Alternator Housing Gasket N62 e53 DIY without photos SORRY

[PropellerHead]

Originally Posted by SlickGT1

What do you mean. Pliers? Seriously grab the tip, tight against the base of rivet, needle nose pliers, and spin them. The river will snap off when it is maxed out. No need for a special tool.

+1

Originally Posted by PropellerHead

He said, yeah. We have those. We call 'em pliers.

I was like, wait, whut? Sure enough. After a few tries, you can pull on the plastic pin and snug the rivet down to the indention on the pin by hand. Then all you need to do is snap the pin off. I did this for the front and rear wheel wells and finished the job.

Edit: Oops.. just saw the dates:

Originally Posted by itscoo2pyopants

Trying to be fancy with a special tool!! It’s all good, I figured it out.

[jabstick420]

looking at the diagrams on realoem, it looks like there is a profile gasket between the oil pan and the diff.

my question is in regards to the tapered metal ring listed with the o-ring. #8 on the diagram listed as "assembly ring". is this ring needed for install of the oring?

any comment on installation would be helpful. i've ordered a new gasket and o-ring.

alternator bracket is off the car and reassembly to start in the next few days.

thanks in advance.

[svvg]

Slight thread revival… I’m about to do this on my E53 4.8. Have people found that the diffs leak where they haven’t replaced the profile gaskets and cv/driveshaft diff gaskets? Am I stupidly cutting corners by not changing those seals?

Is there enough access to the gasket between the diff and oil pan in-particular, if I’m just going to move the diff slightly, rather than remove it completely…?

Grateful for anyone’s experience and advice on this.

[svvg]

I have been putting this job off for some time (as you can see from when I first piped-up about it….).

I’ve just found a video of a fella who unbolts the guibo/main drive shaft from the back of the front diff, and then pulls the drive shaft back a touch - and then slides the diff out towards the wheel of the car 5mm or so, to gain access to the bastrd bolt on the alternator bracket (without removing the diff or cv shafts). One of the comments goes further, and states that someone has managed to spin the diff round the cv joint (leaving the cv joints fully inserted into the hubs and the diff - not even removing the wheels….

Anyone here reckon that’ll work? Drive shafts will easily come out of my hubs (as I’ve rebuilt the cv joints and swapped boots a couple of times), but I’d prefer not to pull the shafts out of the diff and then have to worry about seals etc. This method claims no need to raise the engine or anything (I do have an engine beam/support bar - but doing less, is more….).

Other than me clearly wanting to do as little as possible, outside in the pssing rain and cold of the UK, does anyone have any thoughts on whether disconnecting the main drive shaft from the back of the front diff, and then rotating the front diff around the cv joint shafts (and pulling it 5mm or so away from the oil pan) would work, to access the difficult to access/ bastrd bolt on the alternator bracket?

I’m getting an intermittent charge failure light, and the car started to lose power and cylinders. Then died - and then was totally fine the next day... Could just be the voltage regulator, but can’t be helping that the alternator is covered in oil… so I’d better fix this before swapping the alternator, which I think is now urgent.

Many thanks…!

[theherd]

Originally Posted by svvg

I have been putting this job off for some time (as you can see from when I first piped-up about it….).

I’ve just found a video of a fella who unbolts the guibo/main drive shaft from the back of the front diff, and then pulls the drive shaft back a touch - and then slides the diff out towards the wheel of the car 5mm or so, to gain access to the bastrd bolt on the alternator bracket (without removing the diff or cv shafts). One of the comments goes further, and states that someone has managed to spin the diff round the cv joint (leaving the cv joints fully inserted into the hubs and the diff - not even removing the wheels….

Anyone here reckon that’ll work? Drive shafts will easily come out of my hubs (as I’ve rebuilt the cv joints and swapped boots a couple of times), but I’d prefer not to pull the shafts out of the diff and then have to worry about seals etc. This method claims no need to raise the engine or anything (I do have an engine beam/support bar - but doing less, is more….).

Other than me clearly wanting to do as little as possible, outside in the pssing rain and cold of the UK, does anyone have any thoughts on whether disconnecting the main drive shaft from the back of the front diff, and then rotating the front diff around the cv joint shafts (and pulling it 5mm or so away from the oil pan) would work, to access the difficult to access/ bastrd bolt on the alternator bracket?

I’m getting an intermittent charge failure light, and the car started to lose power and cylinders. Then died - and then was totally fine the next day... Could just be the voltage regulator, but can’t be helping that the alternator is covered in oil… so I’d better fix this before swapping the alternator, which I think is now urgent.

Many thanks…!

Hey there,

I have started this job on my 4.8is and I'm now about to attempt removing the alternator bracket so I'm curious if you got this method verified or if you managed get the "bastard" bolt out by disconnecting the main drive shaft from the back of the front diff, and then rotating the front diff around the cv joint shafts?

Any points would be greatly appreciated.

[svvg]

Not sure I can send PMs but did try - this is the you tube video I’m going to try to follow. Not had a chance to try it yet…

https://youtu.be/Chouo1G2XaA?is=Ri9DuO3OMayhnXAz