Well....the inevitable happened today....UPDATED - IT RUNS AGAIN....eventually!!!

[V8 00USH]

Thanks Semcoinc but that list came about an hour too late haha. It was useful to compare against though and I don't appear to have missed anything which is good.

Looks like I'm going to need to use another alternative for the Vanos repair kit as the import costs make it too expensive. Same with the locking tool that Danny used - I wanted to get that one (and not just because it was anodised red and looked fancy) but it looked easier to use too. Problem was with import costs it came in at around £200 more expensive than the kit I ended up getting.

This Vanos repair kit looks comparable though and the o rings are made from viton so I think I'll go with this.

BMW V8 M62TU M62 VANOS seals repair / upgrade kit - Range Rover, Land Rover v8 | eBay

[bcredliner]

Vanos info Beisan Systems

[V8 00USH]

Originally Posted by bcredliner

Vanos info Beisan Systems

Thanks for that. Very useful.

So the strip down started yesterday. I'm in absolutely no rush to complete this job since I've got another car to run round in for the time being.

So this is what the sound developed into after just over 100 miles or so.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oi57...ature=youtu.be

Not the best I'm sure you'll agree.

So let surgery begin...



Few pics to show just how dirty the engine currently is. Really want to give it all a proper good clean up during this job.






This is what I found when I removed the right hand bank valve cover.....hello guide piece you really shouldn't be there!





This piece of guide was very brittle as you can see in this video..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAa1oKDmAwQ

Got to this point and I'm glad I made the decision to do the valley pan gasket too....severe leaks here. Definitely where my coolant has been going recently.





...this is the stage I'm upto at the moment. I have removed both valve covers but rested them back in place for the time being in this pic.



I've also had a quote for all the parts required from BMW....needless to say I won't be getting them all from BMW since the price is over £1000 (circa 1200USD).....I'll probably get alot from Land Rover instead. Over here in the UK (perhaps abroad too?) They used the 4.4i variant of this engine in Range Rovers so parts are interchangeable between the manufacturers/engines.




Hopefully at the next visit I'll have the timing covers removed so I can check the timing hasn't slipped before I strip everything else apart.

Going to get the valve covers recoated - unsure what colour yet. Perhaps silver or crackle effect black. Also looking at removing useless the secondary air system too as part of this exercise.

Couple of comments so far which I'm sure others can relate to that have done this job......

1. Removing the oil level sensor and flywheel sensor cables is a fiddly job!
2. Main wiring harness gets in the way when you try and remove the inlet manifold. Used a bungee cord to keep it out the way as others have. I definitely think BMW could have designed that much better.
3. The washers that form part of the fittings that retain the valve covers have mind of their own and like to disappear either down the sides of the engine or in the centre of each bank if you're not careful.
4. The little black covers that conceal the coilpack cover retaining bolts are extremely well camouflaged and you wouldn't know they were there unless you knew what you were looking for.

More updates soon....

[jontezan]

+1 follower i finished this job on my -03 4.6 this winter. Good luck


Skickat från min iPhone med Tapatalk

[X5UK88]

Awesome, I'll pay you to do mine when you're done :p

[V8 00USH]

So unfortunately finding the time to carry on with the poor X5 has been very difficult of late. I've now got it more or less stripped down. Just a couple more parts to remove and clean up. I have spent a considerable amount of time cleaning everything...mainly the bay and around the engine/steering rack area etc because it was absolutely rotten. In hindsight maybe I should have just dropped the engine and box instead as it would have made cleaning much easier.

Ordered all the parts today - I only used a handful of genuine parts since I couldn't justify the cost of getting everything genuine - plus I got a little bit carried away with the 'whilst I'm there I might as well do that' syndrome too. Hopefully it will be worth it though in the long run and I shouldn't need to touch any of this again in my ownership.

I'll put a list up of all the parts & part numbers I purchased together with Land Rover cross reference part numbers too as it might helps UK people.

I think if I'd gone with genuine everything it would have ended up costing me around £1700 ($2150) - parts really are not cheap over here for this job.

I ended up spending near enough £1000 ($1300) on all parts, this also included the timing locking kit too though.

Some more notes to add with regards to the how the job is progressing which may help others when they come to do the job.

