post
Just used the jumpers to test the blower motor and it fired right up. Heading back to the dealer to return the FSR they sold me. Why in the world would they tell me the blower was bad!
1- Because some of the mechanics are incompetent.

2- Some mechanics don't know how to read electrical circuit. It is not difficult to read the electrical circuit, one just needs to know the basic principless, which are covered in high-school Physics.

3- The dealer wants to sell you that "thousand-dollar" blower motor job.

This is exactly what I told you in my earlier posts.

Jump pin #2 and pin #5 is the ticket to diagnose the issue.
Now:
a. Why would a brand-new FSR from dealer does not work?
b. Did you clean all 5 pins on the connector?
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  #15  
Old 10-31-2015, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by hsvnole View Post
I did replace the FRS but should probably perform the jumper wire check just to be sure.
Where did you get the FSR from?
FYI, aftermarket stuff are bad.
Stick to BMW OEM FSR!!!
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  #16  
Old 11-05-2015, 11:57 PM
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@hsvnole,

What is the final verdict?
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  #17  
Old 11-15-2015, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
@hsvnole,

What is the final verdict?

cn90, finally got around to testing the new FSR and it was good. Decided to gently bend the prongs that go into the socket connector and Voilą!, the blower motor came to life. So glad i decided to test everything before pulling out the dash. Hopefully, the connection will last a little while.

Thanks to all the inputs and tips you guys provided I am now able to defrost the windows on cold mornings.

I also understand I no longer need to go to the dealership, even for diagnostics.
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  #18  
Old 11-16-2015, 03:55 AM
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Hallelujah Brothers! I think you've got a new convert to the DIY mentality.
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  #19  
Old 11-16-2015, 10:19 PM
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@hsvnole,

Glad you fixed it.
It took me a long time to write the DIY I linked above.
A lot of diagrams and real-life measurement of the circuit voltage.
Anyway, problem SOLVED, saved $1000!
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