Car not starting

[SeattleBimmer]

Hello,

This is my first post so bear with me. I am including as much information as I can even if it may seem irrelevant. This way if I made a wrong assumption, you guys can point that out. I've read everything on this issue and could use some other ideas.

The car:
2006 X5 4.4 N62 engine, 108K miles

Experience: I'm fairly inexperienced but am very competent if there are detailed DYI videos or forums. TO give you an idea, I recently completed changing out the valve stem seals using the AGA tools.

Issue: Car will not start. It does not crank. It drove fine the days before. No dash board battery light or check engine. Never had any indicators like long cranks before starting. The only issue I had was a slight leak from the coolant hose connection into the firewall. I removed this hose to remove the valve covers. The leak was due to not fully tightening the hose clamps. The leak does not drip onto any electrical components that i'm aware of. I noticed the smoke from the coolant leaking on to the hot engine for a few days (didn't have time to fix so I kept adding coolant). I finally park the car in my garage and proceed to remove the cowl that houses the cabin air filter, along with the air vents to be able to get to the hose clamps. Tighten the hose clamps, topped off the coolant. Go to start the car and no sound but a single click.

Diagnosed:
1) Assumed the battery was weak so I jumped the car and it started so I thought I was right about the battery.
2) Removed the battery and brought it to Napa to get it checked and they said it was fine.
3) I decided to charge to the battery overnight. Tried to start next day and still no crank.
4) Thought maybe the battery was fine but nearing the end so decided to get a new battery. As far as I can tell, the old battery was not an AGM battery so I got a standard battery which also meant I did not need to register the battery.
5) Next I checked the starter. Removed the starter and brought to Napa, they tested it twice. I personally tested the starter at home as well (just curious cause i've never done it). Solenoid worked fine, motor worked fine, cleaned up the starter connections, re-installed starter, still no crank
6) checked all my fuses in the DME box (passenger engine bay near window) except the Integrated Supply Module (more on this later). Checked fuses in the glove box, checked fuses in the rear trunk. The only blown fuse I found was for the cigarette lighter.
7) decided to check relays next, could not find a relay for the starter. I've read other forums that this model may not have a starter relay. Either way it was very hard to get a definitive answer to if this relay exists and where its located so I just checked a few of the relays I thought could be the starter relay in the DME box.
8) Read that the EWS could be the problem. I decided to order a new key from BMW ($250) thought i would need a second key anyways so killing 2 birds with 1 stone. I tried the second key, same result, no crank.
9) Tested the ignition switch voltage to the starter. With the key turned to the ignition position, there was voltage going to the starter lead. The voltage across read 11.5. I checked the battery right after and it was 12.5 so I'm not sure what that means. This could be why even with a new battery the car won't start because the volt at the ignition switch is less than a full battery. I'm thinking of changing out the ignition switch for peace of mind but I don't have any other symptoms of a failing ignition switch so i'm a bit skeptical that this will resolve the issue.

My next steps will be to change out Ignition switch and then the Integrated Supply Module. I've read that this could be the issue. And if this doesn't solve the problem then i'm stumped. If its a failing EWS then that way above my level so i'm bringing it to the dealer.

The other thing I haven't looked at is the alternator. I'm not really sure how this could be the problem since my problem is not a draining battery but I did recently partially remove the alternator to get to the upper timing case gasket so I'm worried maybe I did something. Additionally when I removed the coolant hoses, there was some spillage that could have damaged the alternator. Does this sound feasible?

And yes I have checked the battery connections, they are very clean and secured.

Any ideas?

[jopecasa]

Originally Posted by SeattleBimmer

Hello,

This is my first post so bear with me. I am including as much information as I can even if it may seem irrelevant. This way if I made a wrong assumption, you guys can point that out. I've read everything on this issue and could use some other ideas.

The car:
2006 X5 4.4 N62 engine, 108K miles

Experience: I'm fairly inexperienced but am very competent if there are detailed DYI videos or forums. TO give you an idea, I recently completed changing out the valve stem seals using the AGA tools.

Issue: Car will not start. It does not crank. It drove fine the days before. No dash board battery light or check engine. Never had any indicators like long cranks before starting. The only issue I had was a slight leak from the coolant hose connection into the firewall. I removed this hose to remove the valve covers. The leak was due to not fully tightening the hose clamps. The leak does not drip onto any electrical components that i'm aware of. I noticed the smoke from the coolant leaking on to the hot engine for a few days (didn't have time to fix so I kept adding coolant). I finally park the car in my garage and proceed to remove the cowl that houses the cabin air filter, along with the air vents to be able to get to the hose clamps. Tighten the hose clamps, topped off the coolant. Go to start the car and no sound but a single click.

