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  #1  
Old 02-21-2017, 09:59 PM
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Emergency assistance needed on rear suspension

All,

I removed a bolt that had a lot of tension on it. I cannot separate the two wishbones to get the bolt aligned to screw in. I tried a pry bar in every location. I removed the same bolt on the passenger side and was able to put it back without issue.

I got everything disconnected (upper and lower control arms and shock) and i cannot get this bolt in.

Anyone have any suggestions? The white arrow points to the part that needs to come down about an inch so I can get the bolt back in.
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  #2  
Old 02-21-2017, 10:52 PM
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Good day!! And it will be!!!

It looks like you are fighting the tension on the spring itself... Pull the spring out and the bolt should go in place without an issue... once we get that far, I'll help you get the spring back in...
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2002 E53 X5 4.6is (12-20-2001 build date) Imola Red exterior / M-texture interior (Red)
2003 E53 X5 4.4i (06-26-2003 build date) Silver exterior / Black interior (Silvester II)
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Old 02-21-2017, 10:57 PM
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yeah, take the spring out
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Old 02-21-2017, 11:51 PM
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Thanks for the replies guys. I really do appreciate it. How do I get the wishbones to drop down further in order to remove the spring?
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Old 02-21-2017, 11:54 PM
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I did see a couple bolts holding the sway bar to them. I did try to remove one of the nuts with a wrench but it was tight. I ran out of light to use my impact. Am I on the right track?
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Old 02-22-2017, 12:02 AM
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The way I did it when I converted my air ride to coils was to just drop the subframe slowly... ONE side at a time... Use the jack to hold things in place and remove, then replace five turns (or so) one bolt, and then the next on the same side... Let the sub-frame drop... Move to the other side... Do the same... Jack to hold in position... Now, this should be your problem side... Remove both bolts and lower jack SLOWLY!!! you will get to the point the spring won't have any pressure on it... Reinstall your bolt... Secure, but don't tighten... Lift jack enough to get the sub frame bolts in place...

NOW!!! Lesson learned at my house....... DO NOT GET THE BOLTS YOU PULL FROM THE SUB FRAME DIRTY!!! I got some slight trash on one of the bolts that caused the threads in the vehicle to bugger up... that was a catastrophic affect... it caused more damage, that caused more damage... I had to cut my bolt down to keep from the damaged area as I couldn't find a tap long enough to clean things up...

After you get the sub frame bolts started, (I put the jack under the diff and lifted the whole thing up to the vehicle...) Tighten the bolts by hand, then use the tools to tighten... If you feel resistance by hand, pull the bolt and clean with compressed air or whatever!!! then try again....

Then you are left finishing your project...
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2001 E53 X5 4.4i (03-07-2001 build date) White exterior / hellbeige interior (6MT swap vehicle - Manny)
2002 E53 X5 4.6is (12-20-2001 build date) Imola Red exterior / M-texture interior (Red)
2003 E53 X5 4.4i (06-26-2003 build date) Silver exterior / Black interior (Silvester II)
2008 Mini Cooper S ragtop (04-17-2008 build date) Dark Silver exterior / Gray interior ( Topless)
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  #7  
Old 02-22-2017, 12:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williamx5 View Post
The way I did it when I converted my air ride to coils was to just drop the subframe slowly... ONE side at a time... Use the jack to hold things in place and remove, then replace five turns (or so) one bolt, and then the next on the same side... Let the sub-frame drop... Move to the other side... Do the same... Jack to hold in position... Now, this should be your problem side... Remove both bolts and lower jack SLOWLY!!! you will get to the point the spring won't have any pressure on it... Reinstall your bolt... Secure, but don't tighten... Lift jack enough to get the sub frame bolts in place...

NOW!!! Lesson learned at my house....... DO NOT GET THE BOLTS YOU PULL FROM THE SUB FRAME DIRTY!!! I got some slight trash on one of the bolts that caused the threads in the vehicle to bugger up... that was a catastrophic affect... it caused more damage, that caused more damage... I had to cut my bolt down to keep from the damaged area as I couldn't find a tap long enough to clean things up...

After you get the sub frame bolts started, (I put the jack under the diff and lifted the whole thing up to the vehicle...) Tighten the bolts by hand, then use the tools to tighten... If you feel resistance by hand, pull the bolt and clean with compressed air or whatever!!! then try again....

Then you are left finishing your project...
When you say subframe bolts, are those the 4 that hold up the diff that have those huge bushings? If so, I did just change all 4 of those (bushings) 3 weeks ago.
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Old 02-22-2017, 12:13 AM
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Yep... You are essentially lowering everything away from the vehicle... the spring is in between them...

Oh, I did fail to mention you have to disconnect the shock from the lower control arm... My apologies for missing this step...
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2001 E53 X5 4.4i (03-07-2001 build date) White exterior / hellbeige interior (6MT swap vehicle - Manny)
2002 E53 X5 4.6is (12-20-2001 build date) Imola Red exterior / M-texture interior (Red)
2003 E53 X5 4.4i (06-26-2003 build date) Silver exterior / Black interior (Silvester II)
2008 Mini Cooper S ragtop (04-17-2008 build date) Dark Silver exterior / Gray interior ( Topless)
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  #9  
Old 02-22-2017, 12:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williamx5 View Post
Yep... You are essentially lowering everything away from the vehicle... the spring is in between them...

Oh, I did fail to mention you have to disconnect the shock from the lower control arm... My apologies for missing this step...
Yes, upper and lower control arms "and" shock is disconnected right now.
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Old 02-22-2017, 12:21 AM
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Since you are only trying to line things up, I don't think you need to pull the spring completely... Just get the other side loose, but holding... Then drop this problem side down enough that you can wiggle things in place... Once you get the bolts back in place, put the sub frame back in place and tightened down, then tighten down your hardware for the control arms...

Additionally, I think BMW likes to have compression on the suspension when you tighten control arms and such...
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2001 E53 X5 4.4i (03-07-2001 build date) White exterior / hellbeige interior (6MT swap vehicle - Manny)
2002 E53 X5 4.6is (12-20-2001 build date) Imola Red exterior / M-texture interior (Red)
2003 E53 X5 4.4i (06-26-2003 build date) Silver exterior / Black interior (Silvester II)
2008 Mini Cooper S ragtop (04-17-2008 build date) Dark Silver exterior / Gray interior ( Topless)
BMWCCA member (#4745)
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