A Simple Honest Question

[Qsilver7]

Here's my ditto...pile on...beat dead horse contribution.

If you hang out in front of the hospital everyday...then you're gonna see a lot of sick people...and may soon feel that everyone is dying! But how long have the staff (doctors, nurses, volunteers, etc) been working at the same hospital and are doing fine?

If you work in law enforcement/court system...you can become jaded into thinking that the world is all full of scum bags, theives, and degenerates...and loose hope in humanity.

Hanging around here is similar to hanging out around a hospital...must come here because they have a problem that they're trying to solve. But some of us (usually the regular posters that actually respond to posts) are not having issues...and either bought and maintained their BMWs, or shopped around for good examples and have gotten on a routine maintenance schedule...or found a project and brought her back to life.

If buying a used BMW...know that you may be getting a deal (as far as buy in price)...but even 10 years or more later...the vehicle is still a LUXURY vehicle and the cost of upkeep stays in that catagory. There's a lot of "extra" stuff that some brands/models don't have and are easier to maintain because they are simpler vehicles. The more "goodies" you add...the more it will cost to maintain that vehicle.

So yes, a 16 year old may be able to get into a formally $65K vehicle for $2500...but the cost of maintaining a 10-20 yr old used luxury vehicle is not for the faint of heart or heft of wallet or lack of mechanical experience or aptitude (especially if you're not a DIY'er or "hands-on" owner).

PPI's are a good start (pre-purchase inspection or post-purchase inspection) is highly recommended...from either a BMW dealership or good Indy. Even if the dealership's
"list" causes you to go into slight heart palpitations...at least you have an idea of the condition of the car. You can look at it multiple ways...run because it's more than you want to take on...or you can look at the things that need to be done immediately...determine if you can do them or if you'll need to pay to have it done...then look at the things you can put off to do later in the near future as you shop & collect the parts to do the work...and also know what maintenance/repair work that may be looming in the next few years. You may also be able to negotiate the price downward if the PPI reveals a lot of work needed. Again, its the best $100-$200 dollars you can spend...you'll know whether to walk away, run away, or buy.

[srmmmm]

I think I have one of the most complete repair summaries in the forum for a 3.0 model so here goes:

On a regular basis:

> Rotate tires, inspect pads & Rotors, CV boots, general lookover every 5000 miles
> Oil / Filter change every 8000 miles
> Brake fluid flush every 30,000 miles
> Replace belts and clean CCV every 100,000 miles
> Replace differential and transfer case fluid every 100,000 miles
> Replace sparkplugs every 120,000 miles
> Replace expansion tank, coolant and hoses every 150,000 miles
> Replace bake pads every 163,000 miles (Akebono ceramics)
> Replace rotors??? (241,000 miles on current Brembos)

My unplanned repairs have included:

> Front axles at 60,000 miles (Prior owner didn't maintain CV boots)
> FSR at 78,000 miles
> Two sparkplug coils and accessory belt tensioner at 124,000 miles
> Alternator at 126,000 miles
> Front driveshaft at 136,000 (used a salvage transfer case for cost savings)
> FSR (again) at 159,000 miles
> Thermostat and OFHG at 176,000 miles
> Rear differential seal at 200,000 miles
> Secondary air pump at 224,000 miles
> Rear suspension bushings and upper control arms at 242,000 miles
> Thermostat (again) at 245,000 miles - at least it was warranty this time
> Steering column double U-Joint shaft at 245,000 miles
> Valve cover gasket at 245,000 miles
> Both fuel tank sending units, fuel pump and canister at 245,000 miles
> Aux fan when the harness got chewed up in the mechanical fan and shorted out at 259,000 miles
> Pre-cat O2 sensors at 260,400 miles
> Water pump at 262,800 miles
> DISA Valve and MAF at 263,800 miles
> Thermostat (again) at 299,000 miles (don’t know what’s going on with these)
> Driver door handle carrier replaced a second time at 310,600 miles (thought they had these fixed finally)
> Intermediate accessory belt pulley at 310,600 miles
> Valve cover (not just the gasket) and oil filter housing gasket at 317,000 miles