Diagnosed:
1) Assumed the battery was weak so I jumped the car and it started so I thought I was right about the battery.
2) Removed the battery and brought it to Napa to get it checked and they said it was fine.
3) I decided to charge to the battery overnight. Tried to start next day and still no crank.
4) Thought maybe the battery was fine but nearing the end so decided to get a new battery. As far as I can tell, the old battery was not an AGM battery so I got a standard battery which also meant I did not need to register the battery.
5) Next I checked the starter. Removed the starter and brought to Napa, they tested it twice. I personally tested the starter at home as well (just curious cause i've never done it). Solenoid worked fine, motor worked fine, cleaned up the starter connections, re-installed starter, still no crank
6) checked all my fuses in the DME box (passenger engine bay near window) except the Integrated Supply Module (more on this later). Checked fuses in the glove box, checked fuses in the rear trunk. The only blown fuse I found was for the cigarette lighter.
7) decided to check relays next, could not find a relay for the starter. I've read other forums that this model may not have a starter relay. Either way it was very hard to get a definitive answer to if this relay exists and where its located so I just checked a few of the relays I thought could be the starter relay in the DME box.
8) Read that the EWS could be the problem. I decided to order a new key from BMW ($250) thought i would need a second key anyways so killing 2 birds with 1 stone. I tried the second key, same result, no crank.
9) Tested the ignition switch voltage to the starter. With the key turned to the ignition position, there was voltage going to the starter lead. The voltage across read 11.5. I checked the battery right after and it was 12.5 so I'm not sure what that means. This could be why even with a new battery the car won't start because the volt at the ignition switch is less than a full battery. I'm thinking of changing out the ignition switch for peace of mind but I don't have any other symptoms of a failing ignition switch so i'm a bit skeptical that this will resolve the issue.

My next steps will be to change out Ignition switch and then the Integrated Supply Module. I've read that this could be the issue. And if this doesn't solve the problem then i'm stumped. If its a failing EWS then that way above my level so i'm bringing it to the dealer.

The other thing I haven't looked at is the alternator. I'm not really sure how this could be the problem since my problem is not a draining battery but I did recently partially remove the alternator to get to the upper timing case gasket so I'm worried maybe I did something. Additionally when I removed the coolant hoses, there was some spillage that could have damaged the alternator. Does this sound feasible?

And yes I have checked the battery connections, they are very clean and secured.

Any ideas?

What error codes are you getting?

[squidzilla]

It has a starter relay. I would check the fuses associated with the starter with a fuse tester and also swap out the starter relay with an identical one that you don't need ( I swapped my rear defrogger relay with the m62 unloader relay to see if that solved a problem I had). RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

Your rear window defogger relay should be the same as the starter relay. Light green...

[Joshdub]

First off, welcome fellow Seattlite. Secondly, it sounds like you are on the right track. That's odd that there is a voltage drop. If I had to guess, id guess you were correct and that's why it isn't starting. The ignition switch sounds like a good step. Hopefully someone with more electrical experience can chime in.

[SeattleBimmer]

jopecasa,
Using my universal OBDII reader, no error codes.

squidzilla,
The image from Real OEM does not look like my fuse box. I only have 2 relays in the entire box (a brown relay in the upper right corner which I read was the wiper relay, and a blue relay below the brown relay). I tested the blue relay and it was fine. Then there is the Integrated Supply Module (located at the lower right) and 2 ecu/dme control modules (located upper left). I believe my rear defroster relay is located in the trunk, labeled as Rear Window Heat. It does have a light green relay.

[bcredliner]

What is the voltage at the terminals under the hood?

[80stech]

Yes, check voltages and and don't forget about the grounds. If you recently did some work there might be a ground strap forgotten about somewhere.

[SeattleBimmer]

Update:

As I was confirming that my DME fuse box only had 2 relays, I decided to inspect the Integrated Supply Module (ISM) and the fuses on the side of the box.

1) Disconnected the harnesses to the ISM on the top side, pulled the ISM out but did not disconnect the harnesses connected to the bottom of it.
2) Inspected all the fuses in the box. No signs of blown fuses or corrosion.
3) Re-installed the ISM and connected the harnesses.
4) Removed the ignition switch and inspected the internal mechanism. The switch was very clean and did not have any signs of wear or corrosion. While dismantled, i rotated the switch from off, to on, to ignition position a few times. Everything appeared functional so i re-installed the ignition switch.
5) Since the ignition cover was off i decided to test the voltage again. The voltage from the battery terminals under the hood reads 12.18. I guess the car sitting for a few days may have drained it a bit. I tested the voltage at the positive terminal on the ignition switch and it was the same 12.18 volts. AT this point I know there is no voltage drop from the battery to the ignition switch while the key is at the off position.
6) I test the voltage again with the key in the on position, the voltage under the hood is now 11.8 and same with the voltage at the ignition switch.
7) I go to test the voltage at the starter lead of the ignition switch (key turned to ignition position). THE CAR STARTS!!! Wth??? I'm so confused. I did nothing but unplug and plug the harness into the ISM and pulled and re-installed the ignition switch. Could it really have been the problem??

I drove it a block, parked it, and started it again with no problems. The 4x4 light is on though. Not sure if this will go away once I drive it more or if this is another problem. Either way the car starts for now so problem solved, or adverted.

I'll let you guys know if anything else changes.

[bcredliner]

Sounds like you may have a failing ignition switch.The symptoms vary, sometimes there is no more indication other than the engine won't crank and sometimes lots of strange stuff happen. Sometimes you can tap it or unplug it and plug it back and everything will operate normally. If it is the ignition switch it will continue to happen until it completely fails.

[upallnight]

Now go back and use some electrical contact cleaner and dielectric grease on all the contact connections that you just touched and reseated.