Can we reset "adaptation, mixture"?

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by 80stech

Also if Oxygen sensor is reporting "Oxygen rich" it means that you are "fuel lean"

If the fuel trim shows a positive value that means the 02 sensor is reporting a lean condition.

If the fuel trim shows a negative value that means the 02 sensor is reporting a rich condition.

[kevinkay]

my error code is:
"trimming oxygen sensor before cat, bank 2-----too great in rich condition(p1191)

[X53Jay4.8is]

Originally Posted by kevinkay

thanks for staying with me....
intake boot, completely went over - all good
hoses on back of manifold, intake or exhaust? (any rubber hose that I could see I ran my hand across)
brake booster lines,Did not check this - will tomorrow
DISA o-ring(I'm assuming you replace it?) Replaced some time ago, had to give it a good pull to get it off, not flattened and felt confident it was tight
purge hose(front of manifold) humm...replacing the purge valve I did give a good tug to the hose that goes under and towards the exhaust manifiold - cant see where it ends, could I have pulled this off????

Smoke the vehicle to assure that you do not have a vapor leak first

[kevinkay]

Meaning......?
fuel vapors?

Found this online, traveling for the holidays near a Harbor Fright, will this work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZKZQNo5wpY

THANKS!

so much info on "lean" codes, not too much on "rich"

[DSSA]

Originally Posted by 80stech

Also if Oxygen sensor is reporting "Oxygen rich" it means that you are "fuel lean"

Actually the opposite of this. When you receive an O2 code for "too rich", it means that the FUEL content (un-burned) is higher than parameters set in the ECU to signal the condition.

I don't work much on the BMWs that I own. I'm older, not as "in need of performance" as I used to be, have enough modified (and occasionally) headaches already, and they're decent enough performing for my needs as "everyday cars". I have customers that I do minor work for one their BMWs (suspension, exhaust, intake, light electronics, etc.), but I'm not building engines/transmissions, nor doing hard coding on the DMEs.

I note that as a basis for my knowledge level on these cars, as is not as extensive as with other marques, yet a majority of the knowledge transfers over (some particulars as in BMWs DME code are where I'm not professing expertise).

I would research these two facts, but I'm pretty confident in them being correct.

1) The DME will reset both short-term, and long-term fuel trims (learned values in fuel adjustment from the base fuel mapping) if the power is removed (disconnect a battery, wait a little bit for the capacitors in the car to leak down voltage, then re-connect).

2) The E53s still use a 1 volt, narrow band sensor (as opposed to the newer cars with 5V wide band sensors).

That said, if you have a sacan tool that will allow you to read sensor values, I would warm the car up to operating temperature, shut it off, and reset the DME via the battery disconnect. Wait a few minutes for the capacitors to leak down, reconnect, start it, and read both front O2 sensor readings with your scan tool (Bank 1, Sensor 1 & Bank 2, Sensor 1---may be listed just as "B1S1 & B2S1" on your particular scan tool). Watch the values for a minute or two, and see if they're way off from one another in voltage (0.00 volts to 1.00 volts).

Then allow it to idle for 10-15 minutes to see what the Long Term Fuel Trim (or learned fuel trim percentage--the phrasing can differ per scan tool used) is, and then check the Short Term Fuel Trim (STFT) to see if it has settled down into the +/- 8% range.

This will give you a baseline to start with.

As others have mentioned, vacuum leaks, etc., can cause issues, however, that will typically cause a condition shown on BOTH banks at that point. If you can find the TSB on a working page that the gentleman above pointed out, I would also research that.

The above said, the "typical" things to cause one bank to be rich, and the other fine (using your baseline values above for comparison) are:

1) A bad/fouling spark plug.

2) Weak Coil on one/multiple cylinders (I've already dealt with this on my 60K mile 4.4)

3) Dirty/faulty injector. The spray pattern can go from "Mist" to "Stream" with very little dirt, and/or have the the injector never completely "seal" between pulses.

4) Valve seal leaking, and introducing oil into the cylinder

5) Weak compression in a cylinder/cylinders on that bank (valve seats, rings, etc.).

You'd probably notice a decent "oil burning" smell on those last two.

It's good that you swapped the O2s to start with, ruling out a bad sensor.

It's all just a matter of diagnostics/ruling out what *isn't* wrong to narrow the possibilities.

