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  #11  
Old 06-09-2017, 12:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StephenVA View Post
The plastic front facing under engine needs to be removed to access the belt drive. No need to remove the metal pan with the bolts that is being discussed above that is located further back under the transfer case.
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  #12  
Old 06-09-2017, 08:32 PM
kvc kvc is offline
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Thanks for all the replies and advice re removing only the plastic sump pan. Once the parts arrive from the US, I'll attack this job and hope there are no surprises along the way. There's a video on-line about this but in a 7 series car and he makes it look ohh so easy, but seems to have heaps more working space and does the job from the top....
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  #13  
Old 06-10-2017, 12:27 AM
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The job is very much doable by just removing the plastic under cover. Space is very tight and removing the fan assembly will make this cake. But again removing the fan creates risk of breaking the cooling system nipple if you're not careful - a disastor. In any case be patient and you will complete the job without removing the fan assembly as well.
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  #14  
Old 06-10-2017, 02:22 AM
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Originally Posted by kvc View Post
Hi all,
Recently, upon cold start, I noticed a slight squeaking noise in the engine bay. It settled down after about 1 minute, but the next time I used the vehicle (several days later) it seemed to be a bit louder and took longer to go away. These symptoms started about 6 weeks ago as a slight squeak, but more recently (yesterday) has become louder and continues now for a while (3 minutes or longer) before disappearing. I don't drive the X5 daily (once a week at the most) and this all started after I last serviced it and de-greased the engine with a spray pack and hosed it off. I assume it's one of the pulleys - a/c tensioner, accessories tensioner or idler. I won't know which one it is until I take everything apart and since the vehicle is 11 years old, I thought it may be time to replace all 3, along with fitting new belts while I'm in there.
I'm looking for a heads-up from anyone who's done this: hints, part numbers etc. 2006 N-62 with 149,000 kms on the clock.
Should I be addressing anything else while I have things apart, like maybe the water pump? The only component that's been replaced (to the best of my knowledge) is the alternator - everything else is original, so I believe.
I had planned to use my much loved X5 to visit family this week in the city (900 km round trip) but am apprehensive now, not knowing if this could result in me becoming stranded on the side of the road and I must travel in some remote areas with no mobile phone reception ... advice readily accepted and appreciated.
These are sealed bearing pulleys and idlers. I recently saw a YouTube video where a DIYer showed how to open and repack these bearing to quiet them.

Also, the BMW part prices are high at about $60 I think, while the exact same bearing can be had from Chrysler (Dodge - or whatever they want to be called these days) at about $18. The bearings are common across almost all makes yet the prices vary by car brand. I replaced all of mine about 3 years ago with the Chrysler units.

Check this post:

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...ensioners.html
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Last edited by blktoptrvl; 06-10-2017 at 02:32 AM.
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  #15  
Old 06-10-2017, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by X5only View Post
The job is very much doable by just removing the plastic under cover. Space is very tight and removing the fan assembly will make this cake. But again removing the fan creates risk of breaking the cooling system nipple if you're not careful - a disastor. In any case be patient and you will complete the job without removing the fan assembly as well.
Many thanks for the advice and tips. I'll attack the job from below and take my time. I'll try to document the process for the benefit of other members, as this is something that most owners will have to do at some stage I'm sure.
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  #16  
Old 06-10-2017, 06:26 PM
kvc kvc is offline
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Originally Posted by blktoptrvl View Post
These are sealed bearing pulleys and idlers. I recently saw a YouTube video where a DIYer showed how to open and repack these bearing to quiet them.

Also, the BMW part prices are high at about $60 I think, while the exact same bearing can be had from Chrysler (Dodge - or whatever they want to be called these days) at about $18. The bearings are common across almost all makes yet the prices vary by car brand. I replaced all of mine about 3 years ago with the Chrysler units.

Check this post:

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...ensioners.html
Wish this reply had come prior to ordering and paying for the pulleys from BMA. That said, at least I know the parts I've ordered (belts too) are all OEM and guaranteed to fit. Prices from BMA were very competitive compared to local suppliers, so I don't feel too bad about ordering from them and the fellow I dealt with (Patrick) was helpful and replied to all my queries very quickly. Suffice to say, I was impressed enough to deal with them again, if needs be.

It's good to know that these pulleys are common to many makes of cars, as I have other vehicles in the stable (Chrysler, Toyota, GM, VW) and no doubt will have to replace pulleys on these at some stage too. Thanks for the tip.
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  #17  
Old 06-24-2017, 02:28 AM
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An update on the pulleys replacement job...
So everything arrived two days ago from BMA in the US. Sadly, they sent two of the same tensioner pulleys (both for the a/c). Anyhow, after much swearing and a few grazed knuckles, I finally managed to remove the two tensioner pulleys. The idler pulley was, to but it bluntly, a real 'bitch' and required a friend's assistance with his oxy-acetelene torch. After numerous attempts removing the torx bolt, the head ended up becoming a bit rounded and the socket bit was just slipping off, so applying a bit of heat and giving the subject torx bolt a good whack on the edge, finally dislodged it and it was then easy to remove with fingers.
So closer inspection of the area revealed that the culprit causing the noise is in fact the water-pump bearing, as the pullet attached is easily wobbled around and not firm in any respect.
So now I'm up for a replacement water-pump. Not too difficult I hope but I'll definitely have to remove the fan assembly to make things easier (access is too limited). Any advice on this would be appreciated (what to be wary of).
I read on another post (E70 forum) that it's prudent to replace the thermostat at the same time, but with a lower value one (95C). I would be obliged if anyone could point me in the right direction - where I can get a good quality thermostat that's not going to trigger any fault codes. They're bloody expensive here in Oz - AU$273 for the standard one....
Something else I've discovered too FWIW - you must change the o-rings on the radiator hose fittings if they're removed as they shrink with time. Ordered a set from a US based eBay seller too.
Since I'm giving the beast a bit of a cooling system refresh, is there anything else I should consider while she's in my garage taking up valuable space?
TIA for your replies.
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