My 6hp26 experience

[AV8R4AA]

Where did you find the square and VB seals?

Is that the rectangular item that looks like a square figure 8?
Is that the only seal to replace when doing the solenoid
?

[fmugur]

Originally Posted by AV8R4AA

Where did you find the square and VB seals?

Is that the rectangular item that looks like a square figure 8?
Is that the only seal to replace when doing the solenoid
?

If you haven't replaced these already, it's a good time to do all when you do the solenoids.

new filter BMW part:
24117543550

new oil pan gasket, BMW part:
24117543484

New metatronic seal (round electrics plug seal):
24347588725

valve body seal - BMW part number:
24347588727

4 tubes within trans (BMW) - from the ZF catalog from the ZF transmission parts supplier or ECS or FCP...

2x BMW 24107519314 ZF 01.050
BMW 24107519315 ZF 01.060,
BMW 24107520715 ZF 01.064

[BMW-x5-48is]

Originally Posted by fmugur

Yes, I read it. Good thread. I should have posted my findings on your thread.

I will do the seals/oil/filter on my daughter's 4.4 soon.

Im actually glad you started a new one on your work. The other threat was overloaded with other stuff... Thank you for the pictures, so others can see the exact specifis.. Good luck with everything! Hope you have it shifting super smooth! :-) Its really a durable gearbox, i know its not bulletproof, but thats life.. :/

have a good day

[fmugur]

Just a quick update guys, after almost two months the transmission runs smooth as new. I updated the first post as there is a re-learning procedure after tranny software update or reset.
If you only have 2-1 harsh shift issue this procedure might be all you need to get it fixed, certainly using the latest firmware.

[Clockwork]

this is a dramatically different break-in procedure than what I did last year.
and just to add, this ONLY should be done once something has been changed in the tranny and not just as an attempt to remove the harsh shifting.

I'm getting odd tranny behavious in my 6hp26 and i have been debating on buying a new rebuilt valve body with new solenoids already installed from https://revmaxconverters.com/product...y-mechatronic/

[fmugur]

Originally Posted by Clockwork

this is a dramatically different break-in procedure than what I did last year.
and just to add, this ONLY should be done once something has been changed in the tranny and not just as an attempt to remove the harsh shifting.

I'm getting odd tranny behavious in my 6hp26 and i have been debating on buying a new rebuilt valve body with new solenoids already installed from https://revmaxconverters.com/product...y-mechatronic/

I thought of doing that too but I didn't want to spend that much. This is a reman VB which is better than replacing solenoids. I rebuilt my 5hp24 VB and it's not a big deal. You can buy the kit for 6hp26 and do it yourself.

Now, my understanding from what I read so far is that the re-learning procedure is required after the firmware update or clearing adaptations.
At Vitek, Aaron is the expert on this and he does it always after the firmware update.
What are the symptoms in your case? Only the 1-2 harsh shift?

[Clockwork]

when driving in D (never noticed it in sport more OR when I shift gear), BUT when holding the speed 35-50 km/hr, like around school zones, my tranny seems to be missing. its fine one second then i feel a power loss and it seems like its searching while in that speed.The RPMS are not jumping around at all. SO I'm kinda thinking software or something electrical. If I am accelerating through that speed i never ever feel those symptoms. the last week I've been kicked out of my home for an upcoming house reno and while I'm driving in from Bearspaw, I find the same symptoms are sometimes occuring now when I've cruising at 80km/hr. So I'm thinking of getting a fluid change and ask the guys to remove the pan and take pics of the valve body and solenoid colors and the tag plate so I can order up a rebuilt vb from RevMax Converters for the following reasons:
This is what makes a RevMax ZF 6HP valve body superior to the rest:

Billet anodized solenoid regulator valve
Upgraded solenoids featuring aluminum ball seats that replace the factory plastic seats
Upgraded solenoids featuring aluminum ball seats that replace the factory plastic seats
Billet anodized lubrication / cooler flow valve *
Billet anodized pressure regulator valve *
Billet anodized clutch regulator valves *
Brand new separator plate
Complete Disassembly
Proprietary cleaning process removes all metal and clutch particles by using an automated valve body wash machine.
Ultrasonic cleaning of sensitive valve body parts
Revmax proprietary upgrades
Hand assembled in Charlotte, NC by Qualified and Caring Professionals!!
Mounting Surface Verified and Flat Filed
Threads Checked and Repaired if Needed
Solenoids dyno tested on our solenoid test machine
Computerized testing on our state of the art $125k valve body test machines

PLUS I figure I've got 200k kms on him now and he costs me very little money (will be doing vcg soon and perhaps other preventative maint in engine bay soon) but its still cheaper than buying a newer X5 (and I'm only thinking of a 2012 ////M X5 or newer) if I had to go that route. May as well make the leap a JUMP if I'm going that far.
a few thousand in maintenance at Witeks and he'll be good for another 10 years I think

[Clockwork]

Originally Posted by fmugur

What is the source of this information?

[Clockwork]

I read this in another thread about resetting the trannys adaptation values... I can not verrify if it works as well as using software.

You could perform the 2-1 tip in procedure (key in pos II, gas pedal depressed all the way for 30 sec) which is actually a way to reset adaption values if one doesn't have the software (INPA, GT1, etc)

then perform the break-in procedure you describe.

[CleanIsFast]

Originally Posted by Clockwork

I read this in another thread about resetting the trannys adaptation values... I can not verrify if it works as well as using software.

You could perform the 2-1 tip in procedure (key in pos II, gas pedal depressed all the way for 30 sec) which is actually a way to reset adaption values if one doesn't have the software (INPA, GT1, etc)

then perform the break-in procedure you describe.

holding the gas pedal down for 30 secs does not reset adaptations