AC Compressor Replacement

[TiAgBMWXI]

I have an '06 X5 3.0 I'll be replacing the compressor on shortly. I'm working on putting a part list together and wanted to see if anyone had any other suggestions on additional parts I should replace and any good DIY guides.

I am getting a code of "IHKA: Magnetic Coupling. A/C compressor"

I took it to a repair shop to validate the refrigerant was not low (just a general local place as I really just wanted to validate refrigerant levels) . They determined it was slightly low and I have slight leaks around both the low and high pressure service ports. They filled to the proper amount and verified the compressor received a signal to turn on, but would not engage, which confirms my idea to move forward with the compressor replacement (going to do the whole thing instead of dealing with just the clutch). I'm going to have them give me the car back with the system evacuated and replace the parts myself, then have them vacuum and refill once I am done.

So far I have this list for parts:

• Compressor
• Drier (Last time I fixed an AC leak, I didnt do this, but it is not too expensive so figured I might as well)
• High and Low side valves (should I replace the hoses the valves are on or just the valves?)

Should I replace the AC expansion valve too? The shop mentioned that.

[X5chemist]

Yes, replace the expansion valve and valve cores. Valve cores are the weakest part. Now, you can brass plug to install over leaking cores. The brass plugs work better than plastic caps. I've used plugs on domestic cars but not on my X5. Flush it good with a can of A/C flush. Use compressed air to clean out hoses and evaporator. My system goes down to 40F/4C on the highway. Sometimes even on the lowest blower motor speed, I have to turn it off. It's super cold!

[80stech]

If there is no good reason to flush then I would not do that because it complicates getting the oil to the proper level again.

[X5chemist]

True. However, some compressors come full with oil too. So no oil should be added. Extra oil may be too much.

[80stech]

The compressor comes with the right amount of oil for the compressor, not more to compensate for anything in the rest of the system. If no flushing or changing anything in the system that contains oil happens then the level will be fine.

[TiAgBMWXI]

Yes, amount of oil is one of the concerns I have. I think since I am replacing the drier, I will want to add some amount of oil.

Although I’m not sure I even need to replace the drier as the system will only be open for the short time I swap the compressor out.

[cn90]

I replaced the AC compressor on my 1998 E39 528i with 160K back in July 2016. It is an M52 engine, so it is very similar to M54 engine.

I wrote a very detailed DIY here:

DIY: 1998 BMW 528i 160K Replacing AC Compressor

https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/d...ressor.924320/

Key things:

1. Do NOT trust the amount of oil that comes with it.
Drain it and measure proper amount of oil yourself.

2. E39 AC compressor is Denso.
E53 X5 is Calsonic.
I'd stick to whatever brand the came from the factory.
Avoid aftermarket AC compressor.

3. Do it on a dry non-humid day.

4. If you rent the vacuum machine, check all the O-rings.
They are often damaged by the previous renters.

5. Replace all O-rings. Use only BMW Genuine O-rings.

6. Dryer...up to you.

7. Valves...up to you.

[TiAgBMWXI]

Originally Posted by cn90

I replaced the AC compressor on my 1998 E39 528i with 160K back in July 2016. It is an M52 engine, so it is very similar to M54 engine.

I wrote a very detailed DIY here:

DIY: 1998 BMW 528i 160K Replacing AC Compressor

https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/d...ressor.924320/

Key things:

1. Do NOT trust the amount of oil that comes with it.
Drain it and measure proper amount of oil yourself.

2. E39 AC compressor is Denso.
E53 X5 is Calsonic.
I'd stick to whatever brand the came from the factory.
Avoid aftermarket AC compressor.

3. Do it on a dry non-humid day.

4. If you rent the vacuum machine, check all the O-rings.
They are often damaged by the previous renters.

5. Replace all O-rings. Use only BMW Genuine O-rings.

6. Dryer...up to you.

7. Valves...up to you.

Thanks for the reply, I had come across your DIY post and it seems ot be the best one around.

Once question I had, how did you come to the conclusion to add 5 oz of oil? One of the articles you linked recommended measuring the oil from the old compressor and using that amount to the new one.

From my understanding, even with compressor replacement, some oil is left in the system.

Also, since I am getting it refilled by a shop, can they add oil when they recharge?

[TiAgBMWXI]

I replaced the compressor last night, it was pretty easy overall.

I didn't see any DIY posts mention it for the e53, but I took the fan and fan shroud out and it made everything much easier to access/work around. I think I actually ended up doing everything from above.

I put 50mL of PAG oil in. I drained the old compressor and probably got about 30mL out. I found somewhere that BMW recommends adding at least 50 mL with a compressor replacement, so I decided to do that. I used PAG 46 as that is what both the old and new compressor had a label saying to use.

I did not replace the drier, as I only had it open a short time. The shop can't get me in to recharge it until Monday, so I'll probably end up replacing the drier over the weekend.

[EODguy]

Condenser....

If your system drained completely before you swapped out the compressor OR the compressor shit the bed 100% then put on a new condenser, as the oil can slugg the system when you fill and restart it...

(Don't ask me how I know!!)

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