Help With Eonon GA5166F Install w/Factory NAV no DSP

[we350z]

The saga continues... Got my trusty multimeter out and did some testing

Alpine Amp:

White Wire (Remote Wire):
Ignition Key Off, Radio Off - 0.00V
Ignition Key ACC, Boardmonitor Radio Off - ~11.5V
Ignition Key ACC, Boardmonitor Radio On - ~11.5V

Radio Control Unit:

Pin 5, 12V Continuous (Violet / White):
Ignition Key Off, Boarmonitor Radio Off - ~11.5V
Ignition Key ACC, Boardmonitor Radio Off - ~11.5V
Ignition Key ACC, Boardmonitor Radion On - ~11.5V

Pin 9, 12V Switched:
Ignition Key Off, Boarmonitor Radio Off - 0.00V
Ignition Key ACC, Boardmonitor Radio Off - ~11.5V
Ignition Key ACC, Boardmonitor Radion On - ~11.5V

Pin 16, Remote Power (White):
Ignition Key Off, Boarmonitor Radio Off - 0.00V
Ignition Key ACC, Boardmonitor Radio Off - ~11.5V
Ignition Key ACC, Boardmonitor Radion On - ~11.5V

This tells me the radio control unit, stock Alpine Amp, and my aftermarket MTX amp are all staying powered on when the sounds cuts off after a couple minutes when unplugging the boardmonitor. Guessing the RCU senses the BM HU is off / gone and shuts off the main L/R +/- outputs to the amp.

I am going to try one last thing which I think may work - wiring the L/R +/- line level outputs of the eonon HU directly to the corresponding pins on the 17-pin round connector. I think these are always "active" to the amp. I have a really long 18AWG speaker wire to test with. If this works I will probably just hijack two pair of wires from the NAV harness to run to the X18126.

[we350z]

Bingo! My assumption was correct and I got audio now Here is what I did:

Eonon 17-pin round pin harness ->12-pin blue harness behind dash (X18801)

Left Front +, White -> TAPE Left +, Pin 3 Blue/Brown
Left Front -, White/Black -> TAPE Left -, Pin 4 Blue/Black
Right Front +, -> TAPE Right +, Pin 10 Yellow/Black
Right Front -, -> TAPE Left -, Pin 9, Yellow/Brown

These leads terminate at the X18805 connector (10-pin blue labeled 'B' in the picture below) below the 17-pin round pin portion of the X18126 connector that plugs into the radio control unit underneath the spare tire in the trunk:



You can then easily use a couple 14-18 AWG (typically blue) t-taps with connecting wire to connect them up as follows:

X18805 -> X18126 (17-pin round pin top portion)

Front Speakers:

TAPE Left +, Pin 6 (Blue/Brown) -> Speaker Front Left +, Pin 1
TAPE Left -, Pin 7 (Blue/Black) -> Speaker Front Left -, Pin 8
TAPE Right +, Pin 1 (Yellow/Black) -> Speaker Front Right +, Pin 2
TAPE Right -, Pin 2 (Yellow/Brown) -> Speaker Front Right -, Pin 11

Rear Speakers:

TAPE Left +, Pin 6 (Blue/Brown) -> Speaker Rear Left +, Pin 3
TAPE Left -, Pin 7 (Blue/Black) -> Speaker Rear Left -, Pin 12
TAPE Right +, Pin 1 (Yellow/Black) -> Speaker Rear Right +, Pin 6
TAPE Right -, Pin 2 (Yellow/Brown) -> Speaker Rear Right -, Pin 14

[dHAck]

Were you able to get it to work with stability?

Can you clarify you did this?
1. Eonon 17-pin round pin harness -> 12-pin blue harness behind dash (X18801)
2. X18805 -> X18126 (17-pin round pin top portion)

Also, was the X18805 left hanging or was it connected to the radio module? I tried both ways.

I have DSP and it didn't work for me. I made a similar assumption as you because I am able to get the Eonon unit to work when plugging in the blue X18801 plug and I figured I could splice my Eonon wires in to it. I went further and connected the power, ground and illumination. The Eonon unit doesn't have an IBus wire direct from the head unit so I could not bridge this final pin.

I am now concluding that the factory head unit has processors that communicate with the amp and it's not as simple as the signal being lost from the amp.

btw:
Blue/Black = Left Front +, not Left Front - and
Blue/Brown = Left Front -, not Left Front +

I confirmed this by taking apart the blue X18801 plug and looked at the pin numbering.

Originally Posted by we350z

Bingo! My assumption was correct and I got audio now Here is what I did:

Eonon 17-pin round pin harness ->12-pin blue harness behind dash (X18801)

Left Front +, White -> TAPE Left +, Pin 3 Blue/Brown
Left Front -, White/Black -> TAPE Left -, Pin 4 Blue/Black
Right Front +, -> TAPE Right +, Pin 10 Yellow/Black
Right Front -, -> TAPE Left -, Pin 9, Yellow/Brown

These leads terminate at the X18805 connector (10-pin blue labeled 'B' in the picture below) below the 17-pin round pin portion of the X18126 connector that plugs into the radio control unit underneath the spare tire in the trunk:



You can then easily use a couple 14-18 AWG (typically blue) t-taps with connecting wire to connect them up as follows:

X18805 -> X18126 (17-pin round pin top portion)

Front Speakers:

TAPE Left +, Pin 6 (Blue/Brown) -> Speaker Front Left +, Pin 1
TAPE Left -, Pin 7 (Blue/Black) -> Speaker Front Left -, Pin 8
TAPE Right +, Pin 1 (Yellow/Black) -> Speaker Front Right +, Pin 2
TAPE Right -, Pin 2 (Yellow/Brown) -> Speaker Front Right -, Pin 11

Rear Speakers:

TAPE Left +, Pin 6 (Blue/Brown) -> Speaker Rear Left +, Pin 3
TAPE Left -, Pin 7 (Blue/Black) -> Speaker Rear Left -, Pin 12
TAPE Right +, Pin 1 (Yellow/Black) -> Speaker Rear Right +, Pin 6
TAPE Right -, Pin 2 (Yellow/Brown) -> Speaker Rear Right -, Pin 14

[we350z]

So everything works great just jumped the positive leads L/R for now but the amp cuts out at higher volume guessing I should jump the negatives as well.

If I want to be able to fade front to rear I will have to either run another pair of speaker cables or try hijacking a couple pair from X18802->X1313.

[we350z]

I don't think anyone has gotten DSP to work

[gatojurko]

Attention
1. For cars without screen and DSP, this head unit is plug and play.
2 For cars without screen but with DSP. The installation is relatively complicated. You will need to connect the speaker cables separately to get audio and your original DSP will not work after installation.
3. For cars with screen but no DSP, this stereo is plug and play.
4. For cars with screen and DSP, this unit can support original car’s DSP after 2001.
The following is the link on how to check if your car has DSP:
BMW X5 E53 Car Stereo Head Unit Upgrade Buying Guide Installation