Key Fob Issue

[CleanIsFast]

Okay so ever since I purchased the vehicle, neither one of the key fobs actually work in unlocking/locking the vehicle via the buttons. Everything has to be manually done; inserting key into door lock and to start the vehicle as well. It's not a HUGE deal to me but it does get annoying from time to time when I forget to lock the vehicle when I walk away and have to go back.

So, before I start to throw money at the issue I started to do some research. Came across numerous threads spanning different chassis models. Some of the troubleshoot items are cheap and others are expensive. I honestly don't think it's a battery issue because from what I read those batteries should last a very long time. I won't get into a debate about it because it'll turn into an oil thread.

Initially I sent one key fob off to California for repair. (www.bmwgm5.com/bmwgm5/kr.htm) Reason I did this was because when I would unlock the car (manually), open the door, the interior lights would come on. IF the interior lights didn't come on, I believe this would be a general module issue. After 2 weeks (which is stupid long), I received the key fob back. If the battery was bad, he would've replaced it, this was not the case. Excited, I followed the directions to 'sync' the key to the vehicle:

1. Working from within the vehicle and with the doors shut
2. Turn ignition to position 1 and back to off within 5 seconds.
3. Remove the key from ignition and press and hold the unlock button for 15 seconds during this time press the key lock button 3 times within 5 seconds.
4. Release both buttons.
5. Doors will lock and unlock to show correct programming has occurred.

Step 5 never occured, the sync didn't seem to work. Continuing to research some people said to keep the key in position 2, then hold the unlock button, take the key out, press lock 3 times. That did NOT work either.


So at this point I am back at square one, still troubleshooting. My next step is to check the fuses (which I probably should've checked first). I believe I need to check fuse(s) 20, 24, 60 for the central locking system. Please correc me if I am wrong. I am really hoping it's just a fuse and not the next step.


Next step would be to look at the FZV Antenna
- https://www.bmwgm5.com/FZV_Antenna_Amp.htm
- Location: https://www.bmwgm5.com/Images/FZV/FZV_X5_Location.jpg
- Module: https://www.bmwgm5.com/Images/FZV/FZV_X5_Module.jpg


After that I am not really sure what to check? The actual GM3 module? It's located behind the glove box, removal instructions here:
https://www.bmwgm5.com/GM3_X5_Removal.htm
Information: https://www.bmwgm5.com/

Possibly just biting the bullet and buying a set of new key fobs? BMW Fairfax has them for $140, but I am sure they charge you for programming the keys.


Here is some info from QSilver7:

Originally Posted by QSilver7

Against better judgement (since the original post date was Aug/2009....6+ years ago)...there was no mention if the OP ever tried simply re-initializing their remote key since it hadn't been used for a long time. For posterity sake...the instructions on how to reinitialize the FZV/DWA features of the remote keys (old & new style) are listed below.

Also...there was no distinction between EWS/FZV/DWA...so the 3 features of the remote keys was glossed over as if there's only one function/one system...when there's actually 3 systems involved with the remote keys:

• EWS - immobilizing system (no start if key doesn't match EWS-CM & DME/ECU)
• FZV - central locking system
• DWA - anti-theft alarm siren system

EWS is self powered (thru induction) and doesn't require the battery inside the remote key. Only the FZV & DWA features of the key require the battery inside to transmit the RF signal to the car.

The no start issue after the OP opened the key to replace the battery...probably was due to the OP damaging the circuit board when they broke the key open. If not careful...one can cut resisters & capacitors off the IC board...are cut/scratch the traces on on the board or antenna...thus rendering the key non-workable.

Not just any locksmith can "program" or initialize the EWS portion of the remote keys. If you and the locksmith are unfamiliar with EWS and how it works/performs...then more than likely you're in for a big disappointment.

If the "locksmith" DOES understand BMW's EWS system...and you don't...then you've struck gold and may end up saving yourself a lot of money. They will need an AK90 set-up to retrieve the ISN (individual serial number) data and key codes that have been burned into the EWS-CM...then have the ability to write that data to a blank EEPROM (transponder chip) that has to be somewhere inside the new remote key. If not...the key will not be able to start the car on its own...even if they cut the blade correctly.

Any BMW remote key that was mfg'd for the e38/e39/e46/e52/e53...are all compatible in regards to FZV & DWA. Any of these keys (old style or new style) can be programmed to lock/unlock & arm/disarm any of the aforementioned BMW models. The caveat is...the new style keys are charged while in the ignition...so if you don't have a way of charging the new style key...then the battery dies along with your ability to use it as a remote/keyless entry tool.

