Turning a non remote master key into a remote key?

[phathom]

So I need a second key for my car. My options are:
A) Pony up $175 for a new remote key from the dealer
B) Pay $75 for a new, non-remote key from the dealer and live with no remote
C) Pay $75 for a new, non-remote key from the dealer, order a 315mhz key blank with remote fob, remove the key blank and use the rest of it for a fob, so I have a key and a separate fob.
D) Pay $75 for a new, non-remote key from the dealer, order a 315mhz key blank with remote fob, remove the key blank, open up the dealer issued, non-remote key, and put it in the aftermarket remote key fob case.

I'm leaning towards D, but if that is not possible to do for some technical reason. I would be happy with C.

The key I'm ordering: Part# 51218236596 https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/527053_x800.jpg

The option I'm looking at for options C and D is something like this.
315MHz Remote Entry Key Fob Transmitter Uncut Blade for BMW E46 x3 x5 3 Series | eBay
Obviously the key itself won't work, even if I have it cut.

They also have flip styles, but they're too bulky imo. If they would be a better option though, I'm open to it.

It looks like GM5 has that service for $60, but from the sound of it, they unsolder the transponder and solder it onto one of those aftermarket options I linked and cut the key blank to match. I'm looking at a more DIY approach and basically taking both keys apart, removing the blank, and likely epoxying in the factory cut key with transponder into the new housing.

If I am able to do this for myself, I would be able to walk away with a legit remote key for about half price.

Thoughts on this? Anyone do this before? Is there some technical issue, like space in the donor fob or the dealer key is ridiculously hard to open without damaging the transponder? If so, I'm fine with just getting the key from the dealer, having an aftermarket fob, and having two things on my keyring instead of one.

[Clockwork]

why do you need the second key?
just as a precaution?
I have two remote keys and the second would NEVER be used (but I do swap them time to time to charge the batt inside).
Id say just buy the non-fob key and have it as a spare.

[Clockwork]

BTW. those aftermarket key fobs are CHEAPLY made and just snap together where as the BMW key is plastic welded together and the buttons do NOT feel legit/proper.
I bought one and was going to use as a transponder/remote fob just as a spare incase I ever locked my keys inside the vehicle.

[Qsilver7]

So...if you buy the new uncut remote KEY from ebay...how do you power the key to transmit the 315 MHZ signal?

I'm on my phone...perhaps due to the smaller display I didn't see anything about what battery it takes:



I can't remember which forum (either here, Bimmerfest.com, or bimmerforums.com)...some he sent their EWS control module in & had a new remote key made using one of the existing key positions already programmed into the EWS module...and the cot I believe is about what you're willing to pay for a non remote key.

Unfortunately the guy's name escapes me at this time...if someone knows who I'm referring to...please chime in.

[Zulu95]

There is a pic of a flat Lithium cell on the reverse of the ccb.

[phathom]

One key for my keyring, one set for my wife's keyring. Right now we're playing musical chairs with the key. It's the family vehicle with the car seats in it. She takes the kids to school. I take them to baseball practice, etc. I've left with the key to work in the morning a few times and have had to flip back around to bring it back so she can grt them to school, making me late for work.
Having 2 keys would eliminate this problem.
While I don't doubt the aftermarket keys aren't as high quality, it's more of a necessity. There are even non BMW looking generic fobs that will work and that's fine as well. As I said, I just really want keyless entry and a key that will start the car. If I can put it on one thing that looks like original, cool. If not, having two things on my keyring is fine.

About powering it, these don't have thr ews chip and thus are also not charging through the ignition. They have a normal cr2032 type battery on it you replace like a regular, non-ews fob. It's on the backside of the chip.

[phathom]

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

I can't remember which forum (either here, Bimmerfest.com, or bimmerforums.com)...some he sent their EWS control module in & had a new remote key made using one of the existing key positions already programmed into the EWS module...and the cot I believe is about what you're willing to pay for a non remote key.

Unfortunately the guy's name escapes me at this time...if someone knows who I'm referring to...please chime in.

I mentioned him in my original post.
https://www.bmwgm5.com/New_Key.htm

He has the service to change a regular key into a remote key. But it's also $60. So $75 dealer key +60 service +5 shipping it there = $140. Just $35 shy of getting a oem remote key straight from the dealer.
I'm looking at $75 dealer key + $10-15 for key fob = $85-90 and $85-90 less than an oem remote key.

[wpoll]

Have you considered option E. ?

BMW Complete Remote Transponder KEY Suits 3 5 7 Series X3 Z3 Z4 ETC | eBay

[phathom]

Originally Posted by wpoll

Have you considered option E. ?

BMW Complete Remote Transponder KEY Suits 3 5 7 Series X3 Z3 Z4 ETC | eBay

Yes, that was my original option A. The problem is the coded transponder. The dealer can't code it, even if I get it cut right and program the fob, it will not start the car.
The options for a key that will start the car are,
A) have the dealer order a cut and programmed transponder mey from BMW.
B) Have someone with a key programmer like an AK90, pull the code lost from your EWS module and code it to a new cut key. This normally involves pulling it and sending it out. After 2004, the EWS modules came with tamler lrotection. In order to hook it up to pull codes, you also need to solder on 4 wires to the board as well. Failing to do this or doing it wrong results in the EWS going into protect mode and it wipes itself, essentially bricking it. That's not cheap to replace. Then you're replacing the mlduland the keys from the dealer and having your DME recoded to the new EWS to match the rolling code keys. Because of this, option B is less desirable.

So that puts me back to the more affordable option of getting a dealer transponder key and an aftermarket fob. Thrn either trying to Frankenstein them together or use them separate.

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by phathom

The dealer can't code it, even if I get it cut right and program the fob, it will not start the car.

Rats. I've built up keys for VW and had the dealer re-code the EWS for the new transponder and figured we could do the same for the BMW system. If not, then that eBay complete key is a near-useless product.

I agree that pulling the EWS and screwing with it is too risky!