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  #1  
Old 08-28-2016, 10:53 PM
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N62 Engine Making Cricket Noise

Hey guys whenever I drive my car into my garage I can hear a noise that sounds like a cricket noise and its only audible at low rpms and happens once in awhile. I'm thinking it could be the idler pulley or something with the belts. If I wanted to check and see if it's the pulley, can I just leave all the hoses connected, loosen the belt tension and check and see if its the pulley and then put the belt back on without any problems? Also what is the recommended mileage to replace the pulleys and serpentine belts?
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Old 08-29-2016, 08:20 AM
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Yes you can if you can reach it, but it's kinda tight. It's a lot easier to see what's going on with the fan and shroud out.
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Old 09-01-2016, 01:49 AM
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Originally Posted by g300d View Post
Yes you can if you can reach it, but it's kinda tight. It's a lot easier to see what's going on with the fan and shroud out.
Thanks for the help! I'll check it when I have the time
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Old 09-01-2016, 01:48 PM
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Plus one for the "remove belt and confirm noise is gone" approach. Drop the bottom engine cover and remove belt. While there spin the idler and tensioner.
If OE at 100K, replace them all with new belts.
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  #5  
Old 09-01-2016, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by StephenVA View Post


Plus one for the "remove belt and confirm noise is gone" approach. Drop the bottom engine cover and remove belt. While there spin the idler and tensioner.
If OE at 100K, replace them all with new belts.
Thanks for the reply! My car is OE almost everything in the engine bay at 103k miles. Belts show no signs of cracking or anything. But for future reference, when you replace all the belts, is it required to replace all the tensioners as well or only replace the tensioners when it is making a noise? I know for timing belts you replace the tensioner at the same time but never had to deal with a serpentine belt.
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Old 09-02-2016, 09:01 AM
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Standard shop practice: if you have to touch it, replace everything.

In a DIY world I would recommend one of two approaches:
1. Replace everything if you are planning a long term relationship.
2. Replace the belts, test for looseness and listen for bushing failures on the idler but I would replace the two tensioners (one on the AC side and one on the Alternator/WP side) as they are easy to gain access to and have the higher wear/failure rates.

NOTHING is worse than doing it twice. Besides, winter is coming (here in the top side of the world) and everything that is on the edge seems to fails when it is cold and miserable outside. (Example: Ever tired knocking the ball joints and spindle off a vehicle when it is snowing? NOT PRETTY )
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2005 X5 4.8IS
The Blue ones are always FASTER....

Current Garage:
2005 X5 4.8is
2002 M5 TiSilver
2003 525iT
1998 528i
Former Garage Stable Highlights
2004 325XiT Sport
1973 De Tomaso Pantera, L Model
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp Alpine White
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green
1971 Dart Sport, “Dart Light” package
1969 Road Runner 383
1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green
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  #7  
Old 09-02-2016, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StephenVA View Post
Standard shop practice: if you have to touch it, replace everything.

In a DIY world I would recommend one of two approaches:
1. Replace everything if you are planning a long term relationship.
2. Replace the belts, test for looseness and listen for bushing failures on the idler but I would replace the two tensioners (one on the AC side and one on the Alternator/WP side) as they are easy to gain access to and have the higher wear/failure rates.

NOTHING is worse than doing it twice. Besides, winter is coming (here in the top side of the world) and everything that is on the edge seems to fails when it is cold and miserable outside. (Example: Ever tired knocking the ball joints and spindle off a vehicle when it is snowing? NOT PRETTY )

Thanks possibly will be doing a diy very soon!
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