Massive Oil Release - Page 4

Awntchi · #1 02-16-2016, 01:27 PM

Go for it, it's a good investment if you're not thinking of selling the car....and live in a cold place.

Keep in mind that this system need a constant power source and not intermittent. In Norway you can plug the car in most car parks/garages but not all provide constant power....this still burn the heaters. Fyi

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Rush · #2 02-16-2016, 02:07 PM

David, you put the heating kit on. Given that it's been nearly 14 years and 65K, should I sweat (get it, "sweat"?) it?

I'm certainly not adverse to the extra $355, but would you call that a "fix" or a "partial alleviation"? Is the pan heater a better solution, given that he'll be down there anyway? If so, do you have a link to one?

Thanks for all of your help, everyone!

weiln12 · #3 02-16-2016, 02:08 PM

Why don't we get all the cool stuff here?! The DEFA would work, but in less than 1 month I'll have a nice comfy garage so I won't need it at home. At work, we don't have plugs to keep it warm so it wouldn't be as helpful there. I'd REALLY like to get a Webasto, but that doesn't look like it's going to happen either.

I think for me, the best option may be the heater blanket that David.X5 has on his.

weiln12 · #4 02-16-2016, 02:10 PM

@Rush - The heating blanket is BMW's solution to the issue and also for Range Rovers with the M62. It would also be very easy to install and doesn't require the removal of the CCV system to do this. There should be zero labor charge to install this if the CCV is already being replaced.

Rush · #5 02-16-2016, 02:20 PM

Thanks, Nathan!

It should get towed tomorrow. It seems that firing it up and just gunning it until I get it to the shop is a bad idea.

I'll see what he says and I'll order it.

Rush · #6 02-16-2016, 06:16 PM

Did I miss a cold weather SIB for the M62?

I looked at Keeping You Safe | Safercar | National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) to find any that apply, but didn't.

I thought someone mentioned one earlier, but I may be mistaken.

weiln12 · #7 02-16-2016, 06:33 PM

@Rush - Try this. It appears to have the BMW pages attached here. SIB 110104 - http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...under-cpo.html

Rush · #8 02-16-2016, 06:46 PM

I got lost in the world of searches.

D'oh!

Thank you.

Rush · #9 02-16-2016, 07:32 PM

Taking another tack here, as I'm learning a lot about this issue, and I'm certain that the indy will know all about it, if we assume ALL of the CCV parts have to be replaced:

RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

that's $282.51. Lovely.

And assuming that the six-week-old valve cover gasket set, and the six-week old valve cover seal washers need to be replaced, does anyone have a ballpark idea on that cost, in Alexandria, VA? Not at the dealer, of course.

I'd like to take a picture, and I should have done it in the daylight, to see where the earl came from. For now, the red box shows the only place, underneath, that oil dripped from, near the front right wheel.

jfoj · #10 02-17-2016, 12:24 AM

Low mileage for the year.

Assume if you are the original owner, you do not drive very far to and from work?

I would monitor the engine temperature to see if the thermostat is soft AND make sure you "Manage" the yellow Mayo in the engine.

From the looks of your picture, your engine oil is in BAD shape. A cold running engine that is not driven long enough to properly warm up the oil can cause oil to be contaminated in as little as 1000-1500 miles in the Winter months.

Management is actually pretty easy. It involves a few times a week popping the hood in the morning and checking the underside of the oil fill cap and also pulling the dipstick and check the engine oil color. The engine oil should never be BLACK if the crankcase is getting warm enough. If there is yellow Mayo under the oil fill cap, make sure the engine is running at the problem temperature. Typically 96C-105C depending on the configuration of this engine. I do not know it as well as the N62 in the E70 which runs TOO hot in my opinion and it typically has an operating temperature of around 105-110C.

Management also means pulling the oil fill cap after coming home with a very warm engine and removing the oil fill cap and letting the crankcase vent openly overnight while the engine cools. The only trick is not forgetting to reinstall the oil fill cap. Sometimes I suggest putting the oil fill cap in a plastic sandwich bag, dropping the drivers window about 1/2" and then rolling the bag end up in the window with the bag on the outside so it is starting you in the face when you go to get into the car.

Good luck, hopefully the repair is not bad, hopefully no cracked valve cover(s) or other damage, but I would like to see what the oil looks like in the engine an what the upper valvetrain looks like if the valve covers need to be removed.

My guess is this is a big time Mayo motor?