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Old 02-25-2017, 02:14 PM
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Replace Bushings, or Complete Control Arms?

Okay, so the old girl is getting a bit noisy. Squeaking as she transverses speed bumps and driveways, especially when the wheels are turned.

At 186,000 miles, I suspect the stock suspension bushings are probably shot. Question is, its it better to just but a 'kit' of all the suspension arms with pre-installed bushings, or actually fit new bushings to the original arms.

I get that the arms themselves shouldn't need replacement, but since wrestling old bushings out can take some time, I'm wondering if the labor to replace the bushings is going to make up the difference, or even cost more.

I also wonder if it can be a DIY job to replace the arms, verses having to take it to a shop to replace the bushings (since I don't have a press). Thoughts?

I'm also not going to spend $3K on BMW parts, so any experience or thoughts with the following options (was thinking of taking the middle ground and going with the Meyle)?

BMW 20 Piece Control Arm Kit - Lemforder - $1007.99 (made in Italy)

BMW 20 Piece Control Arm Kit - Meyle - $877.99 (made in Turkey)

BMW 20 Piece Control Arm Kit - Karlyn
- $456.99 (made in China)

Thanks in Advance
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  #2  
Old 02-25-2017, 07:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Best4x4xFAR View Post
Okay, so the old girl is getting a bit noisy. Squeaking as she transverses speed bumps and driveways, especially when the wheels are turned.

At 186,000 miles, I suspect the stock suspension bushings are probably shot. Question is, its it better to just but a 'kit' of all the suspension arms with pre-installed bushings, or actually fit new bushings to the original arms.

I get that the arms themselves shouldn't need replacement, but since wrestling old bushings out can take some time, I'm wondering if the labor to replace the bushings is going to make up the difference, or even cost more.

I also wonder if it can be a DIY job to replace the arms, verses having to take it to a shop to replace the bushings (since I don't have a press). Thoughts?

I'm also not going to spend $3K on BMW parts, so any experience or thoughts with the following options (was thinking of taking the middle ground and going with the Meyle)?

BMW 20 Piece Control Arm Kit - Lemforder - $1007.99 (made in Italy)

BMW 20 Piece Control Arm Kit - Meyle - $877.99 (made in Turkey)

BMW 20 Piece Control Arm Kit - Karlyn
- $456.99 (made in China)

Thanks in Advance
Best bet quality wise is Lemforder
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  #3  
Old 02-25-2017, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Best4x4xFAR View Post
Okay, so the old girl is getting a bit noisy. Squeaking as she transverses speed bumps and driveways, especially when the wheels are turned.

At 186,000 miles, I suspect the stock suspension bushings are probably shot. Question is, its it better to just but a 'kit' of all the suspension arms with pre-installed bushings, or actually fit new bushings to the original arms.

I get that the arms themselves shouldn't need replacement, but since wrestling old bushings out can take some time, I'm wondering if the labor to replace the bushings is going to make up the difference, or even cost more.

I also wonder if it can be a DIY job to replace the arms, verses having to take it to a shop to replace the bushings (since I don't have a press). Thoughts?

I'm also not going to spend $3K on BMW parts, so any experience or thoughts with the following options (was thinking of taking the middle ground and going with the Meyle)?

BMW 20 Piece Control Arm Kit - Lemforder - $1007.99 (made in Italy)

BMW 20 Piece Control Arm Kit - Meyle - $877.99 (made in Turkey)

BMW 20 Piece Control Arm Kit - Karlyn
- $456.99 (made in China)

Thanks in Advance
I did my front end refresh using a combination of Lemforder and Myle parts. I didn't want to screw around with having to take the control arms in to have the bushing pressed in and out so I went with new control arms. I didn't replace the the tie rods as they seemed to still be in decent shape. It was around $500 in parts.

