My X needs BIG time TLC

[Awntchi]

Hello gents,

I have for the past 2 years had a slight issue with the gearbox slipping, it only happened once in a blue moon and after the gasket was replaced by BMW....I didn't go back to them as they also messed up my air suspension AND tried to get away with replacing my rear parking sensors with 3-series sensors. Let's just say I took the car out without any more work done on it...I sorted it out myself. Now, every morning for the past week, the gearbox is religiously slipping when accelerating from a full stop (sometimes when braking also)...1st to 2nd or 2nd to 1st. This does not happen when the car is at optimum temp.

So today I took the car up on a lift for a visual inspection and trans fluid level check, the following was noted:

1. There was no visual leaks from under the tranny but I still went ahead and opened the fill plug, waited for it to drain and refilled with fresh fluid. Just a quick job but the tranny reacted positively on the way home. I'll double check this when the car is cold again.

2. I noticed some wet areas/fresh fluids that I couldn't figure out their point of origin (except from one). See pics. Any ideas?

3. I have many other pending matters such as:

* Replacing power steering reservoir + hoses
* Both tie rods
* Take out old susp. air bags (rear), I left them there after converting the suspension
* Replacing the black plastic clips on all windows
* Glue back some of the inner plastic molds and "clip holders" in the door cards
* Flush & refill coolant
* Fix sagging roof lining at some point (the pano roof cover)

Any input on part/fluid options and perhaps other work that can be done while I'm "down there" would be highly appreciated.

I trust this forum...you fine gents...any day over the dealer.

[g300d]

Do you have INPA/DIS? Scan your transmission and the codes will help you narrow it down.

You can try to reset trans adaptations after the fluid change too.

Have you done transfer case oil change already? It's just 1 liter. A very expensive 1 liter though lol!

Tie rod I would get the assembly with the rack end and ball joint so I wouldnt have to touch that area for a long time. Lemforder is OE for that part.

For the power steering, why do you need to replace the reservoir? Filter is not replaceable but the reservoir can be removed and it can be cleaned. Reservoir is not that expensive though so it's up to you. Hoses, yeah, those like to leak over time and I need to replace mine too.

Coolant flush and re-fill would be a good time to inspect and replace other system parts like hoses, etc. Depends on what you have done to the system since you got it, it can go all the way to a full overhaul. I would check all the pulleys, tensioners, water pump, visco fan, fan blade, and drive belts while there

The fluid in the pics could be spread all over those areas by driving at speed. Cant tell what kind from the pics. Could be engine oil or PS fluid.

Removing the airbags, I would check for excess negative camber and replace parts to get it back to spec if needed...usually the upper control arms. OE Lemforders or since you may be lowered, maybe look into the adjustable control arms a member posted up about recently.

Fluids - BMW OE coolant, pretty much any LL01 engine oil, and ZF Lifeguard 6 for the tranny. PS is Dex III but I think some BMW's use Pentosin for the PS? The PS filler cap will be marked for which. BMW OE X-drive transfer case fluid for the transfer case.

[colejv]

* Glue back some of the inner plastic molds and "clip holders" in the door cards

I have been doing this lately, I picked up a four pack of these from my local lowes for around 20$ used a wire brush on my dremel to clean up the plastic parts and rough up the glue still stuck to the cork/whatever door bits being careful so that the install line was still present, then gluing with gorilla glue

[Awntchi]

Originally Posted by g300d

Do you have INPA/DIS? Scan your transmission and the codes will help you narrow it down.

- I do have INPA/DIS but haven't managed to connect it properly...yet

You can try to reset trans adaptations after the fluid change too.

- I'll do this for sure once I've figured out if the the refill/clearing codes have been successful.

Have you done transfer case oil change already? It's just 1 liter. A very expensive 1 liter though lol!

- Haha no I haven't but I will now that you mentioned it (my biggest issues is getting to the dealer from where I live...long drive :/ )

Tie rod I would get the assembly with the rack end and ball joint so I wouldnt have to touch that area for a long time. Lemforder is OE for that part.

- You are indeed right, the issue here for me is getting the whole rack without it costing me an arm and a leg...it's either the dealer or ebay, being in Norway the dealer is a big no no unless it's something only they have and anything over $20 from ebay is taxed (25%) extra...in addition to the ridiculous delivery prices (sometimes higher than the cost of the part itself).

For the power steering, why do you need to replace the reservoir? Filter is not replaceable but the reservoir can be removed and it can be cleaned. Reservoir is not that expensive though so it's up to you. Hoses, yeah, those like to leak over time and I need to replace mine too.

- My steering is "sticking", feels like something is catching but does not make any whining noise. I do get a squeaky noise when turning a quarter (sounds like really dry metal against metal..hence why I think the tie rods are the culprits and maybe ball joints). I replaced the fluid in the reservoir only a while ago, it seemed to work better but the issue quickly came back. However, I definitely need to replace the hoses as they are leaking for sure.

Coolant flush and re-fill would be a good time to inspect and replace other system parts like hoses, etc. Depends on what you have done to the system since you got it, it can go all the way to a full overhaul. I would check all the pulleys, tensioners, water pump, visco fan, fan blade, and drive belts while there

- Radiator and hoses were replaced back in 2013 due to a tiny crack in the radiator (no overheating caused or anything bad though). Waterpump replaced in 2010 (was making a scratchy noise), everything else is untouched since factory. I should really replace it all as a precaution but not while I am in Norway.

