Uneven Brake Pad Wear

[srmmmm]

Originally Posted by StephenVA

Most of our vehicles need the seals in the caliper replaced at the 100k mark especially if your vehicle has not had proper brake fluid changes or has been subjected to years of use.

I've had the brake system flushed and refilled every 30,000 miles (which is 16 months for me) and never had any caliper issues. I inspect them for leaks with every tire rotation and haven't experienced any problem with them yet. I also run Akebono ceramic pads which are virtually dust free. The first set lasted 167,000 miles and my Brembo rotors have almost 250,000 miles on the Akebonos with no visible wear ridge yet.

2002 X5 3.0 314,600 miles
2014 428i 24,300 miles

2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles

1970 Firebird - under restoration

[BMW_E53]

Originally Posted by srmmmm

I've had the brake system flushed and refilled every 30,000 miles (which is 16 months for me) and never had any caliper issues. I inspect them for leaks with every tire rotation and haven't experienced any problem with them yet. I also run Akebono ceramic pads which are virtually dust free. The first set lasted 167,000 miles and my Brembo rotors have almost 250,000 miles on the Akebonos with no visible wear ridge yet.

2002 X5 3.0 314,600 miles
2014 428i 24,300 miles

2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles

1970 Firebird - under restoration

Thank you for the reply! My brake fluid is very old so I plan on flushing the whole system once I change the front pads! Too bad I don't have a power bleeder but I guess a two man bleed will have to do.

[StephenVA]

When you pull the wheels you should find your calipers were made by ATI so buy all those brand parts. They will save you 50-60% over supplied dealer parts which is the same brand difference box.
Example is the caliper guide pins Dealer $23. ATI PARTS $10.50.

When doing brakes at 100 k replace all the wear parts you will sleep better.
Pins, guide pin bushings (use a little armor all and they snap in), retaining clips.
Pull out the bleeder screws and clean the cavity.
You can clean out the piston bore with a green Scott brite pad and some brake cleaner. Check the piston and bore for scoring.