Do the easy stuff first.

Josh

[kevinkay]

THANK YOU.
again, (in my amateur logic), I keep questioning WHY I only get the error in the same bank

1) A bad/fouling spark plug. I swaped the spark plugs between banks

2) Weak Coil on one/multiple cylinders (I've already dealt with this on my 60K mile 4.4) I swapped the coils between banks

3) Dirty/faulty injector. The spray pattern can go from "Mist" to "Stream" with very little dirt, and/or have the the injector never completely "seal" between pulses. I swapped the injectors between banks

4) Valve seal leaking, and introducing oil into the cylinder
5) Weak compression in a cylinder/cylinders on that bank (valve seats, rings, etc.).
You'd probably notice a decent "oil burning" smell on those last two. MY FEAR, but no excessive oil consuption or smell, spark plugs looked basically all the same

It's good that you swapped the O2s to start with, ruling out a bad sensor. It all started after all O2 sensors were changed due to milage and a non service light error code telling me "insufficient heat output O2 sensor after cat bank 2 (the same bank I am having issues with)

It's all just a matter of diagnostics/ruling out what *isn't* wrong to narrow the possibilities.

Do the easy stuff first. "going to try and do a smoke test and WISH i see the "smoke signals"

My computer with diagnostic program mentioned to look for leaks between cat pre and cat post- dont see any and no change in exhaust sound. Am I correct that is the job of the catalytic converter - to burn up any fuel left in the exhaust?

The TSB does not include my year range - but much appreciated. The working link is:
http://www.bmwmotorsports.org/pdf/misc/120704.pdf

Thanks,
Kevin

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by kevinkay

THANK YOU.
again, (in my amateur logic), I keep questioning WHY I only get the error in the same bank

1) A bad/fouling spark plug. I swaped the spark plugs between banks

2) Weak Coil on one/multiple cylinders (I've already dealt with this on my 60K mile 4.4) I swapped the coils between banks

3) Dirty/faulty injector. The spray pattern can go from "Mist" to "Stream" with very little dirt, and/or have the the injector never completely "seal" between pulses. I swapped the injectors between banks

4) Valve seal leaking, and introducing oil into the cylinder
5) Weak compression in a cylinder/cylinders on that bank (valve seats, rings, etc.).
You'd probably notice a decent "oil burning" smell on those last two. MY FEAR, but no excessive oil consuption or smell, spark plugs looked basically all the same

It's good that you swapped the O2s to start with, ruling out a bad sensor. It all started after all O2 sensors were changed due to milage and a non service light error code telling me "insufficient heat output O2 sensor after cat bank 2 (the same bank I am having issues with)

It's all just a matter of diagnostics/ruling out what *isn't* wrong to narrow the possibilities.

Do the easy stuff first. "going to try and do a smoke test and WISH i see the "smoke signals"

My computer with diagnostic program mentioned to look for leaks between cat pre and cat post- dont see any and no change in exhaust sound. Am I correct that is the job of the catalytic converter - to burn up any fuel left in the exhaust?

The TSB does not include my year range - but much appreciated. The working link is:
http://www.bmwmotorsports.org/pdf/misc/120704.pdf

Thanks,
Kevin

The TSB is not for model year of your car, but when the car was produce and the DME used for that car. My X is listed as a 2001 X5 but it was produced in 2000. Was your X produce is 2004? You can check that info on the label on the door jamb.

[kevinkay]

mine was produced 7/04
if I am reading the TSB correctly its only up to 03 with my engine:
X5 with M54 (MS43) from 09/00 up to 09/03
but who knows.....maybe I got a left over DME!

Thanks!

[80stech]

The problem could still be electrical as well. How did you get rid of the o2 heater codes??

[kevinkay]

I replaced all of the O2 sensors when I first saw that "heater issue" and it was close to 100k. I was getting no "rich" code at that point.

When this issue along with a new non-OEM purge valve (solenoid issue) gave me Service light I replaced the purge valve with an OEM and replaced the new pre and post cat sensors (under Bosh 1 year warrantee).
when I pulled the 1 month old post sensor it looked sort of "charred" and I thought I found my issue - that it was defective, but the light/code returned.

also this morning, as the car warmed up (20 degree day), I thought I could hear a faint almost siren sound, cycling, almost like a scream ("help me")
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THANKS!