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#11
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I wouldnt mind replacing the oil pan. I got a book from a buddy that works at a dealership and it looks like lower pan would be easy to replace except i cant find any oil pans for 2005 x5. Everything on ebay seems to be 2000-2003 or 2006 and up. i'm also starting to consider just using plumbers tape to get it to seal for now while i keep looking for an oil pan. |
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#12
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Quote:
The M20 repair should make your existing pan as good as new - no need to replace it.
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Wayne 2005 BMW X5 3.0d (b 02/05) 2001 BMW F650GS Dakar (b 06/01) |
#13
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Quote:
one other thing i let "mechanics" fix was a broken control arm on my z4. i was having too much fun and hit a curb while sliding. control arm was more than my deductible by almost 800$ so i just let insurance deal with it. One day i am driving on a busy street with 50mph speed limit cumming up on a red light. I go to press break and it falls in completely. idiots that replaced the control arm didnt mount the bracket that holds break line right and break line was rubbing against an axle which resulted in a half inch long hole. Lost all break line pressure... |
#14
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Will do, thanks.
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#15
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You will get nicer threads if you start with the correct size drilled hole (nice and straight, not wobbly). And less likely to break the tap. The correct tap drill for a m20x1.5 in Aluminum is 18.5 mm (close to 47/64 inch).
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David.X5 2001 X5 4.4i Sport SOLD! at 160k miles |
#16
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Quote:
As long as the thread pitch is the same (and there are - 1.5mm) then the new tap should run up the remains of the old thread pretty cleanly. It might bite a bit too much, but use plenty of grease in the tap's flutes, both to catch any swarf/chips and to lubricate the cutting faces on the tap. Go slowly, in about 1/6th of a turn, then back out to clear the swarf.
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Wayne 2005 BMW X5 3.0d (b 02/05) 2001 BMW F650GS Dakar (b 06/01) |
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