Hope these few comments helps clarify some of the many misconceptions owners have about their remote keys. The topic is oft discussed (to death)...but continues to bewilder/befuddle/bewitch owners.

[jsoto]

Could be your antenna or module....

FWIW, I sent my 2 keys in to Scott recently. One of our keys stopped locked. All funtions worked otherwise. Bad switch on mainboard I suppose.

Other key was flawless, but it would not crank the car.

Both keys have been back for about 2-3 months. No issues sofar.
I knew the pros/cons of this key repair vs. the other options.
My only gripe, just because I'm OCD like that, is that if you look at the key, you can see it's been cut and reglued. Both keys repaired for a benny. Can't complain

[CleanIsFast]

Originally Posted by jsoto

Could be your antenna or module....

FWIW, I sent my 2 keys in to Scott recently. One of our keys stopped locked. All funtions worked otherwise. Bad switch on mainboard I suppose.

Other key was flawless, but it would not crank the car.

Both keys have been back for about 2-3 months. No issues sofar.
I knew the pros/cons of this key repair vs. the other options.
My only gripe, just because I'm OCD like that, is that if you look at the key, you can see it's been cut and reglued. Both keys repaired for a benny. Can't complain

Glad Scott's repair worked on both your key fobs. It seemed like a fair price for key service and that's why I initially did it. I haven't sent the other key fob, wondering if I should bite the bullet, send that one for repair and see if that one works at all upon return.

Yea my key came back with residue all over it from the adhesive he used. Kind of a shotty job if you ask me. I'll take a look at the Antenna this afternoon and see if something sticks out right away.

[jsoto]

Yeah. I ended up cleaning up all the seams as well as the one *inside* the loop hole.
I think you should hold off on the key repair. It sounds like it may not be your keys but something further downstream.....

[Qsilver7]

TIP: when initializing remote keys...make sure that ALL doors are UNLOCKED as well as CLOSED

If you were to purchase new keys...the only programming required is the FZV/DWA programming info that you already have. EWS will already be programmed with the correct ISN number that's been programmed into your EWS control module the day the vehicle rolled off the assembly line.

When you lock the vehicle with the key (using the driver's door lock)...does the fuel filler flap door lock (walk around and check if you haven't)? How about the DWA (clown nose) LED below the rear view mirror?

The DWA system shares some "monitors" with FZV...the door actuators and trunk/tailgate actuators). So if the DWA status LED (below the interior rear view mirror) flashes real fast for 10 seconds, then slows down...it indicates that one or more of the DWA monitors is remaining open. Since DWA & FZV share a few monitors...if that light is flashing real fast and your remote keyless entry isn't functioning...the doors or tailgate could be the fault.

Just a thought.

The chart below indicates the status of the clown nose flashes:

[CleanIsFast]

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

When you lock the vehicle with the key (using the driver's door lock)...does the fuel filler flap door lock (walk around and check if you haven't)? How about the DWA (clown nose) LED below the rear view mirror?

The DWA system shares some "monitors" with FZV...the door actuators and trunk/tailgate actuators). So if the DWA status LED (below the interior rear view mirror) flashes real fast for 10 seconds, then slows down...it indicates that one or more of the DWA monitors is remaining open. Since DWA & FZV share a few monitors...if that light is flashing real fast and your remote keyless entry isn't functioning...the doors or tailgate could be the fault.

Just a thought.

Thanks Q, i'll give it a shot this afternoon and check.

[mhoehn]

my issue ended up being the power wire (red) to the module. the module is mounted in the top of the tailgate. the wire goes through the bundle, and gets flexed each time the tailgate is opened/closed. pealed back the bundle cover, and found the red wire broken. simple splice, all works now.

[CleanIsFast]

Originally Posted by mhoehn

my issue ended up being the power wire (red) to the module. the module is mounted in the top of the tailgate. the wire goes through the bundle, and gets flexed each time the tailgate is opened/closed. pealed back the bundle cover, and found the red wire broken. simple splice, all works now.

Thanks mhoehn! I'll check this as well and report back

[Qsilver7]

Originally Posted by mhoehn

my issue ended up being the power wire (red) to the module. the module is mounted in the top of the tailgate. the wire goes through the bundle, and gets flexed each time the tailgate is opened/closed. pealed back the bundle cover, and found the red wire broken. simple splice, all works now.

That's a good suggestion.

Images below may be helpful in giving a "visual" perspective to your suggestion.

[wpoll]

Fuse #86 in the trunk fuse panel powers the antenna module - check this as if it's missing or blown, the keyless entry won't work.