The fluid in the pics could be spread all over those areas by driving at speed. Cant tell what kind from the pics. Could be engine oil or PS fluid.

- The thing is, I have no loss of fluids other than the usual consumption of engine oil (I top up with less than a liter every 5-6 months or so, same goes for the coolant). Even the power steering fluid is not down but I can see the hose is wet and there is an obvious leak from underneath (confirmed: fluid in the pics), nothing on the ground though.

Removing the airbags, I would check for excess negative camber and replace parts to get it back to spec if needed...usually the upper control arms. OE Lemforders or since you may be lowered, maybe look into the adjustable control arms a member posted up about recently.

- I did read that post, thanks for reminding me! Let's hope all is order there though

Fluids - BMW OE coolant, pretty much any LL01 engine oil, and ZF Lifeguard 6 for the tranny. PS is Dex III but I think some BMW's use Pentosin for the PS? The PS filler cap will be marked for which. BMW OE X-drive transfer case fluid for the transfer case.

- Much appreciated buddy, I have some serous research/sourcing to do now

By the way: I also have the 4x4 light on constantly....diagnosis says it's the steering angle sensor, I have a new one but not been successful in replacing it...should I hold off with this until I get INPA started and clearing any codes the Tcase might throw? Could that be a possibility?

[Awntchi]

Originally Posted by colejv

* Glue back some of the inner plastic molds and "clip holders" in the door cards

I have been doing this lately, I picked up a four pack of these from my local lowes for around 20$ used a wire brush on my dremel to clean up the plastic parts and rough up the glue still stuck to the cork/whatever door bits being careful so that the install line was still present, then gluing with gorilla glue

Thanks colejy, did you use actual glue or Epoxy of some sort? Ideally I would really like to get the same stuff BMW uses but from where and what is it called?

[colejv]

I used the original gorilla glue which expands as it cures which should help with the textured plastic and the fact that I did not remove the existing glue only ruffed up the surface, I read that dealerships would use 3m windshield adhesive to do repairs . The factory glue does not seem to adhere to the plastic very well but sticks to the door panel very well to the point that the glue I did manage to remove took a small layer of the door material with it. I can't speak to longevity yet I guess I can report back in a year or two when I am replacing a door carrier or window regulator

[g300d]

No problem bud!

Steering angle sensor replacement is all done at the driver's footwell by the pedal. But you will need BMW software to calibrate.

The fluid might be from the front and or rear crankshaft seals if you really have no fluid loss anywhere else. But hopefully it's just scattered fluid from your minor leaks. I guess you can address the obviously leaking stuff then you can check if it those areas are still wet, hopefully not.

For the cooling system it looks good so far, I would also check the heater hoses that are sometimes easy to forget. I had a slow leak on the water distribution plate on the 4.6, those can fail also.

Squeaks sound like ball joints to me? Maybe have a helper steer back and forth while listening under the car? The sticking I cant think of a reason for at the moment.

Oh, and I meant just the rack end assembly which is the ball joint to the spindle and ball joint attached to the rack. The whole steering rack is expensive! I am looking at complete racks myself as I have a slight knocking noise traced to the inside of the racks of both the 4.6 and 3.0. Remans are almost $1000!

The transfer case fluid can be done DiY, no need to see the dealer except maybe get the fluid. Fluid is available online.

Hopefully you get the INPA/DIS working, it will pay for itself just getting your steering angle sensor working again.

Lastly, for the door panel plastic brackets, I had to repair mine and from what I see they use some sort of epoxy. The board looks too porous for glue to hold. I used an epoxy on mine and worked great, holding fine after a few door carrier replacements.

[Thaniel]

I used construction adhesive to glue back together my door cards when I had the door cards off installing speakers. I had to take the door apart to fix a window regulator and everything stayed together even when pulling it apart again. Looks like it's holding well. I clamped the pieces together while they tried. Not sure how important that is. But I think it is good practice.

[Awntchi]

You guys are awesome, thank you for all the info and I'm sorry for late reply.

The door cards: I will visit the one place where I MIGHT find industrial adhesive or larger amounts of glue/epoxy (small town), hopefully they'll be able to help me.

g300d:
I tried replacing the sensor myself 3 times but haven't been successful in getting the old one out, I can't for the life in me figure out how to push the steering rod into the floor. Have you done this?

Thanks for clarifying the steering rod thing, that's exactly what I will do. I only use the dealer for fluids and certain parts nowadays, never for work.

It will take me some time to get to the bottom of all this as the X is my daily driver AND I have no access to lift/working area for longer periods :/ , but I will keep you guys posted.

[Awntchi]

Quick update: I got INPA working now (Win10) after realizing a mistake during installation. Scanned the car yesterday and got more codes than I hoped for haha Although most of them are minor and went away after clearing them. The two main points of concern are:

1. Steering angle sensor, the diagnosis gives calibration as the issue but I've tried the steering lock to lock without success. Also, clearing the code doesn't even put the light out, not for a second even! I need help understanding how to push the steering column into the floor so I can replace the SAS...open for suggestions!

2. Transfer case - g300 was right on the money here , Diagnosis says "detection of noise" and suggests fluid change. Any recommendation on where I can buy this fluid? (dealer in no option for me in this case)

The gearbox did throw 1 fault that said "hard downshift" which is exactly what's been happening to me (2nd to 1st) but after clearing the code and going out for a spin it seems to be ok now...smooth shifting. Is that normal?