CV Axle Replacement - What Else?

[squidzilla]

Thanks for the link OP. I think I am going to do this way for my two cars. After reading so many DIY's on this and watching videos, after looking through this link I finally get it.

I may be overthinking this, but I wonder what people use to clean up the grease out of that joint. Does it have to be some lint free towel?

[hunds02]

No problem. If it wasn't for Upallnight, I would have replaced the axle and spent a lot more money. I would definitely get the CV joint puller. Only $26 on eBay! I'll be ordering these parts soon and post on the whole experience. The CV joint and boot kit is only $48. So you can replace both outer CV joints for $120ish (if you get the tool)!

I already have a 12 point 36 mm socket that I got when replacing the oil filter during oil changes. Recommend getting PB Blaster ($3.76 add on item on amazon) and a drift punch set (preferably brass) as well as a 32 or 48 Oz Dead blow hammer. I also don't have a cheater bar so I'm getting a 24" 1/2" drive breaker bar. Besides that just make sure you have rags and I think thats all you will need.

Propshaft Seperator Splitter Remover Universal CV Joint Puller | eBay

I would definitely use a lint free towel on the joints and not shop rags! I didn't think of that because I'll be replacing the joints altogether.

[ylwjacket]

I'm afraid I'll be looking to do this as well, maybe this weekend (July 4). I had a mech tell me I need tension arms, and cv axles. I don't want to fool with bushings only on the tension arms. I notice in the instructions you have to take the tension arm out of the way - can I do cv/tension at the same time to save a little time? Also - how do I know if I can do boot only, as opposed to whole axle?

The only thing I know for sure is the front end has been clunking for awhile. I was having something else done, when the guy told me I needed tension arms and cv axles replaced.

thanks much

[keduMINI]

Originally Posted by upallnight

Why are you replacing the entire axle? Most of the axle are either rebuilt or made in China.

You can reboot and install a new outer CV joint for a lot less...

https://www.amazon.com/FEBEST-1910-X...8T53TC7Q5Y537G

What I gather, Febest is a European distributor of OEM-like parts. Who supplies Febest with parts such as CV and boots? I could not get information from their website.

[David.X5]

Be careful with Febest. Not very transparent arrangement. "German quality" is not the same as "made in Germany". And pretty small company. People online report parts made in China. They have an address in Florida. The business registration available says the business started in 2011 and shows them as having 1 to 4 employees.

Febest Panamerica, LLC

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by David.X5

Be careful with Febest. Not very transparent arrangement. "German quality" is not the same as "made in Germany". And pretty small company. People online report parts made in China. They have an address in Florida. The business registration available says the business started in 2011 and shows them as having 1 to 4 employees.

Febest Panamerica, LLC

Seems like Febest have set up in a few countries around the world....

Febest Auto Parts - OEM Quality Parts for all Makes and Models

I have purchased items from them (Febest Aust. - via their NZ web storefront) for VW Golfs - minor items like idlers and sway bar links etc. So far everything I've gotten seems pretty good, quality-wise. Good service too.

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by ylwjacket

I'm afraid I'll be looking to do this as well, maybe this weekend (July 4). I had a mech tell me I need tension arms, and cv axles. I don't want to fool with bushings only on the tension arms. I notice in the instructions you have to take the tension arm out of the way - can I do cv/tension at the same time to save a little time? Also - how do I know if I can do boot only, as opposed to whole axle?

The only thing I know for sure is the front end has been clunking for awhile. I was having something else done, when the guy told me I needed tension arms and cv axles replaced.

thanks much

Clunking could be from the lower ball joints that connects the tension arms / thrust arms to the uprights. You will need a good ball joint separator to pop the ball joint out of the tension arm. You will need to pop the ball joint for the tie rod out of the upright in order to use the ball joint separator to pop the ball joint out of the tension arm.

I just replaced both thrust arms (what you call the tension) on my X last week. The passenger side only took me 30 minutes. The driver side took a little longer because the bolt that connects the thrust arm to the sub -frame is too long to remove unless you remove a plastic duct that is in the way.

The lower ball joint requires a female torx socket to remove. Don't use a regular socket it or you mess up the torx head.

If you notice that the boot is torn and the cv joint isn't making any noise when you turn the steering wheel, you can probably get by with just a boot. If the joint is making a clicking noise you must replace the cv joint or the entire axle.

Don't have all these special tools, then take it in and let a mechanic fix it.

[hunds02]

Originally Posted by David.X5

Be careful with Febest. Not very transparent arrangement. "German quality" is not the same as "made in Germany". And pretty small company. People online report parts made in China. They have an address in Florida. The business registration available says the business started in 2011 and shows them as having 1 to 4 employees.

Febest Panamerica, LLC

+1. Just got my CV joint/boot kit and it clearly says Made in China on the top of the box. Still waiting on my CV joint removal tool before I do the swap. I'm hoping these new joints are better than the ones that come on the aftermarket CV axles that are also made in China.

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by hunds02

+1. Just got my CV joint/boot kit and it clearly says Made in China on the top of the box. Still waiting on my CV joint removal tool before I do the swap. I'm hoping these new joints are better than the ones that come on the aftermarket CV axles that are also made in China.

How does the joint look? The one reviewer on Amazon stated that the joint appears to be high quality and he would use them again for all his BMW.

Not everything Made in China is junk, look at all the eye phones that are made there. The people that drank from the Apple Cider can't get enough of Apple products that are made in China.

I purchased an ac relay for my PORSCHE and the box had the PORSCHE logo, but the relay, a BOSCH relay said Made in China.

[hunds02]

Originally Posted by upallnight

Clunking could be from the lower ball joints that connects the tension arms / thrust arms to the uprights. You will need a good ball joint separator to pop the ball joint out of the tension arm. You will need to pop the ball joint for the tie rod out of the upright in order to use the ball joint separator to pop the ball joint out of the tension arm.

I just replaced both thrust arms (what you call the tension) on my X last week. The passenger side only took me 30 minutes. The driver side took a little longer because the bolt that connects the thrust arm to the sub -frame is too long to remove unless you remove a plastic duct that is in the way.

The lower ball joint requires a female torx socket to remove. Don't use a regular socket it or you mess up the torx head.

If you notice that the boot is torn and the cv joint isn't making any noise when you turn the steering wheel, you can probably get by with just a boot. If the joint is making a clicking noise you must replace the cv joint or the entire axle.

Don't have all these special tools, then take it in and let a mechanic fix it.

Thanks for this info. I may be having this issue too along with the CV joints. I get noise as I'm turning right (you can hear it well when you're going on an exit ramp). I wouldn't say its a clicking/ticking noise or a clunk. Somewhere in between maybe? It's definitely audible though. I will still replace the CV joint though as I had a mechanic tell me the boots were torn. That was in December 2014.

I do get a clunk every now and then when I turn the wheel for the first time I drive that day, it goes away for the rest of the drive until the next time I drive it. So I may have to look into the thrust arms / ball joints while I'm down there. Upallnight, can you clarify on how I can diagnose if they are bad just by looking at them?