The "Expected" replacements have been:

> All four window regulators
> Driver door handle carrier
> Front axle outer CV boots (each side one time)
> Front tension struts

All in all, except for the front driveshaft job that cost $4200, I have really been happy with the vehicle. It doesn't get babied, but I do monitor and maintain it. I think a lot of my good fortune is due to four things: I live in Texas with short winters so I don't have a lot of the CCV condensation problems, my daily commute is 60 miles so the engine oil always reaches full operating temperature, I run the "M" series viscosity engine oil from May through September when I my driving includes 3000 miles of towing a 1400 pound Waverunner and trailer, and I stick with Shell gasoline.

Additionally, I don't change the transmission fluid! I'm a firm believer in leaving it alone and simply installing a full re-manufactured transmission if it ever becomes necessary.

You'll have to pay a little closer attention to your cooling system and CCV because of your cooler temperatures, but a long life with these vehicles can be enjoyed!


And I have realized that each of my thermostat failures has occurred after a long period of idling (2-3 hours) in gridlock traffic during snow/ice storms here in Dallas. So I'm thinking that the thermostat is being "worked hard" electrically to restrict water flow to try and maintain the engine temperature and provide heat to the interior.



2002 X5 3.0 323,000 miles
2014 428i 27,000 miles


2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles


1970 Firebird - Under restoration

[jnclem]

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

Here's my ditto...pile on...beat dead horse contribution.

If you hang out in front of the hospital everyday...then you're gonna see a lot of sick people...and may soon feel that everyone is dying! But how long have the staff (doctors, nurses, volunteers, etc) been working at the same hospital and are doing fine?

If you work in law enforcement/court system...you can become jaded into thinking that the world is all full of scum bags, theives, and degenerates...and loose hope in humanity.

Hanging around here is similar to hanging out around a hospital...must come here because they have a problem that they're trying to solve. But some of us (usually the regular posters that actually respond to posts) are not having issues...and either bought and maintained their BMWs, or shopped around for good examples and have gotten on a routine maintenance schedule...or found a project and brought her back to life.

If buying a used BMW...know that you may be getting a deal (as far as buy in price)...but even 10 years or more later...the vehicle is still a LUXURY vehicle and the cost of upkeep stays in that catagory. There's a lot of "extra" stuff that some brands/models don't have and are easier to maintain because they are simpler vehicles. The more "goodies" you add...the more it will cost to maintain that vehicle.

So yes, a 16 year old may be able to get into a formally $65K vehicle for $2500...but the cost of maintaining a 10-20 yr old used luxury vehicle is not for the faint of heart or heft of wallet or lack of mechanical experience or aptitude (especially if you're not a DIY'er or "hands-on" owner).

PPI's are a good start (pre-purchase inspection or post-purchase inspection) is highly recommended...from either a BMW dealership or good Indy. Even if the dealership's
"list" causes you to go into slight heart palpitations...at least you have an idea of the condition of the car. You can look at it multiple ways...run because it's more than you want to take on...or you can look at the things that need to be done immediately...determine if you can do them or if you'll need to pay to have it done...then look at the things you can put off to do later in the near future as you shop & collect the parts to do the work...and also know what maintenance/repair work that may be looming in the next few years. You may also be able to negotiate the price downward if the PPI reveals a lot of work needed. Again, its the best $100-$200 dollars you can spend...you'll know whether to walk away, run away, or buy.

Great answer, thanks. I did have the vehicle inspected. It was after I bought it because I know the PO and his level of skill very well. The transmission in this one has no issues at all thus far, all of the drive train is very solid, and most of the other expected issues here have already been done, including the valley pan recently, and now the alternator. The only one I keep seeing that has not been addressed, or been a problem yet, is the timing guides. I'll keep that in mind and look into symptoms and repair. I would assume it would be a rattle at start up when the problem starts, but I'll check that out.

Thanks for all the great replies everyone.

[StephenVA]

with ALL of the above....