Low Oil Pressure Light/Engine Failure/Oil Clean and Reading Full!

[SeanIngstrum]

Got the coolant leak fixed and checked the fluids. Oil is clean and reading full. Started her up and she was running fine for about a minute and then stalled. Wouldn't crank back over after and getting low oil pressure. Do I just need to do a oil service next? Thanks

[wpoll]

Can you define "won't crank back over" for us, Sean? Does the engine turn over but not fire, or does it just go "click" when you turn the key? Or nothing? Or something else?

[SeanIngstrum]

Originally Posted by wpoll

Can you define "won't crank back over" for us, Sean? Does the engine turn over but not fire, or does it just go "click" when you turn the key? Or nothing? Or something else?

Sorry, it tries to turn over, but can't stay running. Seems like something is preventing it from doing so.

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by SeanIngstrum

Sorry, it tries to turn over, but can't stay running. Seems like something is preventing it from doing so.

Well... back to basics; fuel, air, ignition.

Got gas?

Air filter in place (not dislodged and blocking the intake)?

Given that it DID run for a bit, I'm assuming that most ignition stuff is ok (coils, spark plugs etc.) but it IS possible that something died.

Unlikely though - this will be something simple.

Fuel pump running?

Might be time to get a scanner (INPA or something) so you can track down this issue...

[SeanIngstrum]

Originally Posted by wpoll

Well... back to basics; fuel, air, ignition.

Got gas?

Air filter in place (not dislodged and blocking the intake)?

Given that it DID run for a bit, I'm assuming that most ignition stuff is ok (coils, spark plugs etc.) but it IS possible that something died.

Unlikely though - this will be something simple.

Fuel pump running?

Might be time to get a scanner (INPA or something) so you can track down this issue...

First let me thank you for helping me. It does have gas. Been sitting for about 6 weeks while I researched and saved to get parts and fix it up. Just put together the air intake with new filter and intake tubing. Replaced seals on oil cooler and transmission thermostat. Would the oil pump need priming if it was sitting for 6 weeks? I'm planning on just doing an oil service and I don't think it is the oil pressure switch because I actually have engine failure and not just a light. Or would a bad switch help with engine failure? Hoping it's not the pump.

[SeanIngstrum]

Originally Posted by wpoll

Well... back to basics; fuel, air, ignition.

Got gas?

Air filter in place (not dislodged and blocking the intake)?

Given that it DID run for a bit, I'm assuming that most ignition stuff is ok (coils, spark plugs etc.) but it IS possible that something died.

Unlikely though - this will be something simple.

Fuel pump running?

Might be time to get a scanner (INPA or something) so you can track down this issue...

Also, I opened the oil fill cap and it was slightly smoking.

[wpoll]

Good point about the oil pressure light/switch - maybe the DME is killing the ignition because of the low oil pressure indication.

Maybe somewhere with more knowledge on your specific engine can chip in here (I'm an oil-burner!) but as a first step, try disconnecting the battery for 5-10 mins then reconnect it as see what happens. Seems a reset like this can clear a few common errors hat appear after a vehicle has been worked on.

In fact, I'm at the point where I'll be disconnecting the battery when I'm doing anything that requires the disconnection of any electrical connector on these Beemers - the DME/DDE and other modules are too darn clever...

If the reset doesn't work for you, then it might be time to look at the actual oil pressure. Something blocking some oil line somewhere? When you say you change the seals on the oil cooler you mean the auto-trans fluid cooler right? The one on the lower corner of the radiator? I will look over the diagrams for your car (2001 4.4i right?) and see if I can see where you might have a blockage...

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by SeanIngstrum

Also, I opened the oil fill cap and it was slightly smoking.

Pretty normal for a motor that's just been running... especially after it's been sitting for a long while.

[wpoll]

Sean, this is the oil cooler you worked on, right?

RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

Can't see that this would cause you an issue (unless transmission oil pressure is also monitored - possible, I guess).

Another thought - oil filters have been known to collapse if left in service too long, and that might block oil flow. Easy to check too....

[SeanIngstrum]

Originally Posted by wpoll

Good point about the oil pressure light/switch - maybe the DME is killing the ignition because of the low oil pressure indication.

Maybe somewhere with more knowledge on your specific engine can chip in here (I'm an oil-burner!) but as a first step, try disconnecting the battery for 5-10 mins then reconnect it as see what happens. Seems a reset like this can clear a few common errors hat appear after a vehicle has been worked on.

Actually just got the battery put in it before starting.

In fact, I'm at the point where I'll be disconnecting the battery when I'm doing anything that requires the disconnection of any electrical connector on these Beemers - the DME/DDE and other modules are too darn clever...

If the reset doesn't work for you, then it might be time to look at the actual oil pressure. Something blocking some oil line somewhere? When you say you change the seals on the oil cooler you mean the auto-trans fluid cooler right? The one on the lower corner of the radiator? I will look over the diagrams for your car (2001 4.4i right?) and see if I can see where you might have a blockage...

I actually just put the battery in before starting it up.