Got a Strange Instrument Cluster Problem - Page 2

BimmerM3inGA · #11 09-12-2017, 11:22 AM

When I originally posted this back in May, I pulled fuses #1, #43 and #45 and that seemed to take care of the problem. No issues at all until this morning. We were directly in the path of hurricane Irma and since I didn't know what the roads would be like, I wanted to take the X5 to work instead the i3 like I would normally.

I had to run a couple of errands on my way and everything was normal at first. Then I noticed the odometer section get brighter suddenly (the headlights were on, so it was dimmed). Then, when I made my first stop, the odometer section and the "P" remained lighted after turning off the key. "Here we go again" I thought to myself. I closed and locked the door, and came back a few minutes later to see the lights had turned off. I thought that maybe it had cleared itself up. Ha! No such luck.

When I started it back up, the cluster was completely dead. Nothing was working. So I pulled the fuses again - with the ignition off and then again with it on, then again with the engine running. It didn't work this time. No cluster function whatsoever.

So I went back home to switch cars before driving 40 miles to work. On the way, the cluster remained dead although the yellow ABS light was on and the needles would twitch occasionally. I also noticed that the turn signals and radio/MID weren't working.

The last time this happened, I was going to check all the grounds to see if one was loose, but the only location diagram I could find was for an E39 5-Series. Does anyone know where all the E53 grounds are? That's probably the first thing I should check.

Any other suggestions would be most welcomed!

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BimmerM3inGA · #12 06-04-2018, 10:00 PM

This problem is getting worse. Now the cluster fails within a few minutes of resetting it, and sometimes pulling the fuses doesn't work to reset it. It will just randomly begin to function again. I replaced the ignition switch hoping that would help, but it made no difference.

I'd really like to get this sorted out once and for all. Does anyone have any ideas for something else I could try?

amancuso · #13 06-04-2018, 10:28 PM

I guess you couldn't find/inspect all the grounds. It sounds power related since you said the radio also went inop.

80stech · #14 06-04-2018, 10:44 PM

You might check the cluster mounting screws to see if you have some in the wrong place and are shorting out a circuit board. This happened to me with my E30 which has a very similar cluster.

g300d · #15 06-05-2018, 09:14 AM

Post #11 reminds me of what happened to me in an E46. AC wouldnt work either.

General consensus I came across is that the cluster is toast.

Replaced it with a used cluster and everything working again, wound up with a tamper dot though. Didnt care at the time though

BimmerM3inGA · #16 06-05-2018, 09:16 AM

I checked all the grounds that I could find. There were a few under the rear floor around the battery, a couple under the hood, and one inside each front fender liner. There may be more, but I'd have to disassemble the entire car to find them. At this point, I'd be willing to do that if I knew where to look. I couldn't find any resource that describes the locations of all the grounds.

The radio problem has been resolved (I think). I installed a kit to bypass the internal transistors/amplifiers in the radio module and it's been working ever since. That leads me to believe the radio and cluster problems aren't related.

One thing I noticed: I also just replaced the fuel tank leak detection pump and had the car hooked up to DIS to clear the codes. DIS is very slow so the car was hooked up with the ignition on for about 20 minutes while it scanned all the modules. The cluster was working when I first hooked it up. When I got to the cluster diagnostics, it died again. I don't know if it was a coincidence, or the scan triggered the failure, but it went into full berserker mode. DIS reported a bus communication failure and couldn't scan the cluster. I backed out of the diagnostics, and ran a new scan. The cluster was still acting stupid, but the scan worked on the second attempt. I cleared the code and rescanned and no new codes were showing. All the while the cluster was looking like it does in the photos I attached to the first post. It stays that way when the key is turned off and removed. The only way to turn the cluster "off" is to pull the fuses. Which I did, and called it day because my wife came home with dinner.

If anyone wants to buy this thing and try to sort it out, I'll make you a hell of a deal. I've done a ton of engine and mechanical work to it, but I'm ready to do a mic drop on this one.

BimmerM3inGA · #17 06-05-2018, 09:16 AM

I checked all the grounds that I could find. There were a few under the rear floor around the battery, a couple under the hood, and one inside each front fender liner. There may be more, but I'd have to disassemble the entire car to find them. At this point, I'd be willing to do that if I knew where to look. I couldn't find any resource that describes the locations of all the grounds.

The radio problem has been resolved (I think). I installed a kit to bypass the internal transistors/amplifiers in the radio module and it's been working ever since. That leads me to believe the radio and cluster problems aren't related.

One thing I noticed: I also just replaced the fuel tank leak detection pump and had the car hooked up to DIS to clear the codes. DIS is very slow so the car was hooked up with the ignition on for about 20 minutes while it scanned all the modules. The cluster was working when I first hooked it up. When I got to the cluster diagnostics, it died again. I don't know if it was a coincidence, or the scan triggered the failure, but it went into full berserker mode. DIS reported a bus communication failure and couldn't scan the cluster. I backed out of the diagnostics, and ran a new scan. The cluster was still acting stupid, but the scan worked on the second attempt. I cleared the code and rescanned and no new codes were showing. All the while the cluster was looking like it does in the photos I attached to the first post. It stays that way when the key is turned off and removed. The only way to turn the cluster "off" is to pull the fuses. Which I did, and called it day because my wife came home with dinner.

If anyone wants to buy this thing and try to sort it out, I'll make you a hell of a deal. I've done a ton of engine and mechanical work to it, but I'm ready to do a mic drop on this one.

Mouse · #18 06-05-2018, 10:23 AM

I remember having this issue in my e39 but can't remember what the cause was. I do remember having weird electrical gremlins with low voltage though. Especially with the FSU going bad.

bcredliner · #19 06-05-2018, 12:10 PM

If there is a question about the state of the battery have it load tested at a local parts store. They will do a load test and check alternator output for free. BMW electronics are very sensitive to low or spikes of voltage.

Some of your symptoms sound like a bad ignition switch. It can cause lots of confusing symptoms though usually one of them is you turn the key and cluster goes black and it doesn't turn over.

Mouse · #20 06-05-2018, 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bcredliner

If there is a question about the state of the battery have it load tested at a local parts store. They will do a load test and check alternator output for free. BMW electronics are very sensitive to low or spikes of voltage.

Some of your symptoms sound like a bad ignition switch. It can cause lots of confusing symptoms though usually one of them is you turn the key and cluster goes black and it doesn't turn over.

That's what I forgot! I remember my bad ignition switch gave me some cluster issues on my e39.

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