63,000 Mile M54 swap. Pics -- Engine Porn

[tecboy99]

So, recently I was fortunate enough to find a really good deal on a 63,000 mile M54 out of a rolled 330i. I wasn't really sure about how well the engine was cared for, but it was only $200, So I bought it. I bought it with the intention of resealing it, and putting it into my 6 speed X5 when I do a clutch replacement in the spring, since this engine has 100,000 less miles. I started tearing into it yesterday. I had no idea it would be in as good of condition as it is. Here are a few pics. I'll keep this thread updated when I do the swap.

[Joshdub]

[Ricky Bobby]

Holy fuckkkk that engine is clean

[Fifty150hs]

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

Holy fuckkkk that engine is clean

I second that! I don't think you need to worry about how that engine was cared for. It's obviously well taken care of.

[Green Dragon]

Wow! I'm all sorts of jelly. Looks good man. Real good. Button her back up and proceed with the transplant. I would say go ahead and do some head work on it, port and polish, and flow bench it, but I couldn't justify molesting such a clean minty motor like that.

I'm looking for a motor as well to tear down and rebuild with some enhancements along the way. Amazing find for $200 bucks.

[crystalworks]

Ooooohhhhhh... so pretty.

[Green Dragon]

Just a though. While its on a stand, Address the engine harmonics/oil pump nut issue and put in a good metal impellered waterpump. There are a couple ways to address this and it depends on a few factors to what level of countermeasures to use. I've read its not a typical issue with street driven cars, but if you spend some time above 6k rpm where the harmonics get a bit nasty, it would be worth doing. Not sure what your plans are for the clutch and flywheel setup. if you go to a single mass or lightwhieght flywheel setup then for sure.

[tecboy99]

Originally Posted by Green Dragon

Just a though. While its on a stand, Address the engine harmonics/oil pump nut issue and put in a good metal impellered waterpump. There are a couple ways to address this and it depends on a few factors to what level of countermeasures to use. I've read its not a typical issue with street driven cars, but if you spend some time above 6k rpm where the harmonics get a bit nasty, it would be worth doing. Not sure what your plans are for the clutch and flywheel setup. if you go to a single mass or lightwhieght flywheel setup then for sure.

Already ahead of you. I just ordered a oil pump but from turner motorsport that is drilled for lock wire. it can be secured around the round holes in the oil pump sprocket. For the clutch, I'm planning on doing a Valeo single mass. It's only a pound or so lighter than the stock single mass. Besides the oil pump nut, do you have any other recommendations to reduce harmonics?

[Joshdub]

There are some guys who race their 330is on e46 fanatics. They say you need to run a new lightweight front crank pulley (~1k last I checked) when running a lwfw. That fixes the issue allegedly. According to them running just a lwfw makes it worse.

[Green Dragon]

Originally Posted by tecboy99

Already ahead of you. I just ordered a oil pump but from turner motorsport that is drilled for lock wire. it can be secured around the round holes in the oil pump sprocket. For the clutch, I'm planning on doing a Valeo single mass. It's only a pound or so lighter than the stock single mass. Besides the oil pump nut, do you have any other recommendations to reduce harmonics?

Joshdub is correct. ATI makes a really nice but spendy harmonic balancer/pulley. I would contemplate a new oem unit at a minimum and replace it intervals as they don't do as well of a job with age and mileage. I just got access to a CNC mill. I'm looking to make one and try it out. Harmonics is an interesting bit of physics. The BMW I6 dosen't typically manifest harmonics like this till the 6th order. However, there are some nuances with the m54b30 that contribute to it appearing in an earlier order above 6k rpm. Aluminum block and the long stroke may contribute to this. BMW did revise the harmonic balancer for the m54b30, and it seems most of the failures occured with early M54's ('01 or so) and very frequent with motors that were tracked, very high and long sustained RPM's above 6k. Street driven vehicles have not seen but a very small number of failures that I've gathered and were early production.

Going to a single mass setup, you will want to run a sprung clutch disk. I have sourced a 22 tooth 240mm clutch disk with your choice of performance organic/kevlar, etc. About $150. You can source one through clutchmasters as well, but when I called them they quoted about 300 for one. (I'm leading you down the path of a budget build UUC kit...you can hate me.) You can use many of the glorious lightweight flywheel offerings for the s52 and 330's etc. ( just check the ring gear for the starter.) There are machined adapters for the pilot bearing to be pressed in to adapt it. Cluthmasters also makes one now for us 6-speed guys for about 500. Fidanza makes the one for UUC. Its a 13.5lb flywheel. I wouldn't go below that. There are some nice forged cromoly ones that are 14.5 lbs for around 250-ish. UUC uses the pressure plate sourced from a euro M3, but there are other good options that are less money for similar spec. (get rid of the self adjusting clutch)

By going away from the dual mass, your removing a harmonic balancer of sorts from the rear of the crankshaft. This is where you get transmission chatter as the power pulses are not as dampened as well and are transmitted down the drive line. Its minimal, but present. The lighter you go, more apparent it becomes and affects moment of inertia, etc. I'm giving a call to Rob L on Monday to discus it with him and I'll share his input. BY MAKING these changes, you maybe making things better and not worse because your are changing the dynamics. It could go the other way too. I'll add more soon.