I replaced the rear parts as well as having new swing arm bushings installed. You can purchase the bushings. Paying to have them pressed out and new ones in was a hell a lot cheaper than the $500 apiece BMW wants for new swing arms since they don't sell the bushings. The bushings are tricky as they need to be compressed prior to being pressed in. You need a auto machine shop that knows what they're doing. I think that stuff was about $500 to $600 all Lemforder. You will also need to replace the rear ball joints. It takes a special tool. The universal ones they sell on line don't work work for the X5 even though they say they do. Had to purchase a $300 tool for that. You'll play hell trying to get the ball joints pressed out with the wheel carrier on the car without it. Once I got the right tool I had the ball joints out and in in 20 minutes. Figure I'll sell it after I finish doing the same work to the wife's X5.

I recommend also replacing the subframe bushings as they affect the quality of the ride and handling as well. Around $400 for those plus about $80 for the tool to remove and install them. Well worth $80. I can't imagine trying to get them out and in without it.

I also replaced the shocks and struts, which if you haven't done it before, is due. (You can rent strut spring compressors) You should purchase new upper mounts for these as well as new front spring bearings. They fall apart when you take things apart at this age. (started this "little" project with about 186,000 miles on the clock) About $600 to $700 with Sachs struts and shocks and Meyle or Lemforder other parts.

After having done all of that work the truck will need a good four wheel alignment. $125 here.

After I did all that my truck rides and handles like new. It feels amazing! Best of luck. PM me if you want any help or advice. I just finished and only had the Bentley manual and a few Youtube videos to guide me. While helpful there is a lot more to it than it seems. Not trying to discourage you at all. It just takes a while. But, when its done its very satisfying and you have a truck that rides and drives like new.
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Old 02-25-2017, 10:52 PM
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Buy new arms. You could have bad ball joints that never get replaced so replacing just the bushing is just half the job.

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  #5  
Old 02-26-2017, 10:39 AM
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Replace the control arms, the ball joints are worn out back at 100k. You got your money's worth of use out of them.
Lemforder are the OE VERSION on your application. If you like the feedback install them. The Meyle HD have a hardened bushing in the large end that provides a little more control and feeling. On the V8 it is the way to go. These arms are cheap and a easy install so switching them is a simple 2 hr with hand tools.
Either the Lemforder or the Meyle kits will perform a transformation over the original parts that gave up their life many miles ago.
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Last edited by StephenVA; 02-26-2017 at 10:55 AM.
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Old 02-26-2017, 11:16 AM
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My arms were changed by the PO and both look to be relatively new but I think due to their driving habits they destroyed one of the bushings before I took ownership. My route is to change the bushings out for Powerflex ones as NY roads really tear things up. Keeping the arms as they were done less than a year ago.
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Old 02-26-2017, 04:59 PM
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Replacing the bushing as mentioned is easy. Just make sure you pre load them before you torque them down
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Current Garage:
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2002 M5 TiSilver
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Former Garage Stable Highlights
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1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green
1971 Dart Sport, “Dart Light” package
1969 Road Runner 383
1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green
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Old 02-26-2017, 05:23 PM
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As noted, ensure you pre-load prior to tightening or they will fail fairly quickly. An easy way is, before you jack the front end up, measure the distance between the center of the wheel hub and the fender lip. When you are ready to tighten you can use a jack to raise the hub up to this same dimension for the pre-load.

The power flex bushings are going to pass a lot more "bad road" feel into the chassis and passengers. The energy has to go somewhere.
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Old 02-26-2017, 06:03 PM
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I used the Mayle kit for my 02 last year. No complaints so far.
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  #10  
Old 02-26-2017, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcp240z View Post
As noted, ensure you pre-load prior to tightening or they will fail fairly quickly. An easy way is, before you jack the front end up, measure the distance between the center of the wheel hub and the fender lip. When you are ready to tighten you can use a jack to raise the hub up to this same dimension for the pre-load.

The power flex bushings are going to pass a lot more "bad road" feel into the chassis and passengers. The energy has to go somewhere.
Wish that trick was written about 36 hours ago

But I did it the old school way and laid on the floor with the wrench and torque wrench and cranked

Very impressive difference with all new suspension gear in the front!

Will plan for the rear makeover maybe next month or April.

Mike
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