1. Dipstick - don't waste your time trying to remove it completely from the hole in the air conditioning mount - no matter what you try it doesnt seem to want to come out. Also...ensure that you drain the oil before removing the dipstick otherwise you'll have a large oil slick on your floor...yes like I did

2. The locking kit that locks the cams at the back is absolutely horrible to work with. Infact you can't really call it a locking kit because it doesnt really lock them at all. If you move either of the cams even slightly they start to raise out of position and as what happened with me popped out and thus rotated the cam out of the locking position. These caused me no end of issues and cast proper doubts on whether or not they are actually in the correct position or not. After triple checking however I do believe they are - only time will tell. I'm considering making a locking plate that bolts down to the head and goes over the top of them to hold them in place when I come to re-assemble everything.

3. If you do have guide failure before you do the job ensure that when you drop the sump to remove all the bits that you thoroughly check the oil pickup and also the small gap between the upper and lower and where the oil pump sits for stray pieces of guide. I fished out 3 small pieces from there.

4. The 'Jesus bolt' - I managed to snap the end off a breaker bar removing this bolt. If you can get a 3/4" socket/ratchet combo to undo this.

Anyway....few updated photos of where I'm currently at and what I've got upto.














...and this is currently how it stands...



I've also ordered these too....shame you won't be able to see them all that well either once they are fitted but still!



More updates soon with any luck as I am really missing driving it now!

[semcoinc]

Great progress V8 00USH

Looks like you narrowly dodged a bullet with the oil pickup being partially blocked. One more sizable bit of chain guide and that could have been a very bad engine day.

Wishing you continued success on your engine refurbishing journey!

Mike

[dannyzabolotny]

Excellent progress! I definitely hate the generic cam lock block tools... that's why I invested in the GAS timing tools. The GAS ones actually bolt down to the head, using the camshaft valve cover studs. It's far more secure than the flimsy lock blocks, especially when you have to torque the camshaft bolts to 92 ft/lbs and 81 ft/lbs.

Good call doing the valley pan as well. The extra labor is pretty minimal so it's definitely worth doing. I also did my OSV and some rubber lines for it, as they were all rotted and falling apart back there.

[V8 00USH]

Originally Posted by semcoinc

Looks like you narrowly dodged a bullet with the oil pickup being partially blocked. One more sizable bit of chain guide and that could have been a very bad engine day.

Yes Mike.....I think a narrowly dodged a few bullets in that the chain didn't jump any teeth and cause further engine damage as a result as well as potential oil starvation!! Hopefully this thread will make people realise what could potentially happen if left.

Originally Posted by dannyzabolotny

Good call doing the valley pan as well. The extra labor is pretty minimal so it's definitely worth doing. I also did my OSV and some rubber lines for it, as they were all rotted and falling apart back there.

Yes, I was already going to do it anyway as I always had that warm coolant smell when the engine was upto temperature and when I removed the inlet manifold I could see that it was leaking too. I've also ordered all new separator & breathers too. Be daft not to do these at the same time.

Not much to update except I removed the camchain tensioners and noted that on the banks 1-4 the tensioner wouldn't fully compress unlike the other side. These are getting replaced anyway. Also cleaned up some more gasket faces and removed the VANOS housings too.

Picked up some new (overpriced) parts from the local BMW dealership and now just waiting on the reminder of the parts being delivered from Germany before I can start reassembling. Taking my rocker covers and timing covers to a powdercoaters too this week to get them refreshed.

I also quickly fabbed up a couple of locking plates to lock the camblocks in place too.




Installed in place..

[dannyzabolotny]

Brilliant work with those cam block plates! That's definitely the biggest weakness of that style of timing tools and you've just about eliminated it. Good idea powdercoating the valve covers— they get so nasty with age. I did mine with my guides as well.

I'm really glad to see you're doing everything the right way and not cutting any corners You'll be rewarded with a smooth and wonderful engine for a pretty long time.

It'll sound absolutely terrifying when you start it initially though— the engine will be dry and the fuel trims will be completely messed up from the intake manifold being removed. It'll take about a minute for it to settle into a smooth idle which is definitely nerve-wracking for a first start. You'll also have a bit of a lifter tick for the first few minutes until you drive it. A freshly rebuilt M62tu can make some terrifying sounds, but after 15-20 minutes of driving it should sound quite nice.