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#1
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One of those "different" types... - 2001 3.0i
I'm Cody, and I live near Flint, MI. A few months ago, I picked up an E53 with some issues, over all the systems. Traded my old VW Rabbit Pickup for it, because as much as I loved that, I didn't really fit in it due to my awkward stature. Got uncomfortable on any drive more than a half hour. I'm mechanically inclined, enough to be dangerous anyways. Not afraid to try working on a newer vehicle. It's a silver base model (if you can call any BMW a base model) with a moonroof and an automatic. That's about it. It's lived a rough life here in Flint for most of its life, I'm sure. At 125k, the miles are low and the running condition of the M54 and the auto trans are actually quite fantastic. Here's a checklist of what it needs over the next few months while I start to enjoy driving it: Tires - Done (32" BFG All-Terrain KMs, 255/75/17) Alignment - to be done tonight (will determine full extent of damage from it's two-accident history) Body Damage - to be pulled Rear shocks - nice and squeaky originals in there now Front sway bar Links - clunkety clunk Windshield - nice big spider in the upper left corner, not in my view Valve cover gasket - I changed it once, it still leaks, need to attempt it again HVAC control panel - most buttons work, it makes excellent heat and AC, the dual zone works nicely, but the fan speed button is kaput Power window work - doesn't every E53 need it? (driver regulator replaced, switch panel needs work, driver rear needs regulator) Engine sensors - thermostat code, cam sensor codes Brakes - at least fronts Battery - seems like it's weakening from the few months I've been storing it and hardly starting it FSU - replaced due to constant-on fan blower, works flawlessly now Here are some pictures of the piece of work, including a few with the new (used) tires: |
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#2
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Welcome! Looks like you have quiet the project
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03 3.0i mt 89 325is |
#3
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Nice! I've got an '01 3.0i as well. It sounds like you've got a good plan to get everything dialed in.
Regarding rear shocks: I had rear camber problems on mine when I first got it. Ended up replacing some rear suspension components to fix that. Main issue was the carrier ball joints. But my shocks are still original at all corners at 170k+ miles. When doing the rear suspension work, I found that the squeaking I had been hearing was entirely due to the rubber pads at the top and bottom of the spring. Removing all that, cleaning, greasing, and reassembling has made it silent again. I've worked on many cars for many years, and this is one of those where it seems you really need to keep all systems running the way they should. The car is so (perhaps unnecessarily) complicated that little glitches here and there can cause problems and difficulty in diagnosing things. For example, this site has multiple threads on cases where people get themselves locked out of their car (leading to expense, inconvenience, and other problems) because they only have one key, the battery in their key fob or car dies, and their driver's door lock mechanism (the only exterior mechanical lock) ALL fail at the same time. Well, not really at the same time, just that they did not think it was a problem until they were all dead at the same time. Most cars are not like this. Keep everything in good shape and you'll be good.
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2001 X5 3.0i, 203k miles, AT, owned since 2014 |
#4
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I was in Flint from 1973 through 1978 attending General Motors Institute (now Kettering University) so I know what vehicles encounter in the winter up there - enough salt to cure a truckload of hams! Make sure you give the underside a good pressure wash and inspect your brake lines. There's other threads on from members that show what covers to remove and what to look for. Welcome!
2002 X5 3.0 313,800 miles 2014 428i 23,700 miles 2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles 2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles 1970 Firebird (my college ride) - under restoration |
#5
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Quote:
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I do believe, after the alignment shop said they can't do anything to cure the rear alignment or any of the camber issues, that I've got a few arms or bolts to replace. Front left wheel is 1.5* positive camber. Leaning out at top. Camber bolt to adjust or likely a lower control arm? I'm thinking it hit a curb. Rear right wheel is 2.5* negative camber. Leaning in at top. Impact on fender likely caused this. Perhaps upper control arm is bent? Both rear tires have toe in the same direction, as if the rear subframe is slightly tweaked in one direction. It's something like 0.2*, so it's not a major concern at this time. Both front tires have excellent caster and toe properties now. Camber is my largest concern for wear at the moment. Any help that can be offered? Quote:
Yes, winter is hell. Especially now that I live in the boonies out to the west of Flint, where the roads are dirt and not plowed often. Yesterday's storm left us with 10" of snow. Nothing our excellent snow tires throughout our fleet couldn't handle. The X5 is the only AWD vehicle we have at the moment. I have a VW Golf AllTrack waiting in the wings pending a lemon law settlement. There's a reason all my oldies are in storage. They're all rust free 80's cars. BMW 635, Olds Cutlass, VW Jetta, Volvo 740, Mercedes 300SD... I do need to wash it thoroughly, but it cleans up halfway decently for the life it has lived thus far. I will surely keep an eye on that, but when I got the car a few months ago, I thoroughly inspected for rust, only to find absolutely zero. It's the only reason I went forth with it, knowing it was someone's beater before.
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Current BMWs: 2001 E53 3.0i 5A - 32" BFG All-Terrains - A Restoration Project 1989 BMW 635csi - 17" Style 5s, Alpinweiss II over Natur leather, M30B35 Other Garage-mates: 2016 VW Golf SportWagen SE - Leaky Pano Sunroof 1983 Oldsmobile Hurst/Olds Cutlass Calais - Lightning Rods 1988 Volvo 745 Wagon - Awaiting a Ford heart transplant 2013 VW Beetle Turbo - Her daily 1990 VW Jetta Coupe VR6 - Her fun car - AutoFlex coated 1984 Mercedes 300SD - Her cruise ship |
#6
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Welcome to the family!
All the tips tricks and pitfalls to avoid are posted here. The 3.0 issues and fixes are well documented (review the E39 forums as well) so you in good hands. Valve cover leaks are normal on your first attempt. Lots of posts on solving the far back corner point and not replacing all the rubber grommets causing additional points of leakage during the process. Good luck it will be worth the efforts. Hopefully your home has a non-lead pipe leading from the street mainline to the faucet!
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2005 X5 4.8IS The Blue ones are always FASTER.... Current Garage: 2005 X5 4.8is 2002 M5 TiSilver 2003 525iT 1998 528i Former Garage Stable Highlights 2004 325XiT Sport 1973 De Tomaso Pantera, L Model 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp Alpine White 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green 1971 Dart Sport, “Dart Light” package 1969 Road Runner 383 1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green |
#7
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Welcome and good luck with the X5 world. Make sure the CCV is also clear before doing another valve cover job in case thats plugged up.
I'm curious to hear more about the Golf Alltrack story. Aren't those fairly new? Please post a link if you have already covered it in another forum or something.
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2001 BMW X5 3.0 Sold 2008 VW jetta S 2006 Lexus Rx400h |
#8
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I do really like it more than I thought I would a newer model BMW. Thankfully I only live "near" Flint, not in its walls! Same county, different (well) water system. Quote:
Mine will look identical to this:
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Current BMWs: 2001 E53 3.0i 5A - 32" BFG All-Terrains - A Restoration Project 1989 BMW 635csi - 17" Style 5s, Alpinweiss II over Natur leather, M30B35 Other Garage-mates: 2016 VW Golf SportWagen SE - Leaky Pano Sunroof 1983 Oldsmobile Hurst/Olds Cutlass Calais - Lightning Rods 1988 Volvo 745 Wagon - Awaiting a Ford heart transplant 2013 VW Beetle Turbo - Her daily 1990 VW Jetta Coupe VR6 - Her fun car - AutoFlex coated 1984 Mercedes 300SD - Her cruise ship |
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