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#41
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#42
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Hey, your results may vary. Obviously that is a best case scenario.
But if the axle nut won't come off, you haven't lost much. Return the stuff, call a shop. I thought that was implied with anyone that lives north of the I10. But you might be able to guesstimate that by looking at it. If it looks like the Edmund Fitzgerald, then maybe don't attempt.
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2001 E53 3.0 5pd |
#43
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Woah! An Edmund Fitzgerald reference. I'll have to put on some Gordon Lightfoot later.
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2005 X5 4.4i Build 04/05 Maintenance/Build Log Nav, Pano, Sport (Purchased 06/14 w/ 109,000 miles) (Sold 8/15 w/121,000 miles) 2006 X5 4.8is Build 11/05 Maintenance/Build Log Nav, DSP, Pano, Running Boards, OEM Tow Hitch, Cold Weather Pckg (Purchased 08/15 w/ 90,500 miles) 2010 X5 35d Build 02/10 Nav, HiFi, 6 DVD, Sports Pckg, Cold Weather Pckg, HUD, CAS, Running Boards, Leather Dash, PDC, Pano (Purchased 03/17 w/ 136,120 miles) |
#44
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Who'd have guessed.
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2001 E53 3.0 5pd |
#45
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Update :
Finished the repair, The random noise was from brakes, because they were almost gone. so I changed front brakes and rotoros and sensors with OEM brakes. and also I replaced the front axle CV boots. The mechanic said the car is in a great shape. and everything is perfect. happiness ! |
#46
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That's a CV boot. It's possible, in theory, to take the CV joint apart and clean it, pack it full of grease, and put a new boot on. What has happened to you is that the boot blew out and the grease has been thrown out due to the rotation. When the grease is gone, water and dirt get in and this is bad for the needle bearings inside. If you take the bearings out and clean them very well, they might not be destroyed to the point that you cannot put the joint back together and get thousands of miles of continued service. It's entirely possible that the bearings are toast, but you cannot tell until you take the joint apart. They make a grease especially for lubricating CV joints, I think it's molybdenum, and you can get it at the auto parts store. The typical failure mode of a CV joint is that it makes a clicking noise when the steering wheel is turned full lock. Go to a parking lot and turn the wheel all of the way and go in a circle, then go the other way. I'm not certain, but the inside wheel will click if it's the one giving trouble. Just because the boot is torn does not, in itself, mean that the joint is toast, although it doesn't look good for the joint. If the boot tore a week or a month ago, and you have not driven in the rain, then you should be okay. If the boot tore several months ago and you took the car swimming across the local Montezuma Crossing (a roadway that crosses a creek with water in it), then you might have trouble with cleaning the CV joint. You can take the axle shaft out and then make the decision to put a new one in or rebuild it. If the store will take the replacement back, then you might want to buy it to have on hand in case you need it. |
#47
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If you replace the boot, you MUST also replace the "hose clamps" that hold it on. You cannot use the clamps that you normally see on a hose because the screw will cause a vibration as it spins around. Get the same kind of clamps that are on the car now, there's a reason that they are used. You will absolutely destroy the old ones getting them off. There are 2, one of them is large, the other is small.
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#48
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^ +1
The OE style clamps are the crimp style which require those ear crimp pliers or whatever the hell theyre called. You can also use band it style clamps which require a separate winding tool. Both tools are on Amazon for around $20 or less. Hose clamps are too wide and you won't have uniform compression around the groove. And for god sakes, don't use zip ties.
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2005 BMW X5 3.0i 2013 BMW M3 Competition |
#49
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#50
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